G9 smoking but has good compression

croz

Guys:
My G9 seems to run good but smokes when cold. Once it warms up stops smoking. It is burning a little oil. The compression is 145lbs. Any suggestions. If the oil ring was broke would I still have a fairly high compression?

BGW

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TheNewGuy

Not really sure about the oil ring but sounds like it could be the problem.

Ron


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spriddle

That sounds like good compression. Your oil my be overfull. The dipstick on these models can misread. Make sure you only have one quart. Check your air box and see if it is full of oil. Valve guides could be warn too and allowing oil to seap down into the cyclinder wall after it sits for a while.

croz

Thanks gents. I'll see what happens. I had a guy change the oil maybe he put too much in.

spriddle

I bet he did. If so, be sure to check the air box for oil.

croz

Thanks spriddle. We will see what happens. I spoke to the guy and he thought he put too much in. Off topic Did you keep your G9 stock engine.

Roger

smallblock450sl

Don't mean to butt in on good suggestions, but my 2 cents worth. 145 lbs is low for a G2 thru G14 (@wot) compression test. Should be closer to 160 to 175 lbs. I would think if it only smokes when first started..Valve stem seal/seals needed. If your loosing oil also, i'd think collapsed oil rings and worn compression rings with that low of compression. Sounds like a great time to disassemble/hone cylinder/rering/valve clean up and lap and install valve stem seals on both intake and exhaust (only came with a seal on intake originally). Good luck dave

spriddle

My G9 has the stock engine.

croz

Thanks again guys:
That is why this site is so great. Dave I am going to have the engine torn down starting tomorrow.
spriddle thanks. The oil was way over full but when it was drained and one quart put in, ran for some time it still smoked.
I hate to be a pain as there are so many post to read but I have one more question.
Can you just take the top end apart to do the rings and valves or do you also have to take the bottom end apart.
thanks
Roger

Flintrock

Roger, the cylinder and crankcase are one piece so you have to take the crankcase cover off in order to get to the rod bolts to remove the piston. Lay the engine on it's side and carefully remove the crankcase cover in order to keep the camshaft and balancer gears in their original position with the crankshaft gear. Mark their location where they mesh with the crankshaft gear with a punch before removal so you can put them back in the correct position. They (especially camshaft gear) were paint marked from the factory so the mark(s) will probably be gone by now. Other than that it's a fairly simple job, have fun and don't forget to put the oil splasher back on the rod cap! There are ways to determine proper timing and counter balance gear placement if you have to, but it's a lot easier to do it this way first!