New 1974 HD cart

tew45

I have bought a 1974 HD cart. It runs but not good. I want you guys to help fix it and see who can put a finger on the problem. It may have several problems so here is the way it runs. So far: new gas 1 1/2 ounces oil to 1 gal of gas. Belts good Muffler good Compression 85 PSI forward and reverse New points Timed correctly forward and reverse Old coil old condenser When gas tank is full carburetor floods when left overnight Carb will not flood when tank half full (fuel level lower than carb) Just a little choke will kill it. Speed 5 to 10 MPH (5 MPH usually) No power Spark plug very brown (not black) Motor seems to bang out and not reach higher RPM Supposedly the carb was rebuilt with a kit before I got it.
Now I will do any procedure or check what you guys recommend. I will see who can pin point the problem. I also will report back after each procedure done and give any changes in performance.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

Train Wreck

Had it been sitting for a long time prior to you purchasing it? Almost sounds as if I would go through the carb again because everything else sounds ok. Is the check valve in the tank functioning properly and is the take vent functional?

tew45

The 74 has a metal tank and the gas feed is on the bottom of the tank. I don't believe it has a check valve. I bought it in May and it has just been delivered. I understood that it had been ran on occasion but the battery was bad so I suspect that it has been sitting for a while. OK I will go through the carburetor this week end and report results.

chuckbaynham

Seems to me the gas is getting past the needle and seat so the carb is the likely cause. Certainly no expert on 2 stroke carbs without a float bowl but the needle and seat should stop the flow in a non run static condition.

tew45

Since this is a new cart to me and I expected many troubles, I thought I would give you a chance to help troubleshoot. The first hint was the touchy choke. I checked it and it was running about 1/3 closed. You are right about the carb. I haven't checked it yet but it still does not seem right. I expect the metering valve to be off some. Also the belt measures 1 1/8 inch. That will make some difference. The clutch with the belt installed still moves about 1/8 inches back and forth. (too much play). I will have to machine 3 new nuts that hold the cover on. The studs are partially stripped so maybe new tighter nuts will hold.

Train Wreck

Hey tew how wide is the belt supposed to be? My belt goes back and forth as well and I have played with the spacers on the crankshaft and it really seems to make no difference. I can jack one wheel up and run it wide open and the belt will ride to the top as it should. Do I need to do something different? Thanks

tew45

The belt should be 1 3/16 wide and the clutch should be open just as wide. I am going to have to get all new bushings or a used assembly somewhere. I haven't inspected it for the smaller bushings and since it is a 74 they were making changes then so I will have to really check it out good. Any suggestions are welcome!

tew45

Update: The engine seems to be in good condition except the carb is not up to peak performance still it is not too bad. The clutches seem to be the problems. I will repair the clutches and see what or which will help speed and operation the most!

tew45

I still haven't got into the carb but I did replace the driven clutch sliding flange. The speed did increase to almost maximum. The belt really needs to be replaced and the primary clutch needs attention. It is getting there. The seats need to be upholstered and a top sewn. I will get the speed and mechanical components up to par first.

tew45

I ran the clutch dry for a while to be sure what the symptoms of a dry clutch was. The clutch running dry did not affect the speed but after I added the oil it smoothed out a lot and was not as jerky and smoothed out a lot. It also indicated the crappy clutch cover O rings we are getting. The clutch leaks. Some of it may be from the 1/4-28 plain nuts I used in place of the special cover nuts. I have acorn nuts ordered because they are indicated on later parts manuals. They may also use locktite but I'm not sure. I will install a newer clutch, belt and report the results.