G2 Engine easy mods

joe_avg

Wow! This place is great. I've been trolling here for a couple days and have learned tons.
I 'aquired' my G2 about a year ago. It had oil in the airbox and ran poorly, so as soon as I removed the filter and wilped up all the oil it ran fine again. I did the mechanical speed governor bypass and top end went to 22mph (radar). Now, I'm starting maintenance and upgrading, because earlier this week I was cleaning it up and found oil in the airbox, again. Plug looks fine, belts are done, grease and gunk abound.

Ordered new starting belt and a Plowmans performance kit.

Toying with the idea of a K&N, but which one? What do I do with the breather line after I go K&N? Is there other maintenance I should look into?

BGW

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joe_avg

Ok, so after some part mining at the K&N site, I came up with 5 possibilities (including the offering from CPP). Is there a recommended amount of surface area on the filter, or is it a best guesstimate? I'm mainly a private road driver with about 25% easy off-roading.

joe_avg

Oh yeah, when I got her she looked a little rough. I rattlecanned some burnt copper metallic as a test and got the decals from Amazon. My goal is just to have fun with it and not worry too much about aesthetics.

pirateride.2.jpg

It is a fun machine almost worthy of 'she' status

joe_avg

Plowmans came through and I got the performance kit this morning (fast shipping). I removed the tail clip and muffler. Short of using an angled pry bar is there an easier way to remove and reinstall the drive belt? Please advise...

G1-G9

my engine in my red g9 i have out right now, im having the head shaved and im putting a new piston and rings in it while its down. i have it bored .50 over and a 4 degree advanced timing key in it, the valves are shimmed so they wont float at high rpms. im also taking the counter balancer out of it. ive got a spare carb at the machine shop right now to open it up more to see if the makes more power. next time i have it out im going to be looking for a piston to go alot bigger with the bore. while looking at the block and it looks like we can go another .50. i tried the k/n filter thing and the rejeting of the carb but it didnt seem to do anything for the engine at the time but i will be trying it again when i get the carb back and a bigger exauhst outlet. i run plowmans clutch kits also and i wouldnt get anything else. we have 4 of his kits. we have 4 carts 3 g9s and a g16. the last g9 we have to do im putting a big block in.

tjstahly

Hey Joe I just replied to your other post about the key.
I also put a plowmans clutch in my cart. 1988 G2 The engine is still out(waiting to get a new drive clutch on it first ) but when I put my secondary clutch on I used a ratchet strap like the kind you tie stuff down on a trailer. I wraped it around the sliding sheave and the body of the trans. Then I would push on the sliding sheave and ratchet it until I had enough room for the key and the fixed sheave to go on. Be careful not to damage the seal on the sliding sheave when assembling the whole thing.The new spring they give you has a lot of tension on it, let me know how the new clutch works Im dyin to try mine out. I hope this helps. Tom

joe_avg

Thanks Tom. I had the same epiphany while muttering in tongues (ok, swearing like a sailor), before coming in for dinner, I cranked the interior disc back, locked on the key with vise-grips and torched it while wiggling, POP came right out. I'm trying the same method for install. Wish me luck.

joe_avg

All wrapped up, just waiting for a couple gaskets, an air filter & a generator belt. All should be in hand by Wednesday and installed in about 30 mins. Yippee

sho305

Glad you got it out.

I was looking at a G9 head and it seemed to me the exhaust port was TINY, but you can't grind much without welding it up. Nobody has been able to get any power out of them except a guy that had a cam made. It can be done but when a clone is $300 why bother. I hogged out my airbox and rejetted and it ran better maybe a hair more power. I can tell the last 1/4 of throttle does nothing. A G9 the ignitor advances the timing like over 30 degrees at 2500, not too bad. Working the clutches seems to be most productive with stock engines, but don't let me stop you from trying.