Picked up this a few weeks ago

blue water massey

Got this one for $150 bucks.
It's rough but the motor runs.
Have been rebuilding the front upper frame in my spare time.
will post picks once I finish that part.
Next will be brakes.

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BGW

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Dennisneri

cool truck looks like it has seen better days though

CharleyL

Finding rims that will fit for the front end is going to be difficult. The Cushman lug spacing is slightly different than what is standard today. You can find the right size rims fairly easily, but may need to have new alternate lug holes added at the correct spacing.

Steering ball joints, etc. are OEM automotive so the local auto parts store should be able to match what you have to what they have, although there is no cross reference to Cushman.

Brake wheel cylinders are the same as early 70's Ford F-100 pickups, except for an outer casting bump on the Ford part, but it can be ground off. The F-100 cylinder rebuild kits fit the Cushman cylinders.

The brake master cylinder is difficult to find at a reasonable price, but the same part is used in a forklift. I found my replacement master cylinder on the shelf at the local forklift repair shop for less than 1/2 of the Ebay price.

These brake systems use DOT3 brake fluid, which is alcohol based. Since the master cylinder is vented to the atmosphere, moisture from the air will combine with the alcohol in the brake fluid. Once a sufficient amount has been absorbed into the brake fluid, the brake system will begin rusting from the inside out. Since I could not find an un-vented master cylinder that would fit my 1987 truckster, I am resigned to replace the brake fluid every two years as a way of keeping the rust to a minimum. There is a silicone based brake fluid available that does not absorb moisture, but every bit of the DOT3 fluid has to be removed before it can be used since the two are not compatible.

I have parted out two of the OMC 22 hp engines. If you need anything that cannot be found new, I may be able to help.

www.directparts.com is likely the best source for parts now. OMC motor parts can also be be bought from www.denniscarpentercushman.com as well. You will be on your own to fabricate body parts though, since only the running gear parts are still available.

Charley

blue water massey

Thanks CharleyL I've read most of your replies on here and have 4 new wheel cyls on order from Rock auto $3.95 ea. the flex lines look ok. As to the master think I might go completly different and graft in an automotive master I love to create my own solutions.
Got the upper front supports fixed.
I used 1/4 " angle as It was on hand here and much stronger than the stamped steel Cushman used from the factory.
I have a running scrap 3 wheeler the main frame is totally rotted apart on it from the front spring mounts to the steering gear, and a previous owner grafted in (I think it's) an ezgo rear axle.
Ill be turning that into a tag behind trailer as it's only a non dump box.
Already robbed it of its starter and alt for this one.
All ready have two rims for the front that fit just need to get the tires onto them.
but I have 4 of the narrow rims that came off the wife's cushman executive and I might look at making them into a set of duels for the rear but will need longer lugs for that.
I was driving it around yesterday and I need to adjust the shifter linkages as both reverse and second gear only work if you hold the shifter forward.
As well as there's a mess of butchered up wiring that will need addressing.
But this is an other project for me to tinker with I love a challenge.
More pics and updates as they happen
I includes a pic of the wifes lil 36 volt executive.
The running gear in it was toast so it now sits on a Club car 36 volt frame that I modified to fit then painted it blue n cream as the industrial yellow is ugly.
I really need to take more picks of her cart as that is the only one I have.

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Mooncarter

interesting!

CharleyL

Just a few more tips,

If you go to www.sillylittlecars.com and click on "Manuals", then "Shop and maintenance manuals" it will take you to a list of manuals. The 826767 Supplement has the electrical information for many of the models being made in the 80's. Even if it doesn't show the correct manual for your model, there aren't many differences between models of that age, so one will at least be close to what you have. The Supplement also has the motor information for the OMC motors.

The Silly Little Cars website has many Cushman and Interceptor owner members, mostly from the San Francisco area, but the rest of us are scattered across the country. Joining their email list will get you the latest news that doesn't get posted to the website itself. There are bursts of activity every so often on the email list whenever someone asks a question or wants to sell something, etc. If you post to it, everyone on the list gets your post. Then they in turn will post replies, so everyone gets to see and share everything that is posted.

The only significant difference between the 18 and 22 hp motors is the cylinders. The 18 hp motors had cylinders with the spark plugs located below center. The 22 hp cylinders have the spark plugs located above center. The cylinders of these engines are both the same. The only difference is that the exhaust valves need to be located to the front of the engine and the intake valves to the rear of the engine. Both intake and exhaust valves are the same except that the exhaust valve should be stainless to handle higher temperatures.

OMC made a one cylinder version of this engine for one model of the Cushman Scooters. Again, everything is the same except one cylinder is missing. Same cylinder, valves, piston, rings, gaskets, etc.

The main 826767 manual is mostly body and chassis exploded diagrams and part numbers. It won't do you much good, since most of these parts are no longer available.

The model number can be found on a metal plate to the left of the steering wheel shaft. It's also stamped in the front bumper-like sheet metal above the left front wheel and can be sometimes found in other places on the body and chassis, but only on the metal plate left of the steering wheel will have the complete model number. The model number there will be a 6 digit number (which is what is found in other places too) sometimes followed by an alpha character (usually A) and then a dash followed my 4-8 more digital characters. The first two digits following the dash are the year of manufacture. My guess from looking at the pictures that you posted is that your Truckster was made in the mid to late 1980s.

Three wheel Cushman vehicles have VIN numbers and can be licensed for highway use as a 3 wheel motorcycle, since they were made mostly for the Police Meter Maids and highway use. The 4 wheel Cushmans were never intended for highway use, so do not have VIN numbers and cannot be licensed for highway use, but here in NC, the police consider them to be golf carts, which are allowed on secondary roads without a license or insurance, as long as they are being driven by a NC licensed driver. The NC traffic laws don't really cover these vehicles very well, so they kind of fall through the cracks in the law. If you decide to use your Cushman on the highway, be sure that the laws in your location allow it and you are in compliance. With that said, my Truckster has been almost 20 miles from home a few times. I've been waived at, and followed by the police, but never stopped.

Charley

Gearhead1956

Yep, now this will be a build we don't see every day!

Interesting, And I bet you can get it on the road with out a lot of $$$$

blue water massey

Good info Charley.
I didn't know about the email alerts on Silly little cars I may join.
I already down loaded and printed off all the manuals from there.
You raise an interesting point on the vin tags as my 91 3 wheel has no vin tag (has a vin # on the sticker)and this recent 87? 4 wheeler does have a steel one I'll take pics to show you later this weekend.
Up here in Ontario Canada I don't believe either can be licensed for the rd but don't know for sure.
I live 40 miles out on the dirt rds from any towns or police and this will be used in a 100 acre campground.
There is a store 2 miles away that I'll drive a cart to if the weather is nice
The only time I seen a cop when using the Club Car Carryall on the rd just waved at me as he went past.
No progress since Last post hoping to do some tomorrow if I can shift linkage a the E brake will give me some stopping power at least.

blue water massey

As I'm a pack rat of sorts it shouldn't cost to much to get it going.
so far I have most everything on hand.
The hydo pump was missing but have a 12 volt power pump from an RV that run the slide out mech, even has the correct fittings on it for the dump box.
By using it to run the dump I can work it without starting the motor.
I'll post more pics as progress continues.

CharleyL

Yes, please post the pics and comments on your progress.

My truckster has the triangle "Farm Vehicle" reflector on the back of my Truckster, headlights, tail and stop lights, and yellow flashing lights all around, plus rear view mirrors and safety belts, so I think it's considered to be one of the safer "farm vehicles" around here. It came with dual beam headlights, but only the low beams were wired up and no high-low switch either. I've now added the switch and wiring so I have both high and low beams now.

I have a 3 acre lawn/yard and about 1,600 ft of lake shoreline to maintain, so my main use for my truckster is to help me maintain all this. It would help if I could find a 2 speed differential for my truckster, since running it around doing the yard work requires a lot of "slipping the clutch" because low isn't quite low enough for off pavement use. I've been looking for a "basket case" Turf Truckster like you have to get the needed 2 speed differential and the hydraulics for my truckster, but I haven't found the right deal yet. The "stake body" bed on my truckster was built by the previous owner and does not dump. I made new stake fences and metal brackets for it, basically copying his design, but I used Trex plastic decking, planned down to 3/4" thickness, to build them so they will last out in the Weather. The bed itself is treated lumber and was still in good condition, so I just replaced the side and rear boards.

My #2 son is a certified welder and we share his metal shop and my wood shop, so some day I may succeed in getting him to help me make a metal dump bed for it. For now, what it has is doing what I need. My truckster has very little rust and what it does have is only surface rust that I'm working to clean up and get some paint on. The floor of the cab had the most rust, and it now has been cleaned up and painted with the rubberized truck bed liner paint, which seems to be holding up very well. Someday soon I hope to re-paint the cab and doors.

Charley