g1 dies...engine questions?

chuddly

ok so this weekend my g1 quit running (sounded like it had more rattle to it right before it died also). so i checked the compression on the engine and got 25 psi in forward and 50psi in reverse. does this make sence? im not real good with 2cycles at all (well i havnt worked on many) so i was just curious if you guys had any guesses? Also how much time am i looking at to rebuild the engine if thats what its gonna take? Im VERY good mechanicaly (i do bodywork and some mech. for a living) and i have a shop full of tools. Im just looking for a round about number....nothing solid.

BGW

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GMB74

Those compression readings indicate the engine is in need of major repair or rebuild. How much and how long depends on a lot of things- what it needs for parts, how long it takes to get them, your skill level in working on 2-stroke engines, if you have the proper tools available to work on this engine. The first step is to tear down and evaluate the engine. Then you can determine what to do next.

Crazy Canuck

Think long and hard before rebuild, if that's what it needs. I had a similar problem as you are facing. My cart was off the road for about a year and there was a lot of frustration. Here is some of the work that my helper and I had to do.
1. Pull the engine out. In doing so broke the sheave on the primary clutch. Ended up having to buy a new clutch as no part dealers just had the sheave. Thanks to BGW found someone selling a whole clutch assembly, $ 100.00 plus shipping and tax. $ 150.00
2. Changes seals, bearings, and piston rings. Not too bad getting the parts. Some on e-bay and others through BGW dealers below. About $300.00 total
3. Engine reinstalled. Many scraped knuckles.
4. Took carb apart to clean it up and my grandson lost the needle. Replaced it with another needle I thought would work. No such luck. Back to dealers and e-bay again for search of a needle. Ended up it would cost $ 55.00 for needle. Got a complete new carb on e-bay for $ 80.00.
5. Cleaned fuel pump and replaced a few old lines that were cracked.
6. Battery was old and wouldn't hold charge. Another $100.00
In conclusion, it gets quite involved once you start. Maybe you should find someone local who knows carts well. They would be able to advise whether better to go through all the work or find another motor. Anyway just thought I would let you know some of my problems with mine and add a couple of pics

Attached Images

	Motor back in.jpg (139.4 KB, 53 views)
	Waiting motor work.jpg (145.4 KB, 19 views)
	Yamaha ready to go.jpg (101.7 KB, 17 views)

sho305

You can toss a top end on them cheap, if that is all it needs and I'd do seals too. If it needs bottom end work that is more involved. You can never mess with clutches, they are alum and break. Always use a puller unless you know what you are doing and a hammer is not knowing. It could have a broken ring or piston make sure none went into the crank always flush it out if you think its ok.

You can have it bored and put the piston in, or buy the kit. I'd deck the head too its pretty cheap to do. Wash the snot out of it before you start.

Battery for $100 come on, go to walmart and buy the cheapest ~$30 battery that has the posts in the right spot. Mine lasts about 7 years plus leaving it outside all winter even. About any car battery will work even used ones that will not start cars start my cart for three more years lol.

If you do autobody its no big deal unless you have to split the case that can be a little more work.

chuddly

thanks sho....thats kinda what i was thinking but i just wanted to check. Im thinking its probly a broken ring or somthing like that by how it ran/stopped running and all that. Im going to try to get it pulled appart sometime next week

sho305

They are pretty simple compared to most car things. Make sure you check serial for year as the '82 iirc is an odd ball the motor is different. Some things interchange some not. Ring and piston skirts I've seen. A fresh bore makes a 2 stroke run better than anything else, so its always worth doing.