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Old 03-22-2014, 05:24 PM   #1
branman1971
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Default 1988 Cushman Truckster

I have this Truckster and I cannot get the motor to spin over by hand. I have soaked the top end to try to get it to break loose and I have had no luck so far. It will only spin over about 1/8 of a turn. So I pulled the valve covers and one side looks pretty bad. What's the next step to get the heads off so I can see the cylinders? I removed the nuts off of the rockers and the 2 bolts from underneath.


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Old 03-22-2014, 05:28 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1988 Cushman Truckster

Yes sir that looks pretty rough. Looks like you may need an overhaul.
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Old 03-22-2014, 06:56 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1988 Cushman Truckster

Wow, that looks bad. Was it in a flood?

The cylinder and cylinder head are all one piece on these engines, so the mounting point of the cylinder to the crank case is the only place that you can separate them and see the inside of the cylinder, well, that and through the spark plug hole.

You are going to have to un-rust and remove the rocker arm assembly (hold the ends toward each other with 2 fingers as you pull it off the 2 studs). Drop bolts or wire through the two stud holes through these pieces to keep the pieces together and that center spring from pushing the rockers and pieces off the ends of the shaft. You want all these pieces to remain in their respective positions.

There is a square plate with one bolt that holds the oil tube in that is located in the top center of your picture. This tube must be clear so it can supply oil to the rocker arms when the engine is running. Once this square plate has been removed you should be able to pull this tube out as it only has O rings holding it at both ends. With the rocker arms removed the 4 push rods should just slide out. The push rod tubes are also only held in by rubber O rings at both ends. On my motor it was easier to get these tubes out as the cylinder was being removed from the block,

The cylinders are held in place with the nuts and studs at the base of the finned part of the cylinder, so these must all be removed. To get the piston out of the cylinder on a non rusty engine it took a cylinder leak-down test kit. This is a hose with a male air line fitting on one end and a threaded piece on the other end with an O ring that screws into the spark plug hole. Air pressure is gradually applied to push the piston out of the cylinder. Great caution is required here because it usually doesn't require very much pressure to do this and because the cylinder can come off with explosive force if the pressure is increased more than just a few pounds before the piston moves. Be careful!!!

Once the cylinder has been removed you can unbolt the connecting rod from the crank case using a socket on a long extension with the crank shaft rotated to certain positions. You won't be able to access these bolts unless the crankshaft has been rotated to just the right position.

To put the engine back together you are going to need a ring compressor that allows you to open one side so you can slide it sideways off the piston. These ring compressors consist of a set of bands of different lengths and a special ratcheting pair of pliers that you use to pull the two ends of the band together just enough to squeeze the rings together enough so they slip into the bottom of the cylinder. Then the ratchet pliers are released and the band opened enough to unwrap it sideways from the piston.

I have an engine that's apart, so I'll try to post some pictures for you, but it may be Tuesday before I get the chance. I'll be out of town tomorrow and totally booked on Monday.

Do you have a parts and service manual? There are manuals on the www.sillylittlecars.com website in pdf form that you can download. The 826767 manual and it's supplement should be of great help. The supplement contains the engine re-build info with pictures and electrical schematics. The main part of the manual contains mostly part number information.

Good luck with that rust and don't hurt yourself when you blow the cylinder and piston apart, Use an air regulator set to zero psi and then gradually increase the air pressure. Lots of rags or blanket padding around the piston and cylinder will help contain the blast to the workbench.

Let me know when you need more help.

Charley
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Old 03-23-2014, 01:48 PM   #4
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Wow Charley I can't thank you enough. This is a great start. I will get the manuals you mentioned.


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Old 03-23-2014, 01:54 PM   #5
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I don't know if it was in a flood. They were owned by the Navy though. LOL. One thing I noticed was that when I spin the center bolt on the front in the middle of the fan the driveshaft did not spin and vice-versa. And the cart was in gear. Something broken maybe?


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Old 03-23-2014, 07:25 PM   #6
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Default Re: 1988 Cushman Truckster

When you spin the shaft on the front of the engine and the shaft on the back of the engine doesn't move? = Broken crank shaft,,,,unless you aren't actually looking at the output shaft of the engine. Attached directly behind the engine is the clutch and then the transmission. Are you certain that the shaft coming out of the engine that turns the clutch isn't turning?

These engines are very similar the old VW bug engines, except they are only 2 cylinder and American made. The crank shaft turns the flywheel on the front of the engine and the other end of the crank shaft turns the clutch on the rear of the engine. Both should move the same.

The visible damage in your pictures indicates to me that you will need to pull the engine out of the truckster and completely rebuild it. During the engine dis-assembly you will find all of the damage and be able decide what to fix or replace whatever is wrong. Parts are getting hard to find for these engines, so be careful and try not to break anything else while you are tearing it down. Mark or tag the parts for right side or left side or at least keep the parts for each side separate from each other and mark the pile for right or left. There are 2 different OMC engines used in these trucksters, an 18 hp and a 22 hp. The easy way to tell them apart is that the 18 hp has the spark plugs on the bottom of the cylinders and the 22 hp has the spark plugs on the top of the cylinders, however, many of the parts used in these two models are the same. As I understand it the pistons and cylinders are the only difference, but the crankshaft may also be different. Because of your truckster's age you should have a 22 hp engine in it, but it's possible that someone has replaced it with the older 18 hp engine. A quick check for the spark plug positions should answer this question.

My only experience has been gained by working on my 1987 truckster and a spare engine that I bought for it. Neither engine is running at this point and I have the spare engine apart and getting ready to clean and repair it. But I have experience rebuilding engines and transmissions including VW beetle engines before. So far I know that the right cylinder exhaust valve of my "spare" engine is broken, but everything else seems to be OK. So the very minimum will be a new valve, a light clean-up of the cylinders and new piston rings, new gaskets and seals.

The engine that's presently in my truckster had bad spark plug hole threads, so inserts had been installed to repair the spark plug threads. The insert on the right cylinder has failed, burning a hole out through the cylinder next to it. This cylinder is trash Ind I'm looking for a replacement for it. So when the spare engine is back together and running, I'll be pulling this engine out to rebuild it, if I can find a cylinder for it.

If you want to see pictures of my truckster, do a search for "Truckster saved from the forest" and you find the link with the pictures of it. As you rebuild your truckster take pictures of your progress and post them here. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you need help. There are several of us on here with truckster experience that are willing to help others and the more who can do this the better. We can all learn from each other.

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Old 03-23-2014, 10:29 PM   #7
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Didn't even think of that Charley, about the output shaft spinning. I was looking at the drive shaft only. I will check that tomorrow. It's the 22hp motor and I agree it would be better to pull the motor out completely. I also have a second truck with motor but it's missing gauge cluster and a few other things. Guess I can start pulling the motor this week. Thanks again Charley. You helped me tremendously.


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Old 03-25-2014, 05:08 PM   #8
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Default Re: 1988 Cushman Truckster

I downloaded those manuals. Usually you gotta pay for something like that. Got familiar with the parts that I didn't know real well and removed all hoses and wiring from motor. I start the hardware removal tonight. There are a TON of parts for this thing on eBay. Here we go.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:59 PM   #9
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Default Re: 1988 Cushman Truckster

Try to avoid Ebay where possible. I found many parts that I needed locally for less money than ebay, but motor parts (gaskets and O rings) came from Directparts.com. Brake shoes were $10 each and the master cylinder was $41 off the shelf at the local forklift repair shop (some forklifts use the same parts). They were also able to order the parts that I needed for my Keihin carburetor. I got a starter solenoid, flexible brake line, tail light lense, fuel and air filters, ball joints from ORiley Auto Parts, because one guy at the counter had been in the auto parts business for many years and recognzed what I brought him. Tires and tubes from Northern Equipment, etc. Usually you need to take your old part in for them to see it, and then they guy behind the counter needs to have been there for many years because there is no cross reference for Cushman to what's on his shelf. The guy has to recognize it and know where on his shelf that something like it exists, then go get it and compare it to what you brought in. Cushman made the frame and body parts, OMC designed and built the engines that we have, but much of the rest of the trucksters are standard automotive parts that were bought from the auto parts market. The only problem is finding the right part when a Cushman / Automotive cross reference doesn't exist.

You might want to consider joining Sillylittlecars. Many members have Cushman Trucksters, but most are 3 wheel. The group started in San Francisco and the website creator lives there, but there are many members from all over the US now. Be sure to sign up for the e-mail list because that is where most of the activity is. When we post to the e-mail list a copy of our post and the replies to it goes to everyone on the list.

Many of the members have moved up to GO-4 Interceptors, the vehicles that have been used by the metermaids since Cushman began falling on hard times and then were bought out by EZGO in the early 2000's., but there is still a strong Cushman following there too.

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Old 03-25-2014, 07:16 PM   #10
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Default Re: 1988 Cushman Truckster

Branman1971 I just sent you a PM (Private Message). Look for it at the top right of your screen.

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