1971 Model D 3-wheeler won't start

Snyds

This is a continuation of the thread: 1971 Harley Davidson Model D - 3 wheeler.

Per the recommendation of a response from the original thread I put some fuel in the cylinder and was able to get it running somewhat for a few seconds.

OK it’s not getting fuel. Progress! The pump/carb probably needs to be cleaned and primed. OK Fine.

I can see where the fuel line connects to the pump/carb, but how do you get to it?

I’ve taken the air filter and cover off but didn’t gain much access. Dose the base of the air cleaner (where the cover mounts) need to be removed? It’s still right in near the clutch/pully’s.

Is there method to get better access to the carb? From the beneath?

Thanks again for your patients,
Snyds

BGW

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johnny reb

disconnect the battery. remove the starter/ generator (i keep the wires connected just move it aside) remove air cleaner and unhook the choke and accelerator. remove the 4 nuts 1/2 inch wrench i think then gently remove carb inlet assy. note the rubber gasket and then carefully take carb out. dont damage the gasket. note on the back side of the carb is the piece going to reed plate assy. once you get the carb out take the plastic fuel inlet off via a slotted screwdriver you will then see the strainer. i bet it is full of gunk. google harley golf cart shop manual there are some on this site i just cant remember where without googleing it

johnny reb

lets see if this works if no attachment then it didnt

Snyds

Thanks, I appreciate being able to know just what to remove and how. Not sure when I'll be able to work on it, but I've already printed your instructions out.

I did not see or find any attachment, perhaps there was none.

Snyds

tew45

Ckeck here! www.buggiesgonewild.com/columbia-parcars

Snyds

I was able to remove the carb and clean the screen. It didn't seem dirty or clogged. After reassembly I still wasn't able to get the engine started.

Any other suggestions before I look up a repair shop.

Speaking of repair shops, any negative issues with Fairway Golf Cars in Cary IL?

Thanks all,
Snyds

Snyds

Bad news!!

I called the Fairway Golf Cars repair shop and spoke to someone who suggested placing a little plain motor oil in the cylinder. If it then starts, the engine has no/poor compression. Evidently the oil temporally improves the seal between the piston and cylinder wall.

It did just that, it ran for a few seconds.

What are my options now? Would replacement piston, rings, cylinder be an option?

I do not want to spend a lot of money on this. I'm not a gear-head, I don’t golf, it’s more of a novelty thing.

Thanks.

Snyds

What should the compression be?

I've down loaded the service manual. Section/chapter 3 is Engine, page 3-1 is the Engine Specifications. Seems that only clearances/tolerances are listed. I could find nothing regarding cylinder compression level.

A friend is going to lend me a compression tester. What should the compression be? What would indicate a poor compression poor/bad level?

Thanks again.

tew45

Compression should be 85psi to 95 psi .

73eldo

A fresh broke in engine will be over 100, possibly as high as 125. Many have reported good running engines in the 80-90 range. Some have reported still running in the 75 range but they don't appear to run well that low.

Also check it both directions. For some reason there is a difference in how they wear in the different directions. When its fresh and tight the readings will be almost identical but as they wear the spread gets much wider so its a good indicator of how much wear is or isn't going on.