Electric to gas conversion HELP!!

Exotic4x4

Hey all, I recently did a 420cc 13 hp harbor frieght motor swap in my 1990 Ez go. It has a 5" lift with a live axle set up like a go cart. Problem in having now is I keep tossin the chain off my alignments are all straight and true. I'm thinkin the suspension articulation is causing the chain to flop off. So back to the drawing board. I have my stock electric Ez go axle I pulled the electric motor off to get access to the stub shaft that spins the differential. Now here is where I'm stuck. I WANT to do a drive and driven clutch set up on it. The motor is easy buy the drive and bolt it to the crank. The driven is where I'm stumped. How can I mount it to the Ez go electric axle?? Has anyone done this before? I've searched and searched and cannot come up with anything and I don't want to spend 700$+ on a gas axle and clutches on top of it. What have you all done on your swaps?

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Exotic4x4

What are my rear axle options?

rayjayy

The only way I figured out to do it is with the driven clutch on a jackshaft and the other end of the jackshaft having a large sprocket that then drives a smaller sprocket on the input shaft of the rear axle.

Your drive train will have to be mounted on a subframe that is mounted to the rear axle no matter what you do. Even with your current live axle this is true.

Exotic4x4

maybe I'll take apart the differential on the input shaft going into it. As a machinist maybe i can machine a long shaft for the sparky differential to accept a driven

rayjayy

You should check out the youtube videos of people that did a similar conversion. The electric rearend is super low geared.

Exotic4x4

As already stated I've researched, I know they're slow because they're geared low not looking to do 30 mph

rayjayy

How about something that looks sorta like an NHRA approved steel bellhousing ? Attaches to the transaxle where the electric motor attached, is large enough dia to clear the driven clutch, and the opposite end of the 'drum' is a flat plate that holds the outer ball bearing.

I saw one vid where the guy stripped the armature off the e motor shaft and put a sprocket on it. He cut holes in the motor housing for the chain to pass through. You would be mounting the driven clutch on this shaft but instead of a sprocket. The new 'drum' you make would take the place of the e motor housing.

I would still mount the driven clutch as close to the transaxle as possible. The attachment points where the e motor housing attaches to the transaxle is not that stout.

rayjayy

Now that I think about it... You could make the 'drum' out of 2 flat plates and several bolts with tubular spacers to space the flat plates far enough apart to clear the width of the driven clutch. All I'm trying to do is add an outboard support bearing for the input shaft like the e motor has in the end housing.

rayjayy

And before I cut any metal I would do the math on the gear ratios in the transaxle and the max rpm of the driven clutch to make sure the potential top speed is acceptable. It would be unfortunate to do all this work and find out the top speed is 5 mph.

Exotic4x4

I think what I'm going to try to do is buy the drive and driven clutch. When I know my exact diameter say it's .999 driven I'm going to machine a stud about 4-5 inches long depending on the driven dimensions, make a counter bore in that shaft to except my stock input shaft on my sparky differential press it on that shaft so a couple rosette welds on it drill and tap the opposite end of that shaft so I can secure the driven section onto the shaft. I was just worried about ridgitity on that shaft to handle a 13 hp motor. It's worth a shot if not I'll drop the 600$ on a gas diffy. I'm in far deeper than what the cart is worth it the motor rims and tires and lift. So might aswell keep dumpin more into it haha