Here's My G8 Project

Prowlerguy1

Howdy All,

I've been lurking around the forum the past month or two. I needed to do my homework after buying this G8 project off Craigslist.

At first, I pretty much had buyer's remorse. This thing was quite a pile. But, after doing some searches and research on this forum I started feel a little better.

Initially, the list of problems with this project included:
1. It didn't run;
2. Key switch was gone;
3. It had no battery;
4. Three of 4 tires were junk;
5. Body panels are busted up;
6. Seat had a big (burn??) hole;
7. As I began to troubleshoot key switch I found total crap, hack-job, wiring;
8. Front end King Pins were shot;
9. The seatback mount brackets were bent and sprung;
10. The brakes were not working well;
11. The airbox was missing.

To get the cart running I robbed the battery off my backup diesel generator; spent 2 days straightening out the messed up wiring (including temporarily installing a toggle switch in place of the key switch); removed, cleaned and re-installed the carb and checked the plug and spark.

Once I got the cart to start I found the following additional problems:
A. I had to keep the choke pulled to get it to run very well, or run at all;
B. The battery was not charging;
C. Once the cart started, it would not shut off (the starter relay would "latch" on and just keep turning the engine over with all the switches off! What!).

So, one-by-one, I fixed the various issues listed above. The info, experiences and advice offered up on the various threads here were invaluable in getting this project on track.

In the next post I'll cover some of the repairs and the current status.

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BGW

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Prowlerguy1

Here are a few more highlights of some of my G8 cart repairs (beyond what I mentioned to get the engine started).

I found a local tire dealer that had two stray tires he wanted off his inventory. He cut me a deal and I got two new tires. Then found a decent used tire on Craigslist to match the one existing decent tire.

I got the seat repaired at a local canvas shop.

I ordered a kingpin and bushing repair kit from eBay and installed it.

I put bolts in the seatback mount brackets and then heated the plate with a torch to allow me to straighten the sprung holes.

I pulled the brakes off and cleaned, lubed and adjusted them.

I finally got the engine running well enough to troubleshoot the battery not charging issue. I found out that the V/R was shorted out and was putting 12V back onto the Red/White wire. That is what was keeping the started relay solenoid latched on and preventing the cart from shutting off. With the V/R removed, I shorted the green wire to ground and the generator was putting out 17V when the positive battery cable was pulled.

Another member on the forum was parting out a cart and I bought the airbox from him. I installed it and it sort-of helped, but the engine was still not running well unless I pulled the choke. More on that in the next post.

So, at this point, the cart was rolling and running. I've attached a current pic of cart. I've ordered a new V/R. I was running the cart around for short periods when starting with the battery fully charged up.

In the next post, I'll take you through more troubleshooting I did with the lean-running issue.

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Mike Mac

Prowler, keep at it, also, contact G1-G9 (Tom). He may have an air cleaner box!!

They won't run right without one!!

Prowlerguy1

So, after I got the (used) airbox installed, the engine was still running lean. I figured that I'd try taking the carb off one more time to make sure all the jets were clean and that it wasn't sucking air in from somewhere that it shouldn't be.

What I found was that someone had fabricated a home-brew carb joint from a piece of pipe and some nuts and bolts. You can see it in the attached pics. It's a nice job, but I noticed a funny flat spot on one side. It looked like that flat spot was put there on purpose.

Then, I realized that the flat spot was near the "V" shaped area of the carb port in the engine head. You can see this in the attached pic that I'm pointing at.

I put the carb joint (only) back on the engine and sure enough, when I stuck a flashlight in the hole, I could see light through a small hole created by the "V" in the port and the flat spot on the carb joint!!!

Why would someone do that?? If it is such a big deal to make sure that the airbox is as airtight as possible, and if air leakage around the throttle plate shaft can cause problems....why would someone purposely make the engine run lean??

Anyway, I welded more flange onto the home-brew carb joint. With more flat area, the carb joint seals tight to the head and now there isn't any leakage. However, the engine still ran lean!! What-the-frick??

While installing the airbox, I noticed that the top of the airbox was warped slightly. After running the engine for a bit, I was taking the seat back off and noticed the top of the airbox on one corner was kinda sticking up. I put the transmission in neutral and started the cart. I stepped on the gas and while the engine was running (poorly) I put both hands on the top of the airbox and pushed down hard. The airbox sealed up and THEN ENGINE STARTED TO RUN BETTER!!!!!

The top of the airbox is somehow permanently dish shaped and when I push down on one end, the other end pops up. So, what else is a guy to do?? Duct tape!! (OK - It's a temporary fix, just to help me figure out what's going on and how to effect a permanent fix).

With the engine running better, I ran the cart with WOT and shut it down quickly. I pulled the spark plug and took the attached pic. Is this a good color for the plug?? I'm trying to figure out if I now have the engine running with a good fuel:air mixture.

Let me know what you think. Thanks.
Todd

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Mike Mac

Todd, get a new carb joint. It insulates heat from the head to carb. I understand you can get a new top for the air box. Also get new gaskets for it and the carb joint.

And will you unlock your account so you can be private messaged!!

Plug can only be read after being put under heavy load, meaning you have to accellerate the car under full throttle to color the plug. Then kill ignition before you lift off the throttle.

Prowlerguy1

Mac -

Thanks for the heads up.

I'm trying to decide if I want to do as you suggest and get it running with the stock stuff - OR - buy the Plowman's Performance package with the new muffler, holes in the airbox and larger carb jets.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,
Todd

Prowlerguy1

Absolutely! That is something that I hadn't thought about. I know that the aftermarket ones are all some kind of plastic or phenolic. But, it makes perfect sense to me that a hot carb will screw up the fuel:air ratio. Great point! I already researched these online and you can buy a set with the joint and gaskets for less than $20.


I had no idea it was locked! I'll get that fixed as soon as I'm done typing here.


I did that before I took that pic. So that pic should show what I currently have going on.

Thanks for all the insight and advice.
R/Todd

G1-G9

Prowler if there is anything you need for your cart i might have it, just let me know what your looking for.

Prowlerguy1

Thanks Tom. I will!

BTW - hilarious signature line! Too funny!

R/Todd

G1-G9

Thanks. With out the air box you will need to pull the choke to make the cart run good. Carb adapter is a huge thing to make sure is correct also.