Yamaha g2 issues going uphill

toxicwaste29

Hello all,

I picked up a yamaha and will be doing a build thread on it. In the mean time I got it running and it barely makes it uphills. It is all stock. The rpms dont seem to increase uphill. Any idea what to do to fix it? Adjust the governor for top speed?

BGW

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cgtech

Check the carb throttle blade (external arm on top of carb) to verify full throttle when pedal is fully pressed. Clutch & belt is likely your problem, look around here, there is tons of info. The governor does not control engine rpm, it sets the maximum allowable wheel speed. The governor will allow full throttle any time it is not against its "max wheel-speed limit".

toxicwaste29

Alright will do. I figured it was one of those but it gets dark around 7 now and dont have much time to check anything anymore. Could the torque limit strap have something also to do with it?

cgtech

That could affect performance, but other things would have to be bad also for the low performance you have.

toxicwaste29

Clutches seem okay. I tightened the torque strap up some, it was lose and even when pushed forward. I will try testing it tomorrow.

sho305

Loose/broken tension cable will make it bog on hills, not affect it much on flat ground though take off rpm can be a little lower. Too tight and you will lose top speed. Most likely is the clutches have an issue I would clean them and lube the zerks on them. Check the pads on the ramps on the secondary. Take the cover off the primary and look for broken or loose arms. When you grease only use 1-2 pumps make sure none comes out the center where it can get on the belt. A worn belt also will make them bog 1" wide is the wear limit they are not that good at that point, with a lift and big tires you have to change the belt before that. 1 3/16 wide new, find one same size and 1 1/4 wide if your clutches have a lot of wear, or get the HD kevlar belt from CPP its awesome and will last longer. None of the moving sheaves should wobble very much, they might have a little play in the bushing but not a lot.

toxicwaste29

I checked my belt. Width is good. The problem might be my primary clutch doesn't release. If I drive it and get off I can pull it off the belt before the belt is released. Do they have a spring like club car clutches?? I inspected inside and greased it. All is okay. Also my second sheeves are ground and worn into each other is this acceptable to a point?? I can take a picture if needed but don't know if it will show up okay.

toxicwaste29

Here is a picture. It seems pretty trashed. Should I go with a plowman or cpp performance clutch kit. I would just need to get a spring seat from elsewhere. Buggies shows two for a G2 (just using for reference) which one would I need?

sho305

Yeah that is not good. You want the newer version it has much larger plastic pads. When I bought one I got a cut sheave, it has more power at very low speeds and for towing or steep hills. Make sure you get a heavy one the cheap ones on ebay some are very thin. I'd recommend a umax spring from yamaha, but a kit from plowmans or CPP should work well also if you want one of those. You will need the spring or kit much more once you lift it. The cut sheave is nice for towing or really steep hills, it helps takeoff as the rpm go up quicker out of the hole. Above ~5mph it does nothing. Bigger spring will hold rpm higher and make it more snappy. There is no spring in the G2/9 primary clutch. It has to fall out on its own, if lubed it should do it. If your belt is old it may not as much because the belt is more limp I guess you could say. A new belt tends to want to be round and will push the clutch open. Or if the belt is wrong size, or motor mounts are bad or tension cable is gone that can let the engine be closer to the trans and less belt pressure. The belt should have around 1.5" deflection at the center at rest, but its a heavy stiff belt and the clutch should move out with pressure from a single finger, easily. On the other hand if your ramps are toast like that, don't expect it to shift right make sure you fix that before you worry about anything else. But at minimum you will want a spring (umax or good brand kit) to run stock motor on 22 or more tires and may as well do it while you have it apart. Oh and you should get the spacer for behind the secondary that goes on the splines, the snap ring will break with a larger spring. Mine was almost broken it was bent sideways with the stock spring. Then the clutch goes onto the shaft too far some rub the case.

Get one like this with the big shoes that bolt in, its the upgrade. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Gas-G...-/400941184578

toxicwaste29

^ Thank you both for all your help. I very much appreciate it.

Im not sure if i can post these links but I want to make sure I get the right parts. If I get the performance kit from cpp and the helix; that will be everything needed to fix the rear clutch correct? Also it will have the machined sheave which I will want, the spacer you mentioned, and also a new belt just in case mine is to old and out of round.


https://www.cartpartsplus.com/golf-c...s/yamaha-helix

https://www.cartpartsplus.com/golf-c...ckage-g-2-g-22