Pics of mods completed on my 89' G2

bansheemxer

Well I finally bought my first cart in Jan. of this year after years of trying to find the right time and the right price on a fixer upper cart. Man did I find what I was looking for. I came across an 89' yamaha G2 that had been sitting in a stall for around 2 years at the golf course that is down the road from my parents house. My dad grew up with the owner of the course so I asked him if he had any carts that needed some work that he wouldn't mind letting go of. He showed me this cart. I figured he was going to want around $1500 for it since all it needed was a new belt and battery. He told me that the guy that owned it was a doctor and he had just got the engine rebuilt but the driven clutch was making noise so he just went and bought a new cart! Anyways...I asked him what he wanted for it and he said "How about $300?" I was like...um sure that sounds like a fair price...

All it needed was the gas tank drained, carb cleaned, oil changed, and after a new belt it was up and running!

BGW

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bansheemxer

I really don't have any build pics. I wish I would have taken the time to do them, but here are some pics of the mods that I have done. I am currently waiting on two more 10x8 douglas red label wheels for the front.

The first thing I did was start on the suspension. I knew I wanted it wider and enough lift to clear 23-24 inch tires. I started by making a drop bracket for the front that would move the a-arms down approx 2.5" and forward 2.5".




I made the bottom mounting points for the a-arms 3" wider per side. I had to add 1.5" in length to the tie-rods to get the alignment in the ballpark. Next I had to cut the knuckles off the a-arms and re-weld them with more camber so my tires wouldn't look like this \ /

I sourced the shocks from a Yamaha Banshee ATV for $20 locally. They are 14.75" from eye to eye and have preload adjments with alot more travel and far better dampening control.

bansheemxer

For the suspension in the rear I fabbed up some new shock mounts and welded them on about 3" lower than the stock location. I had some shocks from an 82' Kawasaki KZ440 cruiser bike that were laying around from a previous project. They are 13.5" from eye to eye with preload adjusments. I really like them because instead of not having any droop travel from the stock shocks, these ride about 2" down in the stroke of the travel so it makes for a far more pleasing ride and you aren't bouncing all over the trail.

sabercat

looks great! but you could use a new belt, it would get you some more bottom end/top speed.

gutterboy2ca

yeah, i noticed it was sittin pretty low in the secondary clutch, should be almost flush to the top, correct? anone got width specs on a new drive belt, mines a G14, but assuming they take same belt..

smallblock450sl

Yamaha's spec for drive belts is 1 inch width wear limit, but you should also look at the "V" part of the belt. Webbing showing/gouges and glazing will tell you time to replace. All Yamaha 4 cycles from 1985 to 2006 (the drive has a new belt) will be a J55-G6241-00-00.

smallblock450sl

2 things I see...Running a Comet aftermarket primary clutch (seems to be open all the way), but it looks like the sliding sheave is not preloaded all the way on the spring seat. Can't tell if he has a "spacer", but if the preload was tighter, the belt would ride higher on the secondary sheaves. Once I set the preload and use an impact to tighten the nut (holding the fixed sheave) it useually pulls the sliding sheave "inward" to mate up with the ramp shoes. Does that make sence to you guy's?

sabercat

i see what you mean dave

Newbylee

Nice find, bansheemxer
post lots a pics,we like pics

bansheemxer

Thanks for all the replies. I know my secondary clutch needs some attention. I need to get a splined input shaft spacer for the spring seat. It makes some horrible chattering right now. The belt is practically new with about 2 hours on it. (That was one of the first things I had to buy to get it running.)

I don't have a preload tool to get the proper tension on the spring so the best I can do is 3-4 turns while I get someone else to hold it in place I then I put the outer sheave on... It's a pain in the arss. Is there a tool that I can get my hands on to help set the preload when I get my input shaft spacer?