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Unread 08-02-2010, 02:26 PM   #31
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Another thing I missed, started it up and fuel was puking out the float vent the spacer to the head. Had to take the float out and stretch the little spring on the needle so it could handle more pressure....using the stock yami pump on the crankcase feed.

Thanks NewGuy, yes it was a project to do it this way lol.

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Unread 08-03-2010, 01:11 PM   #32
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

I was trying to estimate cost for this....
$380 engine TMD
$50 CPP clutch adapter
$20 airbox and muffler at boneyard
~$20 assorted PVC and fuel line
$20 exhaust clamps and flex pipe
We had scrap steel to make the mount and brakets/etc, but still seems like you could stay close to $525 if you bought the scrap. I can't think of anything else we bought. The steel pipe elbows/etc were from a thrift type store here and <$2 each. I made some small jumpers for battery power to the engine from extra wire but you can buy short lawn/car starter cables for not that much. A welder, steel saws, and drill press some people will not have but a sawzall and hand drill can work just not a welder. If you took it to a welding shop or most autobody shops have them, with the motor mount clamped up to weld, it should not cost that much to have them zap it. It could have been bolted together but would not have been as rigid. Its always a challenge for my inlaw to go cheap too as he does not care about looks, some things bought would have been easier, but we were also in a location with limited resources and no hardware chains close by.

Another issue is the oil in the fuel pump, you can't use the governor hole. Found some karting info and they drill a hole in the side cover when they take the governor parts out, put a fitting in. Also they use the intake spacer or the rocker cover. We are going to try the rocker cover because we would have to drop the rear to get at the carb. Some info on it here but note that is a 6.5hp not a 16 but looks similar. I will find out tomorrow when I look at the cover.

The wiring (think we had 8ga) was from the battery post on the large solenoid to the positive on the 16hp starter solenoid, and the ground terminal (to battery) on the generator to a bolt on the 16hp. I used the bolt on the front of the shroud in fact it is on there with the control panel. But we don't use the 16hp starter anyway or it really should be on a larger bolt or engine mount bolt, I'll have to remember to change it. That wiring is only for the starter, without all you need is a little ground wire to block, and ground the ignition to shut it off. I have to dig up a relay and will run it off the white/red cart wire to the ignitor, then have it ground the 16hp ignition when it is off...so it will be normally closed then opened to operate. Need a 5 pin relay for that I had a 4.
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Unread 08-06-2010, 11:38 AM   #33
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Update:

The intake spacer with pulse should be here next week, could not find any line to glue one up with and its only $10. Did some research and think it might be a little lean yet that makes them not pull much on the top end. It gets up to what I would say is max governor speed around 3600 and does not pull near as hard up there. It gains speed, but not much better than the stock engine did up there....not like it should, and that could make it run hot. So after I read the plug I might hog the main jet more and figure out how to adjust the idle jet since it pops a little on slow down and needs choke to start. The owner says the thing is an animal now compared to before, I know it runs away from my stock (hogged airbox and main jet, some clutch work) cart like nothing just don't think it is running as well as it should yet. He is going to run some trails with it once its ready, right now you have to empty the pulse line of oil every 5-10 minutes of use so hes not running it much. I can tell you if you turn to the right and stomp the gas with one person on the cart and 22 trailpro tires, it tosses a rooster of dirt/gravel/sand off the right tire it spins pretty fast. It will still spin it with two men on the cart. At 10-20mph if you give it even 1/3 throttle it pulls pretty hard and freaks out riders used to stock carts. I could not get it to take off hard from a dead stop think he needs brake shoes and it will not rev much at takeoff unless you are going up a hill or brake torque it some. Brakes work rolling but they don't seem to want to lock when still. I thought it was gutless at < 5mph but we stopped on a little hill and it ripped up it from dead stop no problem. Acts like the stock cart it takes a second to gain rpm then it goes, due to the clutch action with no spring. I took a video of it starting and running but not moving will have to try to get that.
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Unread 08-06-2010, 04:11 PM   #34
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

The spacer came today will put it on tomorrow and burn some gas!

Tried to get on you tube I don't remember if I had an account, typical it says my email has one but will not send me the password will not email me at all. Tried to make a new account says I have one but will not email me anything. Is it 1990 again or what, maybe they have windows running you tube now? So I can't post the video of it starting up. I told them someone stole my account see what they do now.
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Unread 08-08-2010, 10:14 PM   #35
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

So my clone gas tank, that I was running for about two years had all of the bolts pull out of it from the vibrations and is destroyed so I have to go back to my stock yamaha tank and pulse fuel pump. I am thinking of getting a pulse from the valve cover. Does anybody have pictures of this. I took off my valve cover and it appears that there is a baffle in there for a pcv and I dont know if drilling through the baffle will have an affect on the pcv system.
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Unread 08-08-2010, 10:37 PM   #36
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Getting to be endless nitpick problems with this thing. We pull the carb and made a new airbox cover because the old one did not look like it was sealing that well. Put it back together and hook the pump to the spacer. Also took a dremel and managed to cut a slot in the idle jet and opened that up a turn. Held a solder gun on it until the locktite let loose. I reamed the main jet to .050 from .046. It ran great, was messing with the idle and it quit. Yet again gas puking out the vent. It appears it gets too strong a pulse at idle, it was fine if you drove around. Tried a different spring on the float it didn't work. Later we put a flow control on pulse line and it seems to be ok now but I don't like that setup, either I get a needle valve to restrict it or buy the smaller pump everyone uses, or another guy said he teed it back to the tank so it could pump all it wanted.

Anyway got to drive it around some, it sure has more power. I did a speed run with near 400lb of guys on it and it only did 27.5 gps, didn't seem to want to wind out much. I ran my stock cart with same tires and about 50lb less on it and it went 25gps, this was soft sand driveway that was level. What the heck, I get to looking at his cart and the tires are soft, well mine is very slow with soft tires I keep the rears about 14lb and front 8lb. I put that much in his and the batteries died in my gps, but it did go faster I could hear the rpm going higher than before...so inconclusive on speed. Mine would top out at 28gps on that drive with just me and full tire pressure (and I have not checked mine in a while) and run 30gps on pavement or a hard gravel road on the level. More pressure makes the tires stand up too for more gear, they measure 23" that way. I think it will have minimum 3mph on mine. The engine seems to run much like the stock yamaha it just has more power, but it also lays down on the top end like the stocker.

So then we go out to this big ditch that is about 6' high plus a maybe 2' deep ditch off the road. I go into it slow and floor it and it crawl up the steep side, I can just get over it with two people barely moving. He goes up there with two people, hammers it and gets airborne off the top of it all the stuff flies out of the cubby in front and we have to pick it up. Drive it around some and it runs like we wish a stock cart did, thing takes off pretty hard and sets you back in the seat 0 to 20mph or so. A V is going to have more maybe wind better. Makes me wonder what this would do with a mild cam. We didn't want to rev it hard doing speed runs either since it is pretty fresh yet so we quit that.

Also checked the rockers and they were really loose, set them to .004 and it didn't seem to matter. The only issue now once we fix the pump better is it has a funny spot about 1/8 throttle it misses once in a while, not bad just here and there. About 8-10mph on the cart steady. It sounds lean but choke makes it worse, no black smoke, or maybe the main jet is too big, or the carb is just crappy. I bet it is the transition idle to main jet, however leaning the idle jet makes it worse. That is out two turns from stock now. It still misses above half throttle if cold, after about a minute it is fine, so the main can't be that rich. Once warm it responds quick and pulls hard. It starts fine with the stock generator.
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Unread 08-08-2010, 10:41 PM   #37
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by bordin34 View Post
So my clone gas tank, that I was running for about two years had all of the bolts pull out of it from the vibrations and is destroyed so I have to go back to my stock yamaha tank and pulse fuel pump. I am thinking of getting a pulse from the valve cover. Does anybody have pictures of this. I took off my valve cover and it appears that there is a baffle in there for a pcv and I dont know if drilling through the baffle will have an affect on the pcv system.
We tried that because you can do it on the 6.5hp, but the cover is different and you can't drill into the side under that baffle. If you get under the baffle you are fine but outside it where the airbox hose is there is no pulse. If you drilled through both it should work, or drill the head under the cover. The pulse spacer was only $10 plus shipping think it was 26 for two at AGK and it got here in 3 days USPS...and CA is a long ways away from me. I just have to get it to work right now and stop flooding the carb. You can drill your own spacer and glue a tube in it. Looking down the carb it comes out at about 2 o'clock and its on more of a vertical angle so the hole is at the side of the intake. It comes out next to the plug wire.
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Unread 08-08-2010, 11:23 PM   #38
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Thanks, I think I will drill my spacer and insert and glue in my own fitting.
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Unread 08-09-2010, 01:16 PM   #39
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

I glued in my own spacer and it works fine right now, but I've only driven it a couple miles.
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Unread 08-09-2010, 03:22 PM   #40
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

So after more driving I found out that I was actually flooding and I lost alot of power, it had a huge bog off idle, and was very hard to restart. So I went to the hardware store and bought a T and made a return line, now it runs great. A good thing about the G8 gas tank is that it already has a 1/4" nipple on the top of it. Here is a picture of my setup ignore the zip ties.
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