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Unread 07-19-2019, 08:59 AM   #1
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Default steeleng 6" lift questions

When I put my 6" steeleng on my club car, I was in a hurry to ride it and didn't get the toe in / camber perfect. That was a few weeks ago so tuesday evening I decided to finally sit down and adjust it perfect since I had time.

Long story short, 2.5 hours later, I did not get it adjusted perfect. I think my toe in is pretty good but I could not for the life of me get the camber adjusted perfect. Everytime I would check it, jack it up, adjust it, set it down, and it would look ok. Then i would tighten everything (I had it snug so it wouldn't move, I wasn't tightening it enough to move everything) and set it back down and it would not be where I measured it at. I got so pissed off that I decided I don't care and it will be fine for the little that I drive my cart but I didn't know if anybody had the same issue.

Along those lines - are the bolts (specifically the allen head bolts to adjust camber) supposed to be SAE or metric? I called steeleng and they said they were SAE hardware on the kit - but I couldn't get any of my SAE hex heads to fit - i used a metric allen key. It wasn't a perfect fit but it fit way better than ANY of my standard sets. which really shows you how bad the standard ones fit since I used a metric one that wasn't a perfect fit. I'm not sure if I just don't have right sockets but i'm not sure how many sizes of allens I need. I wouldn't have thought that I would need a very specific size not found in common hex key sets to take bolts out of a golf cart lift kit but i've been wrong before.


And I was wondering if the steering wheel is removable. I am willing to live with my less than perfect (but livable on a cart I drive once a week, I dont care) because there is definitely not enough adjustment to get my steering wheel to straight when the wheels are straight. can i just un-thread the adjuster and turn the steering wheel then put it back on? (if that makes sense? or take off the steering wheel and flip it 180 degrees
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Unread 07-19-2019, 11:00 AM   #2
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Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

The camber is not adjusted with the allen head bolts. Those are just there to mount the heim joints to the spindle. The heim joints will screw in/out of the control arms and lock in place with the lock nuts. To adjust the camber, you need to remove the allen head screw, then rotate the heim joint in/out (depending if you have negative or positive camber corrections to make) and then reinstall the allen head bolt. Drive it around the block, then pull it back into the garage and brake smoothly and slowly, don't slam the brakes and make it nose dive, just ease in and recheck to make sure it's correct.

Be sure to use lock-tite on those allen head bolts, they WILL come loose if you don't.

For the steering wheel, I believe you should have 3 full turns in either direction from center. You can just pull the steering wheel off and set it to "center" so it's straight, but you would also want to make sure you're not setting it so you have 4 turns 1 direction, and 2 turns to the other direction. I don't think that would be good for the rack...

You use the drag link to straighten everything up. If you run out of adjustment on it and can't center it, then make sure the wheels and everything are centered before pulling the steering wheel. They're not fun to remove... I think it's a 24mm nut that holds it on. A cordless impact will zip it right off. But then it's usually stuck pretty good to the splines. A rubber dead-blow mallet may be required to give it a little extra "oomph" to pull it off. I have had to cut the steering wheels off before as well.

If you go the mallet route, be sure to thread the nut on 3-4 threads before proceeding to whack the hell out of it. Otherwise when it lets loose, it will probably fly across the garage.
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Unread 07-19-2019, 11:50 AM   #3
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Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

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Originally Posted by CP241 View Post
The camber is not adjusted with the allen head bolts. Those are just there to mount the heim joints to the spindle. The heim joints will screw in/out of the control arms and lock in place with the lock nuts. To adjust the camber, you need to remove the allen head screw, then rotate the heim joint in/out (depending if you have negative or positive camber corrections to make) and then reinstall the allen head bolt. Drive it around the block, then pull it back into the garage and brake smoothly and slowly, don't slam the brakes and make it nose dive, just ease in and recheck to make sure it's correct.

Be sure to use lock-tite on those allen head bolts, they WILL come loose if you don't.
I wondered that when I put those bolts in, how likely it would be that they would come loose. guess I'll have to get some lock tite.

I did a bad job of explaining, I know they didn't adjust with teh allen bolts. What I meant was I took them out and turned the helm joins in and out and also ran the bottom helm joints in and out using the nuts.

I'll try to explain this a little better:

I took time and adjusted the camber best I could, then tried to adjust the toe in (as per steeleng instructions in the book). However I did not have anough adjustment in the drag link (I think thats what it calls the thing that runs from side to side to adjust toe in) to get the toe in set to straight, because the wheels were too far out. So i went back to the drawing board, ran both of the helm joints in on each side. By running the helm joints in and pulling the tires closer to the center of the cart, it would allow me to have more adjustment in my drag link without having the threads ran all the way out to the end.
-so now that I have my drag link not ran to the end and the ball joints threaded in a safe amount of threads and I think my tires are pretty straight. within 1/4" at least. good enough for me. but every time I jacked it back up to adjust the camber, it would look good when i started, then i drive it, and it would be leaning too far in. Next time, Leaning too far out. Tried to adjust small amounts, didnt matter, still looked like ****, then had to move the helm joints again. I eventually gave up and accepted that I was never going to get it perfect. I was tired of screwing with the helm joints in and out in and out and tightening them every time I wanted to see how it looked and handled. I didn't once get it anywhere where I thought the camber looked like a perfect 90 degree angle. and if I did, i would tighten all the bolts (they were snug, when i tightened them it didnt adjust anything to take a test drive they would immediately move from 90 degrees or they wouldnt be 90 degrees when I got back.

Before I did all of this adjusting, my steering wheel was close but not straight. but once i gave up on my toe in and camber adjusting, i tried to straighten it which led to:


Quote:
Originally Posted by CP241 View Post
For the steering wheel, I believe you should have 3 full turns in either direction from center. You can just pull the steering wheel off and set it to "center" so it's straight, but you would also want to make sure you're not setting it so you have 4 turns 1 direction, and 2 turns to the other direction. I don't think that would be good for the rack...

You use the drag link to straighten everything up. If you run out of adjustment on it and can't center it, then make sure the wheels and everything are centered before pulling the steering wheel. They're not fun to remove... I think it's a 24mm nut that holds it on. A cordless impact will zip it right off. But then it's usually stuck pretty good to the splines. A rubber dead-blow mallet may be required to give it a little extra "oomph" to pull it off. I have had to cut the steering wheels off before as well.

If you go the mallet route, be sure to thread the nut on 3-4 threads before proceeding to whack the hell out of it. Otherwise when it lets loose, it will probably fly across the garage.

I'm not sure if the bar that goes from side to side is the drag link or if the bar that goes from the right side to the sterring wheel is the drag link, but either way i could not adjust the bar going to the steering wheel enough to get my steering wheel straight.
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Unread 07-19-2019, 11:56 AM   #4
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Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

Be careful which # of Loctite you buy. http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/th...threadlockers/ If you get the high strength and then later want\need to un-do it, the high strength will require heat to break it loose. I simply don't use that # on anything.

FWIW
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Unread 07-19-2019, 12:21 PM   #5
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Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTM View Post
Be careful which # of Loctite you buy. http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/th...threadlockers/ If you get the high strength and then later want\need to un-do it, the high strength will require heat to break it loose. I simply don't use that # on anything.

FWIW
I think I've got some blue loc tite in my box. I always remember red = need a torch to get it apart
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Unread 07-19-2019, 12:40 PM   #6
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Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

I believe the kit should have come with a tube of red loc-tite.

When you're adjusting the heim joints, just adjust one of them (lower or upper). A half turn makes a pretty big difference. Mine is set with the top ones showing about 1/4" thread showing, maybe a bit less. I would make my adjustments with the lower ones since you don't have to jack the cart up and remove anything to adjust them.

Unfortunately due to the nature of alignments in general, you have to make an adjustment and then drive it a little so it settles in. Then check it, adjsut more/less if necessary, drive it and check again. It just takes a little patience. Fortunately, there's enough adjustability in the kit to allow it to be corrected with enough time and patience :)
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Unread 07-19-2019, 03:13 PM   #7
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Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by CP241 View Post
I believe the kit should have come with a tube of red loc-tite.

When you're adjusting the heim joints, just adjust one of them (lower or upper). A half turn makes a pretty big difference. Mine is set with the top ones showing about 1/4" thread showing, maybe a bit less. I would make my adjustments with the lower ones since you don't have to jack the cart up and remove anything to adjust them.

Unfortunately due to the nature of alignments in general, you have to make an adjustment and then drive it a little so it settles in. Then check it, adjsut more/less if necessary, drive it and check again. It just takes a little patience. Fortunately, there's enough adjustability in the kit to allow it to be corrected with enough time and patience :)
well i would prefer to adjust just the bottom because then I wouldn't have to take anything apart. But like I said I had to move the tires literally in towards the center more, so i could adjust the toe in. they were pointed out and i didnt have enough adjustment to bring them straight. I swear I tried adjusting one side, adjusting another side, top joint, bottom join, both joints, its done now. I am done messing with it at least until winter time haha
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Unread 07-19-2019, 04:23 PM   #8
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Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

Lol I hear you. Its sweltering out there, part of the reason I work on my cart at night :)
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Unread 07-22-2019, 07:06 AM   #9
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Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

Does anybody know what size the allen heads are supposed to be? I'm still not sure I was using the right size allen key.
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Unread 07-22-2019, 10:04 AM   #10
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Default Re: steeleng 6" lift questions

I dont use Allen wrenches, too much work lol. I've got a set of cornwell metric and SAE sockets. I just checked, it is definitely SAE. a 9mm is a bit small but would probably work in a pinch. A 10mm is too big. But the 3/8 socket fits perfect.
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