2 lifted questions

mortimer

I just lifted my cart and have 2 issues I'd like to address. First is the angle of the engine. I have read and heard that this causes the oil light to come on quite often. I was wondering if anyone has made anything to level it out. I was considering making a block underneath the engine to get it level. This would be about an inch and a half in the rear with the other end of the engine still touching the original plate. Seems to me that would mean possibly needing a new belt. Just curious if anyone has done that. Just getting ready to remount the engine after rebuild.

And second. The brake cables are hanging loosely away from the frame. What can I do about that? This is an '86 DS gas with 6 inch lift if that helps any.

BGW

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mortimer

Anyone?

I was wondering if there is enough adjustment or would I need different belts.

dyurisich

Why not just disconnect the light if thats's the main issue. Many carts have lifts and as long as you run the proper amount of oil, remark the dipstick for full, and check the oil regularly, you should have no issues.
As far as the belts with the lifted mounts, I have no idea. Everything I've read is about remarking the dipstick. My 94.5 Ez-go has no oil light so I don't have that problem.

Dave Box

That's an interesting question. If the oil strainer is at the front of the block and you lower the rear of the engine then clearly the oil will run to the back of the engine. Under these circumstances it is possible for the pump to start sucking air and bring on the low pressure light. Removing the lamp means that your next low pressure warning will be the sound of piston rings sticking to cylinder walls. The problem with blocking the rear of the engine is that you will change the relationship angle between the drive clutch and the driven clutch. If it were my call I would first look at the schematic of the engine and find out where the oil pick up is. In the middle of the sump or at the rear is no problem. I guess this is one advantage of running a 2 cycle, you can run it at any angle.

sho305

If you lift the rear you are tilting the engine/clutch away from the trans, you would need a longer belt if you didn't move it back as well. Sometimes it is better to lower the front of the engine cradle for some carts. I just put a clone engine in and simply cut a board to fit between the clutches and also measured the offset with a straight edge. The new engine is higher and back from stock, I used a 1.25 sq tube to drop the front down the rear is on the original bolt mounts. It is higher because the stock yamaha hangs below the mounts 3-4" and the new one does not, I had to weld bars in for it to sit on. The yamaha was splash lube and they seem to work fine tilted. The new one the carb and cylinder are to the rear, I was afraid that climbing a steep hill it might have oil up to the cylinder or the carb might not work right. Also the cylinder is very close to the trans.

mortimer

Well the KF82 engine is a splash oiling system. I agree with Dave on the oil warning light. That's why the cart was a freebie to my father-in-law. Then he gave it to me to rebuild. Thank goodness it was the aluminum rod that was froze to the crank. I got lucky there. And the crank is perfectly fine. Measures good and is still balanced right.


It is aweful hard to tell how far the driven clutch was lowered from the kit. But I definately want to level the engine. In fact I'm about half done with the mount to level it . I guess I may just cut the old rotten belts and measure the spaces between. I thought that would be an easy way. Plenty of places around to get similar belts.

4vertical

it is just much easier to make a bracket as stated to drop the front of the cradle. this will get the engine to an exceptable angle and be much easier and cheaper to do. as a plus the stock belt and mounting holes will work just fine.

-A