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Gas golf carts Harley Davidson, Melex, Pargo, Taylor-Dunn and other Misc. Carts.



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Old 04-06-2014, 04:34 PM   #1
Toolmiester
Not Yet Wild
Cushman
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Huntley IL
Posts: 7
Default New Rings for Cushman?

Today I changed the oil on the Cushman, which has been running like crap since I bought it. After reading a few other threads on here I know this....I doubt the correct oil was used before, the guy I bought it from did not have any manuals. The old oil was like water, I put 30 wt in it I think the old stuff was 10W30. Someone posted that there was a "T" on the fuel line and check it for cracks as that will make the motor run poorly to the point of using the choke all the time. I have that problem, the oil did smell like gas, but I can't find this "T" that is talked about. Does anyone know how many PSI the cylinders should have for compression? Mine had just under 90, I suspect rings. Next weekend I will check timing.
On another note, I saw some pictures of guys that had sone really cool looking stacks behind the cab of their Cushmans. Does anyone know if those are available for retail or do you have to fabricate them?



Pat
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:08 PM   #2
junkandcattle
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Cushman
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Missouri
Posts: 40
Default Re: New Rings for Cushman?

Manual says 100 . There are a couple of OMC proficient members that could be of more help but you also check the valve settings my cushman suffered from several bad adjustments. Look at your fuel filter if there is a return line present it has three barbs for connections instead of just an inlet and outlet. Did the oil smell of gas? Was it overfull indicating fuel in the oil ? The choke to run sounds like dirt in the carb to me You can still download for free the service manual
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:20 PM   #3
Toolmiester
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Cushman
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Huntley IL
Posts: 7
Default Re: New Rings for Cushman?

Junk the fuel line does not have 3 barbs just an in and out. The oil was not overfull, and yes it did smell like gas. The plugs were at the wrong gap and really fouled with oil. I replaced the plugs and set the gap at .025. It does run better than it did, but still crappy. Next weekend I'll check the timing and the point gap.

Pat
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:48 PM   #4
junkandcattle
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Cushman
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Missouri
Posts: 40
Default Re: New Rings for Cushman?

They have a reputation for the mechanical fuel pump bolted to side of the timer leaking into the crankcase. some of these also had an electric pump located close to the fuel tank also needle valve in carb can let fuel by but that should have raised the oil level.
I understand the 18hp had plugs on the bottom and tended to foul more often than the 22hp that were on top Good luck if they dont join in look at some of the posts by DEWZER AND CHARLEYL
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:54 PM   #5
Toolmiester
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Cushman
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Huntley IL
Posts: 7
Default Re: New Rings for Cushman?

Thanks again Junk....Looks like mechanical fuel pump on this one, and yes plugs on the bottom which are just a pleasure to get at. It's a good thing I've got several jacks and stands, what were they thinking. I'll call Napa tomorrow and see if they can get a fuel pump and how much.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:56 PM   #6
junkandcattle
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Cushman
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Missouri
Posts: 40
Default Re: New Rings for Cushman?

I just realized they were probably referring to the hard rubber intake tee that links the manifolds they can crack giving major vacuum problems iF YOU ADD AN ELECTRIC 2-4 PSI NEAR THE TANK. SORRY I DONT KNOW HOW TO CHECK THE MECHANICAL PUMP OTHER THAN TO LOOK AT THE DIAPHRAM. AT DIFFERENT TIMES I HAVE SEEN FUEL PUMPS LISTED ON EBAY BY THE SAME FOLKS I GOT SOME GASKETS POINTS ETC FROM. I THINK I WOULD USE A LITTLE ETHER TO CHECK THE INTAKE TEE LIKE LOOKING FOR A VACUUM LEAK
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Old 04-07-2014, 03:27 PM   #7
CharleyL
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Cushman
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Central North Carolina
Posts: 526
Default Re: New Rings for Cushman?

The best things that I did to make my Cushman run right was to replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric fuel pump, clean and re-line the fuel tank, and re-build the carburetor by changing all of the rubber parts and the float. Since the electric fuel pump pressure is self regulating there is no need for the bypass filter, so my fuel pump now feeds directly to the carburetor. You can buy the fuel tank cleaning and re-lining kit from KBS coatings directly or through Amazon. It consists of a strong detergent that removes the loose rust from inside the tank and then a special epoxy type paint to coat and seal the inside of the tank. I bought my Keihin carburetor parts from the local forklift dealer (special order), and the electric fuel pump from ORiley Auto Parts. Electrical hook-up for the fuel pump is very easy. Just connect the black wire to the Truckster frame and the red wire to the ignition key switch so it gets power whenever the key switch is on. You can completely remove the old mechanical fuel pump if you make a flat plate and gasket the same size to cover the hole where the mechanical fuel pump was removed. A piece of 1/16 or 1/8" steel cut to size and 2 holes is all that is needed. No other mechanical changes are necessary. The arm on the mechanical fuel pump rides on a cam inside and below the timer through this hole. Nothing needs to change inside the engine. Just cap the hole with a plate and gasket and you are finished with the mechanical part.

Charley
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