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Old 06-07-2010, 10:13 PM   #1
big jay
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Yamaha
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: michigan
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Default removal of secondary clutch.

do i need a puller for secondary clutch im noticing some wobble in it want to take off and inspect. possibly change spring for more low end power any suggestions?
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:23 PM   #2
lanesharon
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Yamaha
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 31
Default Re: removal of secondary clutch.

I have a G1, 1984, and I need to ask the same question. I pulled the belt off, cotter pin out, took the nut off the end, and that puppy won't budge off that shaft. I noticed 2 holes, but they were not threaded, so a regular steering wheel puller won't work.
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Old 06-14-2010, 08:00 PM   #3
lanesharon
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Default Re: removal of secondary clutch.

If I need a puller, is this it?


Here is a pic, from the parts manual, of what I believe to be the 'driven' clutch.


The outside 'sheave', I believe is #1 on this schematic. Am I right?

If I am right on both of these things, than I have to assume that when I pull that cotter pin and nut off the end, the center of the shaft should be threaded on the inside for that puller to work. And, that would only pull off the sheave. Am I right?

If just does not seem feasible to me that this would work, since the two small holes on the 'sheave' are not threaded.
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Old 06-14-2010, 08:13 PM   #4
GMB74
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Default Re: removal of secondary clutch.

The holes in the secondary clutch should be threaded and accept 6mm bolts. A steering wheel puller will work, as will the puller pictured by lanesharon. Check the sticky at the top of the forum titled Torque Kit Instructions.
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Old 06-14-2010, 08:36 PM   #5
lanesharon
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Default Re: removal of secondary clutch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GMB74 View Post
The holes in the secondary clutch should be threaded and accept 6mm bolts. A steering wheel puller will work, as will the puller pictured by lanesharon.
Sorry, but my outside sheave doesn't look a thing like that pic. I have a G1, 1984 and man those two holes are tiny. I did not 'feel' a thread, but they are so small it is tough to feel.

Mine looks like a metal dinner plate, with a metal, broad brimmed, top hat on it. That is where the two small holes are on mine. I marked them with orange lines on this pic:



Thanks.
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Old 06-15-2010, 07:57 AM   #6
Rodder41
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Default Re: removal of secondary clutch.

Mine was the same, steel face with aluminum hub. I didn't have metric bolts, so I re-threaded the holes with a 1/4-20 tap I had and then was able to pull it. Your holes may be packed with dirt. If they are not threaded, then you might thread them like I did.
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Old 06-15-2010, 08:01 AM   #7
Rodder41
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Default Re: removal of secondary clutch.

Almost forgot, when I had the puller on with pressure, I applied a little heat with a propane torch. I had new parts, so if you're going to reuse what you have don't use the heat. I'm not sure if the aluminum is heat treated.
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:59 AM   #8
big jay
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Default Re: removal of secondary clutch.

what i did was since i am replacing the worn parts with new. i just backed the nut off to the end of shaft to keep everything from flying apart and used a hammer and scap piece of wood and drove inbetween the 2 sheaves and it slid right off the key with no probs. saved the 35 dollars for the puller i would prob never use again.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:31 AM   #9
lanesharon
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Default Re: removal of secondary clutch.

Here is a picture of the actual clutch:
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:36 AM   #10
lanesharon
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Default Re: removal of secondary clutch.

I am not having a wobble, but I am having a rattling sound on deceleration and an intermittent slow down when driving. When I sprayed the spring shaft with a lithium grease, the rattle lessened considerably; but a day or two later, it increased again. Because of this 'temporary fix', I have to assume that there may be a problem with that clutch. But, honestly, I see nothing wrong on that shaft or spring. In fact, the clutch and shaft look relatively new.
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