Chief Purple Cloud

garymx

I’ve pilfered a lot of useful information off of this forum, so I thought I should give back a little. I started with a bone stock 2000 Club Car Carryall II. As a bonus, the motor was not running. Turns out it just needed a tune-up. I should also mention that the steering wheel clip board was broken, which forced me to turn this into an off-road golf cart.

Here’s where I started: Minus, the wheels, lift, seats, running engine, lights steering wheel and some other misc stuff. I don’t have a picture of its original state. It’s probably better that some things go unseen.

Attached Images

Desert Trip #18 11-22-09 Russ Pics 020.jpg (61.1 KB, 56 views)

BGW

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garymx

Here’s what I was going for, but Rose McGowan was unavailable.

Attached Images

Ultimate Man Cart.jpg (85.7 KB, 54 views)

garymx

So, I ended up with this:
IMG_3016.jpg

But, I'm getting ahead of myself...

garymx

Step 1: New 3-link rear suspension. The Carryall stock suspension is an axle over leaf setup with about 2.0" of travel assuming it is loaded. It wasn't going to work for off-road.

With the FE290's 9HP, I thought maximum traction would be required to get all that power to the ground. The 3-link has good articulation and it's typical quirks will not be an issue for a golf cart.

I started by welding a bushing assembly onto the front of the engine pan. It’s a 1” bushing assembly that holds a 5/8” shaft in two Delrin bushings. I welded two shaft collars together for the center pivot. I welded the shaft collars to the 5/8” shaft.
Center Pivot Susp link 2.jpg
The shaft collars hold two large polyurethane bushings. These bushing provide ample flexural compliance to accommodate the strange articulation of the 3-link. They also dampen the suspension and engine noise.
Center Pivot Susp link.jpg
I manufactured a front suspension link mount from 1/4" plate steel and welded 1/8” steel webbing between the link supports. The center link support will hold the center pivot described above.
Front Suspension Link mount 1.jpg

garymx

Step 1: New 3-link rear suspension:

Now, for the upper, shock mounts. I used the stock shock mount frame tabs to construct a new frame for two Banshee coil over shocks. I used the Banshee shocks because they seem to have the appropriate spring rate for the weight of the cart and they are readily available on EBay.

The frame is constructed from 1” square tubing. The lower tube with holes is 1” square telescopic tubing. I used this so I can adjust the shocks angle and rear suspension height.
Upper Shock Mount.jpg
I noticed this frame made a nice little pocket under the Carryall bed, so I welded on a bracket to hold a toolbox.
Rear shock mount 2.jpg
The shift cable bracket would not clear the new frame so I cut it and welded in a wedge of 1/16” steel to relocate it.
Shift Cable Bracket.jpg
Here’s what it looks like with the shocks mounted.
Rear Suspension 1.jpg

Attached Images

Tool box bracket 2.jpg (64.9 KB, 68 views)

garymx

Step 1: New 3-link rear suspension:

Next the part to end all parts – the bracket the holds the triangulated outer links, the shocks, the brake cable and the axle to the frame.

It’s hard to describe what this monster does, but I’ll try. From the right of the picture (3:00) going clockwise, the two parallel tabs with the ½” hole is the attachment point for the outer link. At 6:00 is the brake cable bracket. At 9:00 is the lower shock mount. It has multiple holes for shock adjustment. I found out during “testing” this part was too weak. I had to remanufacture it with a double shear design. At 12:00 is one of the axle carrier brackets. This piece was adapted from an exhaust clamp. The center plate has a couple of holes that bolt into the original axle U-bolt brackets.
Ultra-Part 1.jpg
This picture shows the assembly.
Outer Link Bracket.jpg

garymx

Step 1: New 3-link rear suspension:

Finally, the outer links. These take a lot of abuse, so quality materials are important factors and concerns for strength and safety. But, money is an important factor for my wallet, so I went with Home Depot steel tubing, ½” rod ends from an industrial hardware store and ½” weld-in threaded bungs.

They seem to work.
Outer links.jpg

garymx

Step 2: Differential Guard:

Differentials are an absolute must have for the serious off-road golf cart. Unfortunately, I didn’t really appreciate that statement until I made this skid guard. It is made from 1/8” steel plate. I hit one rock (ok maybe it was 30 rocks), and this skid plate was crumpled like aluminum foil.
Skid Plate Rev a.jpgSkid Plate Rev a 2.jpg
Rev B: This one is 3/8” plate and has survived several substantial hits. One of those hits may have been a small mammal. I’m sure it was ok.
Skid Plate Rev b.jpg

garymx

Step 4: Jake’s Suspension Lift Up Front:

The front suspension is Jake’s Long Travel suspension. It has held up pretty well except for a bent spindle after some rock crawling. I’ll get to that later.

Here are some pics of the installation. It is a simple bolt-on procedure.
Front A-arm Suspension 1.jpgFront A-arm suspension 3.jpgFront A-arm suspension 5.jpgFront A-arm suspension 6.jpg
The front receiver socket is handy.

Mike Mac

Nice job Gary!
You got an original there!