1971 Model D - New Owner ?s

93yellowclubcar

I just picked up this pretty good looking 3 wheel Harley: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/membe...ew-harley.html

From the 3B and H1 in the serial number I assume it is a 1971 Model D - haven't seen many that old with a steering wheel, is that factory or something someone did later? Appears to be factory on the cart. (I know the steering wheel itself and the top are CC, just see a lot of the older H-D carts with a tiller)

The cart runs good on flat ground, starts pretty easy in both reverse and forward - wants to cut out sometimes though and bogs badly when shoving down the throttle unless you do it very slowly. The choke seems to help cure the bog a bit. The cart creeps uphill, bogs terribly just as when shoving down the throttle - acts like either not enough fuel or too much air. Never worked on one of these before - any common problems that cause this? (I've read maybe a carb rebuild needed?)

What is good compression for this engine? (should I do the test hot or cold?)

What is the correct fuel mix ratio? The factory tag on the tank says 128:1, just like an EZGO - but I've read on here someplace 85:1. That seems a little strong, I mix for EZGO 2 strokes at 100:1, but I don't know how different these engines are.

I want to put on new belts and throw in a tune up kit and dump the old fuel and mix my own before delving deeper to see if that helps any issues - any other recommendations while I'm going? Engine was supposedly rebuilt at the time the PO did the restoration, but I have no idea how long ago (very likely several years) which is why I want to check on the compression.

aTdHvAaNnKcSe

BGW

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73eldo

71 seems correct based on those numbers. I think they always offered a steering wheel version. My guess is it was fairly expensive so not many people got it. I think the 3 wheel tiller was likely well over 1/2 the sales the rest being divided between 3 wheel with a wheel and 4 wheelers.

It says 128 on the tank? Black metal tank with an electric gauge sending unit under the right seat? I have not messed with the earlier metal tank ones that much but what I remember is there is a 1.5 oz measuring cup built into the gas cap and 1.5 oz comes out to 85:1 per gallon. Maybe yours had a bunch of non Harley parts on it? Can you post a pic?

Getting fresh fuel in it and running it a bit is a good first step. That may help. Going through the carb should help too. If that don't help it sounds like it could be crank seals.

73eldo

Also my opinion is the quality of the points that come in the kits is complete trash as are most of the ones you get from a parts store. The rest of the stuff in the kits seem alright so I still get the kit for the rest of the stuff and throw away the points. The only brand that has not yet let me down is Standard Ignition Blue Streak DR2240. They fit Chev inline engines so they are not too hard to find. If your local parts store can't get em places like Summit and Jegs have em. Spent a lot of time and money replacing lots of other parts on engines when it turns out crappy point sets were the problem. Even if you get em running right at first they don't last long.

93yellowclubcar

IMG_20140818_131518_249.jpg

IMG_20140818_131524_506.jpg

Has the 1.5 oz cup AND the sticker - sticker says 128:1, cup says 3 oz. per 2 gallons (85:1). By all signs and appearances, the tank and sticker are both original.

Also, it was recommended to use either the Standard Blue Streak points or Echlins in my other thread. Blue Streak isn't sold here locally, but I can get Echlins at NAPA. Any experience with them? Also, can someone please school me on checking/setting timing and gap? Fairly sure timing is OK, but want to be sure.

73eldo

That looks like the correct tank and it certainly looks to be a vintage sticker that specifically says Harley on it but I have never heard anyone mention anything other than 85:1 before.

I looked at what Napa had and seems like I was concerned about the terminal the wire attaches to. Seems like I thought there may be a clearance issue in the carts. It was several years ago so I don't remember the details but I do remember I didn't even buy em to try em. I did have an echlin set on my boat for a couple seasons and it seemed like I always had to clean em if it sat for a few weeks. I think I ended up finding a set of blue streaks I took off the boat in my junk box and put them on a cart and they worked better than anything else I had tried so that is why I went looking for another set.

tew45

1.5 oz per gallon is correct. I have a that recommends less oil but I think that was just a trial that did not work well. I think it was a 100/1 mixture. 1.5 oz/gal works well ans shows little engine wear and carbon does not build up in excess but it does smoke some. Compression usually runs around 90 psi on a healthy engine. I usually get 80 to 85 on a new top end when the rings have not seated. When the rings are not seated or wear sets in the compression will be 5 psi or so more in reverse due to a little higher rpm. Check new points for a flimsy moving arm. There is a cheap set on the market that the moving arm is very weak and cannot be used well. When we used the point system in the 50's we had to check and adjust the moving arm of a point set to assure good surface contact. It's a good idea to check today. Some points have a clearance issue but it can be somewhat corrected by reversing the terminal screw. I prefer the points that just have a slide in terminal with no screw when I can find them. I have two HD carts (74 and 76) with steering wheels. The 1974 came standard and I pulled the wheel off of a later model for the 1976. I prefer the wheel but that is just a personal thing. The wheel was an option. Good compression and proper timing is important for proper running. I have ran some very sad belts before replacement but not recommended.

73eldo

Oh ya I forgot your points question. Gap is set with a 'feeler' gauge. In theory this can be fairly accurate with a new set of quality points. The lower the quality and more wear the less accurate the gap method is. On a car you would use the gap to start with then use a dwell meter with the engine running to dial it in. I have never seen a published spec for the dwell on these engines so I don't know if its just not that critical or what.

Timing there is an official method in the manuals but I found that moving it around till it runs is the starting point then I make small adjustments then test drive in both forward and reverse till it feels about the same in both directions.

Gap is set by loosening the one screw that holds the points down and letting them pivot slightly. Timing is set by loosening the 3? screws that hold the points plate into the housing and rotating the whole assembly slightly. If its running now it may be a good idea to make some sort of mark so you know where you started and how much you are moving it.

tew45

I made a "timing stop" to set forward and reverse with since I was doing a few at the time. There are several posts on how to perfectly adjust the timing with out the guess work. Just look on the search section and check them out.

93yellowclubcar

Thanks for the help so far guys. New issue. Tore into the carb today, didn't realize that entailed removing the starter/generator. Anyhow, here's a pic of how it was together with the intake tube.

IMG_20140821_145209_598.jpg

And herein lies the problem: the pieces don't fit together! It was much dirtier, as one can imagine, before I took the wire brush to all this crap to see what I was dealing with. What am I missing???

IMG_20140821_145248_939.jpg

Also note that it looks like someone has stacked several gaskets between the carb and reed plate adapter, is that normal?

Oh yea, compression tests 93-95 psi consistently - cold.

Kplhdryder

You definitely have good compression, your two pics are not taken from the same angle, so its difficult to tell. Right off hand I say your missing the starter/generator mounting bracket, (part # 31474-71) its not shown in the second pic. And you are definitely missing the rubber gasket for the air intake.and that part # is 29138-71. I attached the parts manual, hope this helps, Good Luck

Attached Files

CPC_MANUAL_PARTS_1963_1981_GS_D_DF_DC_D4_HD__UTILICAR Harley Davidson gol cart - Copy.pdf (3.64 MB, 0 views)