G1 crank bearings shot

dezrcr822 · 07-01-2018, 10:54 PM

Took engine out today to replace crank seals and found way to much play in the crank bearings. Probably why the seals are shot. Im hoping the big end bearing is ok and can just replace the crank bearings. Searched all over and cannot find a video of case splitting a G1. I have a case splitter and crank puller for my dirt bikes, just did my yz 125 crank. Will they work to split my cart cases? Is it roughly the same procedure as a 2stroke dirt bike bottom end? If so which side should I pull the crank into first?

Spicyunicorn · 07-01-2018, 11:29 PM

I'm not familiar with a splitting a yahama dirt bike but the g1 can be split with a steering wheel puller if you have long enough bolts.. there's a spot on the case to thred bolts in then push on the crank to split the case

Golf cart guy · 07-03-2018, 07:28 PM

Its simple.

Remove everything off the motor and stick it in the oven, yeah, that's right, stick it in the oven 350 degrees, for about 20 minutes, you will be able to tap the case off, no pullers needed. Ive never done it any other way

mikeasis · 07-04-2018, 09:46 AM

watch the cheap china stuff. get a good quality bearing

Spicyunicorn · 07-04-2018, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeasis

watch the cheap china stuff. get a good quality bearing

Agreed if you have a good parts store and you can get the bearings out without destroying them they can cross reference them to a good bearing I prefer timken and it will probably be cheaper

dezrcr822 · 07-04-2018, 05:17 PM

Great advice, thanks. I found factory yamaha crank bearings and will order them. Disassembled engine today and found crank to be in good shape as well as piston. Does anyone have rod to crank side play spec? Side play seemed fine but want to check and no vertical play in big end bearing at all. Piston is std and looks great as well as cylinder bore. The quench area in head is almost comical and could be measured in ounces instead of cc's

, pump gas friendly for sure. Thinking about using piston again with new rings and wrist pin and bearing. I used my case splitter to split cases and push crank out, worked well.

dezrcr822 · 07-04-2018, 05:25 PM

Have to order some parts now and clean and inspect everything again but have to do some race prep to the bike and quad for the night races this weekend. My 4yo daughters first race. Ive included a pic with the part numbers for my case splitter and crank puller, both are Tusk brand and were had for under $200.00 in case anyone was wondering. Also a pic of one of my rings. Its hard to see but there is i almost split in the middle of the ring, any thoughts on this? It will catch your nail but i didnt see annything on the cyl bore. Have a safe and happy Fourth of July!!!!

Golf cart guy · 07-04-2018, 06:35 PM

Since you race, a trick we did many years ago on that motor was the Yamaha motorcycle head gasket which is much thinner and 2 base gaskets.

Spicyunicorn · 07-04-2018, 09:01 PM

You seem to know your way around motors and if you have a good machine shop I'd highly suggest getting an over sized Piston and have them bore it out (do a quick google search you can still get them I didn't want to post a link beings it's not a sponsor) but for the extra money you're already this deep into the motor in my opinion it's worth the new parts simply because that's an original Piston no younger than 29 years old... Best part is when they bore out the machine shop will get a great cross hatch on the cylinder wall after they are done

dezrcr822 · 07-05-2018, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golf cart guy

Since you race, a trick we did many years ago on that motor was the Yamaha motorcycle head gasket which is much thinner and 2 base gaskets.

I have done this on my yz 125 with Athena jug and head to lower compression. Its an o-ring head gasket so no changing there, three base gaskets and I could run pump gas. Ended sucking air from them, went lean, and killed the rod big end. Went back to one base gasket and race gas to keep from detonating.$8.00 per gallon

but is screams for a little pinger.Do you remember which yamaha,IT,YZ ect you used? I may try it.

07-01-2018, 10:54 PM	#1
dezrcr822 Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: The Desert Posts: 248	G1 crank bearings shot Took engine out today to replace crank seals and found way to much play in the crank bearings. Probably why the seals are shot. Im hoping the big end bearing is ok and can just replace the crank bearings. Searched all over and cannot find a video of case splitting a G1. I have a case splitter and crank puller for my dirt bikes, just did my yz 125 crank. Will they work to split my cart cases? Is it roughly the same procedure as a 2stroke dirt bike bottom end? If so which side should I pull the crank into first?

07-01-2018, 11:29 PM	#2
Spicyunicorn Gone Wild Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 1,669	Re: G1 crank bearings shot I'm not familiar with a splitting a yahama dirt bike but the g1 can be split with a steering wheel puller if you have long enough bolts.. there's a spot on the case to thred bolts in then push on the crank to split the case

07-03-2018, 07:28 PM	#3
Golf cart guy Gone Wild Join Date: May 2015 Location: Central Florida Posts: 2,114	Re: G1 crank bearings shot Its simple. Remove everything off the motor and stick it in the oven, yeah, that's right, stick it in the oven 350 degrees, for about 20 minutes, you will be able to tap the case off, no pullers needed. Ive never done it any other way

07-04-2018, 09:46 AM	#4
mikeasis Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: venice Posts: 1,807	Re: G1 crank bearings shot watch the cheap china stuff. get a good quality bearing

07-04-2018, 06:35 PM	#8
Golf cart guy Gone Wild Join Date: May 2015 Location: Central Florida Posts: 2,114	Re: G1 crank bearings shot Since you race, a trick we did many years ago on that motor was the Yamaha motorcycle head gasket which is much thinner and 2 base gaskets.

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07-04-2018, 09:01 PM	#9
Spicyunicorn Gone Wild Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 1,669	Re: G1 crank bearings shot You seem to know your way around motors and if you have a good machine shop I'd highly suggest getting an over sized Piston and have them bore it out (do a quick google search you can still get them I didn't want to post a link beings it's not a sponsor) but for the extra money you're already this deep into the motor in my opinion it's worth the new parts simply because that's an original Piston no younger than 29 years old... Best part is when they bore out the machine shop will get a great cross hatch on the cylinder wall after they are done

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