Harley davidson 4 wheel Reverse is good, just not forward

Chevy Power 84

I have a Harley Davidson gas golf cart that I finally got somewhat running but runs better in reverse than forward. I rebuilt the carb, new ngk oem plug, new points, new fuel line, new fuel after tank was thoroughly washed, taken compression in both forward and reverse with both muffler on and off and it was the same of, ( Forward: 98psi, Reverse 105psi). Ive been playing with the points and timing since 1:30 today and still cant get it to run forward like it will in reverse. Is the only thing left to replace the crankcase seal? And are the last 2 numbers of the serial on a 1971, 71? If i cant figure this out ill be dropping a fancooled snowmobile engine i have sitting around into it.


I will post the number tomorrow when im back at the cart.

BGW

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Craigs carts

TEW45 has a couple good posts on timing, search the forum. this would be my guess.

tew45

Everything sounds like you have done a good job except the timing. Most folks today do not understand point ignition systems much less 2 direction point systems. Please search the forum for the timing procedure. Since I worked on a number of HD and Columbia machines I made a "timing stop" which just stops piston travel 1 5/8 inches before top dead center and it allowed me to adjust the point plate where firing occurs at the same place before TDC forward or reverse then it is just a matter of adjusting point gap where it opens at the right point then you are home free! Instructions are on the forum how to make a "timing stop" but it may not be worth the effort since it is rarely used. I am old enough that I had problems kneeling and looking through that tiny little hole with a flash light. Good luck!

bvilleharleycart

So once you have the points just starting to open both directions, then you set the points gap (.22) someone needs to explain this in simpler terms for me. I never know whether to turn the large plate or just the points? I've searched all the posts and just got more confused.

tew45

Turn the large plate until the points open at the same place in either direction. Or turn the plate so the points open at the dimple in the flywheel then turn the fly wheel in the other direction and see if the points open at the dimple on the fly wheel. If not turn the point plate until the points open at the same place on both sides of the wheel then check point gap and reset if necessary. It takes a while to sink in but if it is still not working for you PM me and I will try to send more instructions with photos if possible.

Chevy Power 84

Alright, so the serial # is 7C 10471 H9. Is that a 71? i only ask to order parts for this.

Tew, I only joined this site because of how many posts I have seen you do. Timing is set absolutely perfect. Points just start to open each way, with each set of dimples. (I've read your posts on timing multiple times). And the max gap is at 22 thousandths.

But i started messing around with timing and turned it just a little bit clock wise i believe and it began to run just slightly better. But you still had to have the choke on. But for every little tiny bit it went better forward, it got exponential worse in reverse to the point of where it wouldn't run unless i was moving the choke very fast in and out and forward was still an absolute mess. Is my best bet the case seals then?

P.S. I have TONS of experience on all kinds of 4 stroke motors, I even got ase certified through a high school program i took, but i hate working on 2's. haha.

Chevy Power 84

Ok, my cart is a 1979. But I am still wondering about the above and also a simplified solution to your coil post. So in a short answer will any 12V coil bolt onto my cart with no problems?

chuckbaynham

Re: coil and crank seals:

Any 12V coil will work and if it is not "internal resistor" type coil you will have 12V on the points side instead of diminished voltage like the points side of a ballast resistor in an automotive application. I suppose you could use a standard 12V coil and add a ballast resistor.

Crank Seal check: Have you considered using a hose attached to a butane or propane cartridge (like a butane torch) not lit. The small fuel line size hose can be placed near the crank seal and then you listen for RPM increase. If RPM increases you can be confident the additional fuel is being drawn in past the seals.

Good luck

Chevy Power 84

Ok, so the cart totally quit running today. My cousin was driving it and he stopped for a second to talk to someone and now it wont start at all. It wont even pop.

On the 1979 does the crankcase still suck the fuel or does the carb do it? I have a automotive/universal fuel pump sitting around that i could put in it but im afraid that would give it wayyyy to much fuel. Any ideas?

Also, i can barely see the spark with the new plug. I have the plug gapped according to the owners manual, (28 thousandths i believe), and the motor only started firing with the new plug. Is this a weak coil? Or should the coil be fine?
This is the coil i have that i am wondering if will work. Its brand new, but i don't want to burn it up by just guess and check.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-40011/overview/

Chevy Power 84

Also, since it ran fine in reverse i should just leave the reeds and the head gasket alone right?
Also where can i find instructions on replacing the crankcase gaskets?