Harley Davidson point ignition system

tew45

The standard point ignition system design has been relative unchanged since Fords A Model. It is a breaker point set, condenser. and High voltage coil. And in multi cylinder use a distributer. The only other I can think of is the wasted spark system used on twin Harley motorcycles. The start of the old wives tale about auto coils not lasting came from a design change in the point system around the mid 1960's I'm sure most of you were working on cars then! The change was in the coil. The coil was changed to a 9 volt coil (around that voltage I'm not sure) And they put a ballast resistor in series with the 12 volts to the coil so it would work on 12 volts. Why? Do you ask. I'll tell you.
A car starter uses a lot of current while starting and will drop battery voltage down maybe to as low as 9 volts so!!! Some smart engineer decided that if he used the coil bypassing the ballast resistor while starting, the low battery voltage on the 9 volt coil would still give a hot spark for starting then when the start key is released to the run position the resistor is switched into the coil circuit and the 12 volts is to a 12 volt resistor / coil circuit. This system worked very well when the car was cold or any other time the car would be hard to start.
Now You can use any 12 volt ignition coil on any cart using the standard point system. The 9 volt coil can also be used on the same carts as long as you use a series ballast resistor to the coil. Now here is where the idea that you could not use these coils on a golf cart cane to be. If you use the 9 volt coil without the ballast resistor it will burn up in a few minutes.
I was stranded with a bad coil about a mile from home and the only coil I could find was a 9 volt so I used it to get home on. It got me home but it would not have gone much farther. I went to a local auto parts and bought a $5.00 ballast resistor and used a Nipondinso coil from a 74 Toyota. Still working and will for a long time. So, I lied when I said I would be brief. I also have information on regulators and points if it is needed.
I am not telling you not to use new and quality parts but what will work for I have seen coils from $15.00 to $60.00 I have lived way too long to waste cash on things other than Miller draft, Jack Daniels And Merlot which I only use at bedtime to ease my aching body.
OK I will not use the word brief again!

BGW

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rrwayside

Can you shed any light on point gap and timing {how to }for an early 70's hd three wheeler?Thanks Riich

tew45

Timing must be set in reverse as well as forward. There are timing marks on the flywheel for forward and reverse. Set the points at .020 to .022. Then look through the hole in the cooling shroud just under the coil and slightly rearward. Rotate the engine until the timing mark is seen (25 degrees before or after TDC). When the mark is found turn the point plate to set the points to just open. Then turn the flywheel past TDC to the other timing mark and the points should be beginning to just open. If the point opening is equal before and after TDC and the points are at .020 thye job is complete. If the points do not open equally before and after TDC adjust the point plate to accomplish this. Then re-check the point opening. If both settings are correct it should run like a scalded dog! If you need a photo of the flywheel with these points marked ask and I will send one as soon as I figure out how!

tew45

Here is a link to the Harley flywheel photo with TDC and timing dimples marked.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...imingmarks.jpg

timmark

im having a heck of a time getting the timing perfect on my 73 harley four wheeler??im just not getting it lol, any instructions from begining to the end simplified would greatly reduce my frustration level

tew45

The simplest way is to think that you have 2 engines....one turns one direction and the 2nd engine turns the other direction. Adjust the points to .022, now think that the points have to open at the same time before top dead center on each engine. the point plate adjusts that. Turn the flywheel to near bottom dead center not turn the fly wheel towards top dead center in the clockwise direction until 25 degrees or so you will see the fly wheel marker in the window in the cover. The points should just open there. Now turn the fly wheel to bottom dead center again and now turn the fly wheel counter clockwise to 25 degrees before TDC and the points should just open there. Again the point plate has to be adjusted for the points to open at the same time in each direction. Recheck the point opening at the dimple in the flywheel on each side of TDC.

timmark

Thats an extremely simple way to look at it...im going to give it another shot and hopefully get it nailed down, thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question!!!!

ckiguy

tony... i can see you! you shirt gives you away!

look at the photos you attached!

tew45

I thought I just sent one photo but you can see a good hog hunter in the photos!

johnny reb

one thing i do before i time points is take a flat screwdriver and stick it in the timing hole. turn the motor the screwdriver cleans the rust and leaves the rust in the dimples. it eases the process