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Old 10-06-2012, 07:31 PM   #1
Vbzatty
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Default G-16 4 link suspension question

I am running DOM tubing with heims from the top of my axle tube to the frame (parallel to the front pivot point) on each side. I will be keeping my trackbar in the rear (also upgraded to DOM and heims). My question is how to mount the engine cradle pivot up front. I will weld on longer tabs on the frame to lower it (to level out the engine cradle) and will use a heims joint. My question is the mounting point at the engine cradle. Should I weld it or have a heim (so I'd have a dog bone connecting the frame and engine cradle) where it connects to the cradle? I've seen it done both ways on other builds.

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Old 10-06-2012, 08:20 PM   #2
sho305
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Default Re: G-16 4 link suspension question

You mean joint up at frame or down on cradle? It will change the arc it travels in. It can work either way guess whatever works best for you. It could just be a matter of tire clearance issues. On a G9 for example the rear is very tight with 23s or larger, or you can cut off the bumper mounts/frame and move them back then you have plenty of room for more tire if you move the cradle back a little.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:46 PM   #3
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Here are two pics. One is welded to the cradle with a heim at the frame. The other pivots at both the frame and cradle. Wonder what is advantage is of one over the other. I will be moving the cradle back several inches, cut the rear frame ends and have wheel spacers for more clearance.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:52 PM   #4
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Default Re: G-16 4 link suspension question

There are 2 ways to do this,you can use 1-heim in the center,allowing the swing-arm/cradle to Oscilate as well as travel vertically at the rear,which will give awesome articulation off-road,but looses some stability,mounting the shocks tilted in towards the center at the top-mount will help minimize the side-to-side roll.The other option is 2-heims at the front,which will allow smooth,easy movement,but will limit articulation,It will actually be less than with the stock rubber-mounts due to the rigid-nature of the heims when run in tandem.With the bars mounted solid to the rear,its' all up to the front to do the moving,which will be limited,compared to a full 4-link set-up.Hope this helps.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:18 PM   #5
Vbzatty
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I will be running RZR sway bars (definitely rear, uncertain on front) so articulation is more important than stability so I guess one heim is the way to go. Still don't get how two heims won't articulate as good as one.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:33 AM   #6
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Default Re: G-16 4 link suspension question

If you run 2-heims on a swing-arm,it will be like your stock swing-arm,except tighter,the rubber-bushings allow flex.If you run Heims on your link-bars,a 3-link is far better than a 4-link.With 2-links on each side(4-Link)(heims at both ends of each bar)it won't articulate as well as a Triangulated Upper-Link with a single bar on each side, or a 3-Link(single upper-link,single side-bar on each lower).If you take the set-up in your right-hand picture,mount both rear-points on a heim,use a heim at the frame attachment up front(Ladder-Bar type suspension.),then run a Panhard-Rod to locate the axle side-to-side and it needs to be as parallel with the ground as possible to keep the rear from trying to walk sideways thru suspension-travel.Hope this helps.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:00 AM   #7
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I run spacers on my heims so they have more articulation. What confuses me is the engine cradle. Most suspension setups attach to the axle. The two lower arms run parallel to each other then you have one or two triangular upper arms. All points pivot at the frame and axle. With the engine cradle you have one mount on the bottom and two on top but the lowers are solid to the axle due to the cradle. That's why I figured adding a second pivot point (heim with spacers) on the front mount would better mimic traditional suspension setups.

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Old 10-07-2012, 10:31 AM   #8
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Default Re: G-16 4 link suspension question

The difference on a cart-suspension,is that the engine must remain perfectly aligned with the axle at all times because of the belt-drive.A quad,motorcyle,etc.. runs a chain or shaft-drive,so alignment-change doesn't affect power-transfer.With the belt-drive,any change affects performance.If you look at earlier Yamaha carts,they all ran a swing-arm/cradle with a 2-point mount at the front,it moved up/down and had minimal oscilation due to the rubber-mounting.I believe the G16(maybe earlier,not sure)went to a single-point front-mount,which allowed a more "independent-type" suspension.It greatly improved ride,since it allows the cart to twist more.But the engine and rear are still mounted on this "cradle".The spacers allow the Heims to pivot more,but if you mount 2 Heims next to each other,it becomes rigid.How about mounting the Heims on their side with the spacers at the front of the cradle to frame-brackets?This will let them flex more,while still allowing travel vertically.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:50 AM   #9
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When you say on their side, you mean so the bolt is vertical and with no spacer? Then use regular horizontal mounts up front with spacers? Would that allow sufficient up/down articulation? Do this with the front mount, rear, or all?
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Old 10-07-2012, 01:23 PM   #10
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Default Re: G-16 4 link suspension question

The G1 through G9 all used a solid cradle with two pivot mounts, one on each side in front of the engine. They simply had two shocks just ahead of the axles. The advantage of this is on the trail they don't sway in corners, I can hammer a corner pretty fast up to where the whole cart would tip, but my cart is not that high and 3+5 offset wheels its fairly stable.....and depends on human cargo placement affecting the center of gravity, I can slide a lefthand turn by myself if the front tires don't loose grip and thats why I run ~7lbs pressure in them and 14 or so in the rears.

But yeah no articulation makes for a bumpy ride in rough stuff. Most of our trails are not that bad but if you go across a field for example you should be ready for some lumps, and it pitches side to side trying to right itself on uneven ground.

On the other hand a stock lifted cart newer than a G9 can feel scary on trails. Our trails are largely logging trails and 4x4 trails, you fly around a corner at 15-25mph and you think you should bail because the cart leans so much. I'm talking a plain cheaper lift. For my use I'd want something that limits articulation some or widen the wheelbase enough to get some stability back. I like the idea of the 3 link with smaller long ladder bars that can twist some. Not being an expert I don't know if that is best it just seems to be. I don't like the cross bar in back I will avoid having one of those. I've also thought about making a single transverse leaf or even pack of hockey pucks on the front center mount to limit articulation, something you could adjust. Lot of good builds on here of rear suspensions just takes some digging to find them. I do like the ezgo style cradle its really simple, so if I built one it would be like that.

He is right if you have the links solid to the axle you can only have one front pivot and if more they need to work together, as the axle can not rotate (around the axles) if they are not on the same plane. On a car with upper and lower links the axle can stay vertical through travel, not sure how you would link the front of the cradle on a cart to do that.

I'm waiting for someone to convert something and make a arms and half shafts. I've only seen it on those desert buggies. But if you use a cart trans you would have to adapt an axle stub into it. Likely more trouble than its worth considering.
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