1993 G9 No spark

es1758

I have a g9 that I am rebuilding and can now get the cart to turn over off the pedal but have no spark at the plug. I amy running the Chrysler igniter setup (picked up from CP241 thread) and getting power to the igniter and the coil but still no fire. The wires from the rotor were a little crusty so I re terminated them but seems like the ground is loose inside, would this create a no spark issue?

BGW

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CP241

Have you checked resistance of the pickup coil? And did you ground the chassis of the Chrysler ignition module? I just ran a bolt with a wire eyelet through one of the mounting holes. If the chassis of the ignition module does not have a good ground it wont work.

If your pickup coil is bad I may have a spare, would have to check.

es1758

Getting 480ish from the w/b and w/r wires on the pickup. I have a dedicated ground from the ignition module to the chassis. If the black wire from the pickup is broken inside will it not function?

CP241

I dont even have the black wire connected to anything. It shouldnt make any difference.

According to the service manual, pickup coil should be between 495-605 ohms between white/red and white/black. If you're reading 48ohms then that's definitely a problem!

CP241

Double check that resistance again. I just checked the pickup resistance on my junk motor and its 524ohms. If yours is 48 it needs to be replaced.

es1758

Sorry I corrected it, it was around 480 not 48

CP241

Is it cold where you are? That's still out if tolerance per the FSM. But FSM spec is 68 degrees (its 73 here). If it's really cold where you are that may lower resistance some.

If I remember correctly that resistance will bounce a little when it gets to the gap if you spin the flywheel.

I'd say double check to make sure the W/R and W/B are still in range at the ignition module itself and not just at that 3 on triangle connector. Make sure you dont have a connection issue there (that 3 pin is usually covered in oil and stuff).

And carefully check the wiring to make sure it's all exactly how I've got it on that diagram. I drew the whole ignition module to make it easier, the only other diagram I could find was backwards and really hard to follow.

Also check the resistances of the ignition coil. Primary coil shiuld be around 4ohms (shooting from memory here) and the secondary coil (with the spark plug cap removed) should be around 11-15k ohms. The spark plug cap itself should be around 5-6k ohms.

The spark plug cap is pretty common to fail on small engines. I cant count how many times I've bought things that "have no spark, bought a brand new coil" just to find they reused the crusty old $20 cap that was open and not showing correct resistance.

es1758

Found it, the r/w powing the igniter was broke and just barley touching so it had a poor connection. It started and revs up way high on choke so now I can proceed on the mechanical side of things and button up my wiring. Thanks for all you help, couldnt have done it with out it. This cart is new to me so who knows what else Ill find. Thanks again

CP241

Glad you got it! That's my favorite part is the adventure of finding "what else" is wrong. Once they work I get bored of it pretty quick haha.

In advance, Make sure your airbox is 100% sealed. Any leaks in where the lid seals, and it's not going to run very well. Zip ties work great if the rubber band things are missing.

And dont use an aftermarket carb. They're junk and frequently cause more problems than they fix. About all they're good for is stealing parts to fix the old OEM one. Gaskets, springs, the plastic thing on top of it, etc.

es1758

The air box is gone it has a mikuni (j3802 u6yl) on it with a cone filter. Also found that the intake is broken, this is plastic and looks like they over tightened it and broke it so gott figure out this part of it now..the fun continues