G1 Bravo/Enticer port maps?

TheGDFP

Have any of the G1-mod guys done a port map on the sled jugs?
I have a Phazer 485 reed cylinder and the G1-J10 jug, but want to see if the sled single porting is between the extremes.

BGW

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smokindawg

Sorry, I don't know a thing about 2 strokes as far as modifying them. But good luck to you on your work with this engine build.

TheGDFP

Haa. Thanks for the encouragement. I'm a sick man, and can't leave any thing alone.
I'm leaning toward the old MX250 map, fairly torquey.
Maybe drop the exhaust port a mm compared to it, plus compensate for the 4mm stroke difference.

nota

golf cart exhaust ?

a cart pipes is not tuned or shaped for power
no point in exhaust gas with a nice port and nowhere to go
2 strokes are very dependent on exhaust gas flow , pipe shape, and return pulses
pipe it and see the difference even stock with a snow or dirt bike pipe
but it will need to be cut up and rewelded to fit and loud

my g-1 has the snowM exciter 250 barrel carb ect
yes the ports are huge compared to the stock j-17 odd small port barrel
I was told a pipe will double the power over the cart unit on it now

anyway pipes before ports
and when porting try a little not a lot

slonomo

I had an Enticer 250 top end on my G1. It ran pretty good with the Plowman's G1 performance exhaust pipe. I called Don Plowman on this. He's a sled fanatic, so I believe his opinion, plus he has done this mod. What he told me is that to make the Enticer 250 setup run like it was designed, you'd have to use the Enticer pipe, which makes sense to me. Anything else would be purely a guess with performance. I did, however, ask him about the old Honda Odyssey 250 pipes, and he seemed to like that idea. If you look up the Odyssey, you'll see that the pipe looks like it might fit without too much modification. He thought the power delivery would be what the Enticer setup needed. Just a thought.

TheGDFP

Yep, the FL250 pipe is on the short-list :)
I'd planned a different exhaust from the beginning.
Polaris ATV pipe, similar deal, common and cheap.

TheGDFP

I'll try not to get too willy-nilly with the grinder ;)
I figure about half way between the G1-J10 and the ET250 exhaust duration, will suit a cart much better than either, and I'll still have reeds.

sho305

I thought the ET250 was a piston port not reed, or was that the bravo. Myself I'd try to put a ET340 in it, even if I had to build a crank trigger or swap a trans. The twin is just music to me and the ET340 is a runner....and yes I'd put the pipe in the sled would do 60mph. That said I lifted the port on a G1 a little and advanced the timing, cut the head, worked on the clutches, it ran pretty good compared to a stock one and sure it went over 30 on stock tires.

I'd guess a pipe would help more than anything, and yes a lower rpm one, and yes you would need to clutch it to run on the pipe also to realize what it had.

TheGDFP

I saw several of the old threads, modding the 2 stroke singles, and think I can take them a little farther. Or, maybe I'll give up and join y'all in the Big Block Brigade :)

Yep, both of the 250 sleds are PP, with slightly different bore and stroke.
70x64 on Bravo
73x59.6(ish?) on ET, same stroke as the G1 and the Phazer reed jug I may try.
Minor hold-down bolt location difference is an easy fix.

Semi-rare, the 292 reed jug is taller for the 70mm crank. Looking for a jug and crank now, as a 292 punched for a 643 slug, leaves a 321cc single. Cubes is king.
For about $180 over a standard crank rebuild, I can have the stock wheels welded and the pin cut farther out, matching the 292 throw and maintaining the G1 clutch and ignition.

The twins do sound nice. Triples even more-so :) But I'd probably use the torque-beast XL-V 540 with a few mods for 5k running, if going double-slug. The little ones are real light on torque

TheGDFP

The fixed timing I think the 2 strokes have, isn't really ideal.
Cheap and easy HEI module doesn't change that.
But, the 5-pin has a pin that when grounded, retards 5 degrees of trigger timing. I'll advance the base timing, and run a wire to the carb with contacts at full-throttle, to reduce melt-down