'81 G1 Transmission/Differential

OgreTX

Need a little advice ...

Before I bust the case, or break the outer half of the driven clutch, is 1) there a trick to get the clutch pulled, or 2) split the case without fracturing it?

I've got the puller as tight as I can physically tighten it (1, 2, & 3), without going to extraordinary mechanical pressure to get it loose. And I took all of the nuts off of the case, and tapped it gently, but it seems to be glued shut (4 & 5).

My guess is that this differential/transmission hasn't been taken apart since it was put together at the factory in '81. Any suggestions/shop tricks?

Ogre

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BGW

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DOOmsman

Yamaha uses a thing called yamabond to seal the case, it can turn to glue.
Heat it and it will soften.
Soak the clutch sheave with penetrating oil, NOT WD40.
Leave the puller on and tap the puller bolt with a hammer.
Grease the threads and end of the puller, let it sit with tension.

OgreTX

Thank DOOmsman,

I'll set the puller under tension, and leave it overnight. I've already soaked it pretty good with "freeze off". I'll pour a little penetrating oil around the shaft, too. I'll get out my propane torch and heat up the case along the gasket seal area.

I'll report back in a couple of days ... cataract surgery tomorrow morn. Just got backed up on some stuff that needed to be done before the eye doc gets to me.

Ogre

DOOmsman

. cataract surgery tomorrow morn.

Good luck.

Cvans

I ended up heating up the clutch hub while it was under pressure from the puller. Your probably going to melt the nylon spacer but I guess most people don't use them anyway.

slonomo

I use Blaster penetrant, great stuff. I have also used light taps with a hammer around the thick cast parts near the shaft, very gentle taps, and also taps on the center shaft with the nut on.

As far as the cases, yes warm them up a few times and let them cool. The heat/cool cycle can break the bond. Again, use light taps on the thickest parts of the casting. Once it's opened up a crack, use a scraper/putty knife to work it apart. Once it's open/cracked all the way around use a soft faced hammer or a 2x4 and tap the studs to sparate. Slow and steady, don't be in a hurry.

OgreTX

Great suggestions/techniques, Guys, THANKS!

I'll hopefully get back to the tranny tomorrow .... cataract surgery seems to have gone well. Well, until they do the other eye next Tuesday. lol

For Cvans, I really hate to do any damage, since some of these parts can't be replaced. I may try warming (as opposed to heating) to see if I can get the parts to expand at different rates, but I hope to not damage that spacer.

Ogre

Cvans

It doesn't take a lot of heat as the aluminum expands faster than the steel shaft. 250 degs. should be plenty.

OgreTX

I am always amazed at the knowledge on this forum ... so thanks again, Cvans.

Just a little above boiling water should do it, and is sounds like if I try to concentrate the heat on the Alum it will likely separate from the steel shaft. I'll give it a go ...

Ogre

OgreTX

Well Slo, I think I went slow enough ... lol.

Between cataract surgery, and some heart palpitations, and well I guess old age, I finally got everything off this morning.

I have used Gunk Super penetrant (I've had success with it on stuck vehicle bolts), and Freeze off, and finally PB Blaster and soaking, and heating, and applying more torque as I could, it finally came loose. Scraped off the old case gasket, and everything looks good internally, so I am going to install the oil seals, new gasket, and button it up. Hopefully that will solve my transmission leak.

Thanks for all the help guys ...

Also, pulled the motor to put new oil seals in it as described in the G1: "Everything about G1's" sticky, and am ready to pull the plate holding the coils as described in the thread by GMB74, so maybe by next week some time, I'll have a brand new G1 which I won't have to choke the sh!t out of to get it moving, and I won't have oil and trans fluid everywhere.

Wish me luck, guys.

Ogre