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HDGC5-0

So here is The Beast! I've been told it's a 1974 HD that has an unknown make/model 4 wheeler front suspension grafted to the original HD frame. The whole cart has been lifted and sits about 16" off the ground. It currently has the original HD engine which is toast. I'm looking to repower it, however I will loose my reverse gear since this motor actually spins backward to make the cart back up. My future plans include adding some kind of a roll cage with a roof just so I can add a canvas enclosure, an upgraded seat, seatbelts, a 2" receiver hitch and better lights. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

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73eldo

The front body looks like Harley but sounds like the few other remaining Harley parts will be leaving soon.

I believe most of the gas carts in that era reversed for reverse. I think the early 60's Harley was an oddball in that it had a gearbox. Cushman I would imagine also would have had a gearbox option since they also made utility type stuff.

backyard

Do you know what's wrong with the HD engine?

73eldo

I would guess if it did run it would be a dog to get and keep moving with the larger tires.

HDGC5-0

What's wrong with it...
1. Fuel pump will no longer pull fuel from the gas tank. When it did, you would have to manipulate the choke constantly to keep the engine running. When I say manipulate, I mean you'd have to find the "sweet spot" and hold it there. The choke would not hold in that position, so you'd have to hold it with one hand and steer with the other. This would all have to be done while holding on for dear life as this thing is very quick, despite the huge tires. The engine will will run when sprayed with starting fluid, so now you just have to spray/steer/hold on...not fun!

2. The parking brake will not lock. It may just need to be adjusted, but at this point, you had better find some flat ground in the general vicinity of where you want to park it.

The motor is somewhat strong and has 85 p.s.i. But I think the crank case seals are probably toast. I was planning on pulling the motor and replacing it with an 18hp 4 stroke Duramax. That plan is on hold at this point. I think the new direction is to replace the rings and crankcase seals and fix the fuel pump or add an electric fuel pump and see where that puts us. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Lochlin

You get that motor running right it should pull you around just fine. For sure, it will never be a Bad Boy Buggy but, so long as you aren't going nuts with it, you'll do fine.

I am huge on electric fuel pump conversions. Don't get me wrong, the vacuum ones work well when they are in good shape. I just like the consistency and "sure thing" associated with the electric pumps. When the circuit activates your get a consistent flow of gas. Plus, they themselves serve as a backflow preventer so you don't have to worry about the check valve in the tank. Either way you go, I am betting that when you get that fuel issue worked out you'll have a nice running cart.

I am not sure I would mess with crankcase seals until you get the other stuff done. Now, when I say crankcase seals I am talking about the paper gaskets between the two halves of the crankcase. Those don't go bad all that often, in my experience anyway. If you are talking about the crankshaft seals (oil seals in the manual) those go bad more regularly.

85 psi is pretty good. Not sure I would do the rings BUT a lot of guys go with oversize pistons and rings to get a bit more ooomph. You could go that route.

You could consider a different carb too but on the pre-Columbia carts this is a bit of a challenge as, as I recall, the mounting bolts are vertical rather than horizontal on the earlier carts.

tew45

85 PSI is Ideal compression so the other problems are probably fuel related and can be remedied fairly easily. The crank seals go bad I think compression goes with it but I am not sure about that. If the crank seals go bad you will not get fuel delivery and transfer.

73eldo

Crank seals won't effect compression readings.

85 ideal? I would say 85 is getting close to the point where its not going to run right and be way down on power.

You should also take a reading in both directions. For some reason they wear differently so how much difference there is can be an indicator of 'miles' vs abuse. Closer good numbers would mean things are good. Close bad numbers wound indicate some major mechanical issue like burnt rings or scored cylinder walls. A wide spread would be lots of use.

tew45

Please take this with a grain of salt and do not be offended when I disagree but I have found (after a 15 year association with HD carts). that compression will be roughly 85PSI when new rings are fitted and 90 when seated. These are not iron clad for gauges read differently and ratios vary some. The reason compression varies with new rings is that they are not seated enough to compensate for the difference in cranking speed from forward to reverse.When rings seat the compression will be approximately the same in forward or reverse. Most of my cart top end reworks have seen engines run with compression as low as 65PSI compression and have to be ran backwards due to faster cranking speed. When compression is very low the faster cranking speed will start it due to a little more compression. Some time compression will not be there because the engine is loop scavenged and the transfer of fuel and air will go out of the crank seals and not to the combustion chamber (this may not be true in a lot of cases) but compression for all practical purposes will be very low due to no or low crankcase pressure. Sorry about the long winded vent bit I just wanted to convey my experiences which you may disagree with and still I could be "out of the park" on this matter. Just my experience as I see it!

73eldo

I suppose another thing that should be said is a basic compression test is a fairly crude test with a lot of variables. On a multi cylinder engine you are really looking for similar readings between cylinders more than an actual number. With a single cylinder we don't have much to compare the reading to. Another big variable these days is also the quality of the tools. Lots of crap out there now.

Fresh engines you are seeing the same reading F and R? I would think you would.

I'm not quite grasping how crank seals would have effect on a compression test. The crankcase volume is much larger than the cylinder so we are not talking about a lot of pressure so even bad seals there is not going to be a big loss. We also should be testing wide open throttle so there should be minimal restriction of incoming so it should be getting a pretty good gulp of air so even if a little was lost through seals I would not think it would have a huge effect on readings.

I'm also thinking that even worn seals are going to do a better job of keeping pressure in vs keeping outside air out.