G2 steering linkage

buggybomb

Getting ready to fab up a 4" lift for my G2 and am wondering what mods, if any, need to be done to the steering linkage? Are the knuckle arms going to need spacers at 4" or are the angles at that height going to be ok?

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

sho305

Usually a 4" lift is 2" lift and 22 tires (22-18=4/2=2" lift from tires) = 4" total lift, they include the lift and gain from tires. The rods need to be about level to work right, I never raised mine up and it does not turn as sharp. You would raise them about what you moved the spindle down, but don't include tire lift only suspension lift.

The problem with not lifting the tie rods at the spindle is the way the pitman arm on the box swings, you lose swing when the rods angle down and it messes up the steering on the outside tire in a turn. Some of this is ok it cornered nice on fast trails but wont turn sharp as a stock cart.

If I were doing it again I would also move the arms outward at least an inch to make the front wider. I did move them forward about 2" you have to in order to clear the frame with big tires. If you angle the arms down your front is more narrow. If you lift it high you really need to make it wider as its less stable. My floor is 18" high its just enough so the tires rub if I put a lot of sand in my dump box.

You may need to change the length of the tie rods, its easy, I think 1/2" pipe (like gas pipe) fits right over the rods just weld it on. You can buy pipe nipples at HD or lowes etc in various lengths to do it if you don't have any around.

I also made 3x1.5 tube mounts for the front shocks with multiple holes in the end, that way I can move the shocks in to make it softer, they can hit the tires moved all the way out but the ride is very hard there I never use it. The front has little weight on it a little softer is nice, but it can drop lower with two heavy people on it.

buggybomb

Thanks for the info sho! My plan was for 4" actual lift not including tire height. I like the idea of moving the arms out in order to widen the front end, I'll work that in when I start cutting and welding.

sho305

Your stuck with spacers in the rear, but the front you can move out. I was always going to redo mine but it works fine so I keep running it. I'd actually like to put a ATV front on it then you get the brakes, but I never have time to shop for one.

smokindawg

When I built my lift I did move the wheels forward 3" and widened the front by 4" total. I then run 2" spacer per side on the back.

I actually built my lift and turned my spindles over to make the arm set on top where it was closer to actual height as stock. I also welded in spacers. Only thing is, this changed the angle of the front wheels so I had to build even more lift in to make the camber correct. I ended up with around 12" of lift.

You need the steering arms as close to level as possible so spacers are a good idea.

buggybomb

Thanks for the input smokin! I'm thinking 2" forward on the front wheels should do it. I was contemplating flipping the spindles as an option, glad you spoke up! I should be able to fab up a couple nice little spacers to bump the knuckle arms up the necessary amount. Been around carts for years but this one is my first lift so I appreciate the info.

smokindawg

Buggy, it would take a little time but I'd try flipping the spindles over and see how much lift you get just doing that.

I had no idea what I was doing when I built my lift. I built in about 6" and when done I measured the amount I had to lift the rear to match the front and ended up seeing around 12" So I'm thinking that just flipping the spindles will net you between 4" and 6" of lift. Of course, I have been completely wrong before.

I may have only gone with 2" forward. I'd have to measure it. If you widen the front end you will however have too lengthen your steering arms. Or you can just make completely new ones using heim joints.

buggybomb

That's not a bad idea smokin! Fortunately I have another complete frame with intact steering to use for experimentation. I had also planned at some point to chop it up and utilize parts of it in my lift.

sho305

I bolted my arms ahead of the stock mounts then made another set of mounts for the front sides. My arms are angled a lot, the toe has to be perfect to run on pavement or it goes up or down depending. On trails its great as it does not lean much in corners. To do again I would drop and widen the mounts then leave about 2" lift in the arms (angle them some). But my lift is only 4-5". I cut the end of the arm from the bottom up and left the top welded, then bent it out to get the tire angle straight. Welded some gussets in there and it was good. Its an easy way to get the camber right but the cart will sink a little with riders on it so angle them out just a hair if cart empty.

I did another one I didn't lift as high it does not have a box. The arms are not angled that much just enough to clear 22s. Have no problems with that one it works great.

buggybomb

Been giving this some thought. For now the plan is to run 20" tires on the stock 8" wheels. This cart is going to be used for tearing around the neighborhood and the occasional romp in the hills. Would a 4" economy lift be suitable for my needs? It would definitely save me some time fabrication wise which would be a good thing right now.