Scottyb Wires

tunnelmike

These are the best made wires i have seen yet ! Scotty uses closed end terminals soldered on and a long piece of heat shrink to finish them off. The first place my other wires started trying to corrode was on the exposed end of the wire which dosen't exist on Scotty's. These are the heaviest terminals on any wire i have used yet and with 2ga the more metal the better.

I also got in one of those ultra cool switch cam switches that looks much more like what i needed to get the AXE650's power to the motor. All new H/D parts and it even operates easier than my old FnR switch.

I noticed on the Alltrax diagram labled and sent with the wires that Alltrax reccomends 2ga on the 500 and only lists 2ga and 1/0 on the 650. Wires that are too small for the application will rob power and cause overheating of the wires that will lead to wire failure. I've seen it twice and it would have cost me way less to have just put the 2ga wires 2 sets back ! Thanks for offering such quality H/D replacement parts Scotty. Mike

BGW

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craig tn

Agree! He has great looking cables!!!

sonicj

pics? i've been considering soldering some rings i need to replace rather than buying a crimper. just been a little concerned about wicking...
-sj

scottyb

Are you referring to a wicking of the solder up the cable or moisture into the joint? Bothof these potential issues have been addressed ........

sonicj

solder wicking, but yea... both are a concern.

scottyb

Solder flows to hottest point like bees to honey. Keep the lug hotter than the cable.
Dielectric grease under shrink wrap or adhesive lined shrink takes care of the rest

sonicj

werd!

i tried to tin my CC DS stock orange F&R to Motor cable and it wasn't havin' it. i think its too contaminated or something. i have a fresh piece of tinned cable for round two.
-sj

scottyb

I have made that cable repair but it can be impossible to get a good solder joint on dirty metal so if corrosion is running up the old cable you could need some liquid tinning solution to help clean it.

One reason I get such good welds on my cable ends is that every thing is new and cleaned before soldering... and Working Temps must be high... higher than most people think they need to be. Got a good burn yesterday to prove it

sonicj

well this must be an art form because it wasn't happenin' for me today! lol! first attempt was so-so. should have left it alone at that point, but i wanted a nice shiney fillet so i decided to reflow. ended up with about 1" of stiff cable and a nice thick layer of scorched flux on the lug are you using a gun or a torch? hopefully you aren't giving up ALL of your shop secrets here!
-sj

scottyb

I am using either a torch or bottled map gas for these welds, depending upon where I am working and such. Temperatures are much higher than most people would guess, near 3000 degrees. Clean and re-clean... if the cable is old replace it. If it is really old ... replace them all ... then clean your new stuff too The higher the quality of the cable and solder and flux the easier it is to get a satisfactory weld. Making it pretty ~ now that's an art