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Unread 05-22-2008, 04:07 PM   #11
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Default Re: my first post and problem

i tryed it is dry...well nothing comes out...and i ran it for 2 hours...and got it real hot.. still smoking....
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Unread 05-22-2008, 04:57 PM   #12
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Default Re: my first post and problem

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Originally Posted by crash12888 View Post
I've dealt with Keith at Affordable several times with success but have also had more than one issue with parts not showing up at my door.
Not bashing anyone, just what happened.

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I hhave dealt with him many times but I also have the advantage of him living about ten minutes from me so I go to his house and pick the stuff up.....He's always been very helpful and knowledgable....he gave me the best price by far on my g1 jakes lift as well....he even listened to my grip about having to weld the older steering knuckle/arms and now sells his own machined replacements.
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Unread 05-22-2008, 04:59 PM   #13
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Default Re: my first post and problem

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Originally Posted by emarch42 View Post
i tryed it is dry...well nothing comes out...and i ran it for 2 hours...and got it real hot.. still smoking....
sounds like a rebuild is in order.....
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Unread 05-22-2008, 05:06 PM   #14
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Default Re: my first post and problem

do you have experiance in these motors?? can i just do rings??? have the head rebuilt???
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Unread 05-22-2008, 05:30 PM   #15
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Default Re: my first post and problem

I posted this on another site, but it is always good to have as much knowledge as possible. You can buy a complete rebuild kit for $300.00 (crank, bearings, rod, piston, rings, jug, gaskets, seals) P.M. if you want the site.

It seems like every few months the subject of rebuilding a 2 stroke G1 comes up, and there are numerous questions and answers usually between a new owner and an old owner. I never jump in because the info that I want to give is a bit long. So today after seeing a new thread on the G1 rebuild I decide to put my experience into writing.

So this is my story, is it correct? I don't know, but it worked for me. I cannot stress that having the manual is of the utmost importance, and if you attempt to do thing the way I did and it does not feel right back off and try something else. I know that there are lots of G1s just waiting for someone to resurrect them, and if my little short cut gives someone the confidence to jump in and bring one back to life then I hope that this will be looked upon as a contribution this forum, and not just some useless rambling.

First off let me say that this is a tremendous site with tons of valuable information, and any time you attempt any major work on your cart you really need to have the service manual available. There are those on this site that may disagree with my methodology, and that's fine, I am not saying that my method is the best, it's just how I did my rebuild. That being said this is how I completely rebuilt my 1980 G1.

I scoured through all the available forums and never really found a true step by step explanation of how to do a G1 rebuild. The service manual breaks it down very well, but the instructions in the service manual calls for the use of some very pricy specialty tools that my wallet and I were trying to avoid purchasing. I had already spent $275.00 on a complete rebuild kit that included new crank, bearing, seals, connecting rod, piston, rings, jug, gaskets and a tune up package, pretty much everything except the crank case halves, cylinder head and woodruff key. I did have to buy some specialty tools, if you can call them that. Bolt puller set (Harbor Freight $10.00) 4 special bolts (NAPA $2.00), bunch of washers (Home Depot $1.1 4x4 metal plate (had this laying around). I also used a freezer, a gas BBQ, and a basic understanding of metallurgy.

I removed the clutch, flywheel, stator plate and then took the engine out of my golf cart. I then removed the cylinder head and the jug, and all the bolts that hold the 2 halves of the crank case together. I then used the bolt puller on the flywheel side and slowly cranked it down until the 2 case halves split. At this point I had the flywheel side of the case with bearings in it and my crank shaft and bearings still stuck in the clutch side of the crank case. To remove the crank from the clutch side of the crank case I threaded a 1 1/2 in bolt into the crank shaft and screwed it all the way down, I then used the oil pump housing cover as a template and drilled 3 corresponding holes in the 4x4 metal plate where the oil pump housing would bolt into the crank case. I then placed the metal plate on tope of the bolt in the crank shaft and using 3 other long bolts (I think they were about 4" each in length, and 2 were like 8mm and the 3rd like 10mm) passed them through the metal plate and screwed them into the holes in crank case where the oil pump housing attached. It is important that the 3 long bolts are sunk as deep as possible into the crank case and snug to the 4x4 metal plate, use the washers to shim this from the top so that you have a balanced force pulling on the crank case. I then slowly cranked the bolt out of the end of the crank shaft and the shaft slid out of the bearings. I now had 2 halves of the crank case with bearing stuck in them. I will point out that I did not have to heat anything up for the crank case to split, or to remove the crank shaft. If you find that this is just not working I would suggest first heating it up (BBQ on medium for 20 minutes) or buying the specialty tools.

I then put each half on the BBQ medium heat for about 20 minutes, (wear leather gloves as the heated halves will be hot) as I removed the first half from the BBQ and set it down the bearing fell out. The bearing in the other case half remained in place after removal from the BBQ, so I put a large washer over the bearing placed a large socket on the washer, tapped it once lightly with a hammer and it also fell out. Now that it was completely disassembled I cleaned the crank case halves.

Remember when I mentioned metallurgy, heat will cause metal to expand, (not a lot), and cold will cause metal to shrink, (again not a lot), but when you combine a very hot part (expanded) fitting into a very cold part (contracted) it's just enough to make them slide together with very little force. I put generous amounts of Yamalube on both of my bearings as well as my crank shaft, wrapped them in plastic, and put them in the freezer for about 1 1/2 hours.

Now that I was ready to reassemble my engine I put the crank case halves in the BBQ on medium heat for about 20 minutes, pulled them out one at a time, took my bearings from the freezer and dropped them in place. I did not have to push or press them at all they fell right in. I then let them cool and the bearings tightened up in the case. I then put the case halves with the bearings back on the BBQ, it is important to keep the case halves oriented so that as they heat on the BBQ the bearing will not fall back out.

I built a simple stand for assembly, really just a box with a hole in it so that I could support the hot half of the crank case with the inside of the crank case facing up and slide the crank shaft all the way in with the shaft going down through the hole and not hitting any obstruction. I then heated both halves of the crank case for about 20 minutes, pulled the crank shaft out of the freezer, I pulled the clutch side case off of the BBQ placed it on the stand with the inside of the engine facing up like a bowl sitting on a table, and slide the crank shaft all the way into the bearing. I then coated the entire face of the case half with Yamabond #4 pulled the flywheel side of the crank case off of the BBQ, and slide the case with bearing over the crank shaft. You may need to hold the bearing in place until it is fully seated on the crank shaft. I made sure that both halves line up correctly and put the crank case bolts back in place. I tightened them down somewhat, but did not torque them until the case was cool. Once it cooled torque to spec, install piston, gaskets, jug, head and I was back in business.
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Unread 05-22-2008, 06:46 PM   #16
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Default Re: my first post and problem

not sure on that cart....i know you can just do the top ends on the g1-g2-9 series machines or evenjust replace the rings...i seem to remember a screwed up valve on a friends g2 causing smoking too...
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Unread 05-23-2008, 02:15 AM   #17
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Default Re: my first post and problem

emarch42 .i have a novel thought.when "you" have a problem with your cart.i know this might sound crazy but start your own thread.dont hijack mine.
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Unread 05-23-2008, 08:43 AM   #18
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Default Re: my first post and problem

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Originally Posted by doughboy View Post
emarch42 .i have a novel thought.when "you" have a problem with your cart.i know this might sound crazy but start your own thread.dont hijack mine.
hmm it seemed like you had already had your question answered before he chimed in about his cart....I agree though he should have really started his own thread since his cart and issue are completely different.....same fix though...partial or complete rebuilt.
porter39....I remember reading that post before on other site..lol.good post though
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Unread 05-23-2008, 12:43 PM   #19
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Default Re: my first post and problem

Yea I posted it over there also, but us G1 guys are the few and the proud so I though I might share a little with someone that might not find it elseware.
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Unread 05-23-2008, 05:41 PM   #20
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Default Re: my first post and problem

thanks for the info.i tried to pm you,i wanted to know where you got your rebuild kit from
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