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Unread 03-21-2017, 09:49 AM   #11
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
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Default Re: G2 valve guide issue

Yes sir explained it perfect. I guess I will think about fixing this. Not sure how hard of a job it is.
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Unread 03-21-2017, 01:27 PM   #12
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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Default Re: G2 valve guide issue

I pulled cylinder head off, can somebody tell me how to remove the valve guide. Do i need to take this into a shop and have it removed with a press?
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Unread 03-21-2017, 02:14 PM   #13
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Default Re: G2 valve guide issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine View Post
I pulled cylinder head off, can somebody tell me how to remove the valve guide. Do i need to take this into a shop and have it removed with a press?
Unless you have the tools to hammer them out and back in, I would recommend a shop. You do not want to just pound on the end of the guide.
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Unread 03-21-2017, 07:06 PM   #14
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Default Re: G2 valve guide issue

Cart is good to go. Pressed the valve guide back into place, cleaned both valves and threw her all back together and she fired right up. Sounds better than ever.
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Unread 03-21-2017, 07:18 PM   #15
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Default Re: G2 valve guide issue

I probably would have thrown some green locktite on it to keep it from moving again. Was it hard to press back in?
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Unread 03-21-2017, 07:28 PM   #16
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Default Re: G2 valve guide issue

Was fairly hard to press back in. I guess, if i have problems in the future again I will take some different steps. Just see how it runs for now and see what happens.
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Unread 03-21-2017, 08:53 PM   #17
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Default Re: G2 valve guide issue

Heat heat helps break up the loctite on fasteners that were installed that being said small block said the valve seals don't last on exhaust valve because they get to hot I don't think that loctite will gain you anything that's If you can get any where you want it being a press fit
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Unread 05-01-2017, 04:53 PM   #18
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Default Re: G2 valve guide issue

Finally got time to take care of this over the weekend. About 4 hour start to finish, including cleaning up dirt/gunk from the inside of the plastics and from the fins on the head. Fairly easy to do. Remove intake and exhaust, remove plastics, 6 bolts to pull the head. Everything looked good in the cylinder. Popped out the exhaust valve, found the appropriate tool then used a BFH to drive the guide back down to its proper location. Deburred the inside of the top of the guide (just in case), then some assembly lube on the valve stem and slid it back in and put the spring and retainer back on. I used some ultra fine aluminum oxide paper with a bit of valve lapping compound on the sealing surfaces of the head and the cylinder (I have a nice surface-ground piece of steel that I use for this). Some CopperKote on the new head gasket, then assembly it the opposite of disassembly. Adjusted valves, drizzled some oil over the rockers, etc... buttoned her back up, and she lit off immediately when I hit the starter. I think it runs better than it ever has. When I was cleaning everything while I had it apart, I found part of a broken pushrod down in the cam/lifter area. I think the previous owner had this happen and he just loosened the valves to the point that it would run without binding. Explains why the rocker bridge broke shortly after I purchased it.



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