Tips for buying a used cart

Georgia Jeff

I currently own a 99 EZGO electric cart with a bed on the back and am interested in purchasing a newer cart. I am leaning toward a Club Car because of the aluminum frame. I intend to use the cart to drive around mostly around our 5 acre lot on grass with occasional trips through the subdivision on a paved road. I will also take it hunting occasionally which will mean it will have to be able to go down dirt roads and on trails (not to rough, no mud bogging, or rocks, etc).

I have several questions...

1. What should I look for in a used cart other than things that are common sense (cracked housing, broken lights).

2. Is there a certain model Club Car that has a great history of being a dependable cart that has plenty of aftermarket parts available.

3. Is there any model that is better than others?

4. Is there any model to avoid?

BGW

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Georgia Jeff

A couple of things I forgot to mention. I want an electric cart and plan to buy one with a slight lift, maybe a 4 inch or so lift, with a flip flop seat.

Georgia Jeff

Any help would be appreciated.

kgsc

A Club Car DS would do you fine. Tons of aftermarket parts. Precedent is also good but some parts are still pricey.

Kind of a shame.. I just sold a 05 Club Car DS and would have been interested in the 99.. funny how that works

sho305

Check the cost on upgrades if you plan on any, different carts have different issues, that is if budget is important to you. Otherwise yami/ezgo/cc are not that far apart overall. Some the lifts or other upgrades do cost more due to design. I'm not sure what advantage the alum frame gives. The only steel frame issues I have seen are from batteries puking and it never being repaired or washed down, and only right under said batteries. But I mostly see gas carts not electric. On a gas cart the gen can overcharge a bad battery and make it boil over, it can be an issue on carts people do not care for. The battery can be really bad and the cart still start and I've even seen them blow up on people.

options89

I say keep what you got and build it into your hunting rig

Then you cant go wrong

Georgia Jeff

It is set up really well to be a hunting cart right now but I need to add a rear seat. The kids are getting too big to ride in the bed now. It will cost me $300 for a rear seat and at least $500 to paint the front and rear body panels. The current panels were a max 4 camo pattern but the owner before me must have left it outdoors and the camo has faded. I'm just not sure if I want to dump $800 bucks into this cart when I could sell it and put a little more into a newer cart with the features I want.

kgsc

Jeff, couple of questions.. You said you had a 99 with the bed on the back. Is it a true workhorse or a txt that the bed bolted on ? Reason I ask is the bodies are different. 2 Where are you in Georgia I assume ?

Furyous

My two cents as a new "cartie" that has learned a lot in the past year but...

Check battery connections for corrosion, and general condition. If you can drive it, feel each post to see if they are warm or hot after 15 minutes or so. This goes for all high current connections with larger gauge wire (forward/reverse switch, motor, controller) If the motor is hot after regular use, it could be a sign the brushes or commutator are worn or dirty. use a gps to determine top speed- a stock 36v cart should be in the neighborhood of 14-15 mph. Look for date stamps on batteries to verify the date. Pop the caps off of each battery and check water levels. Should be 1/2 inch below the top plate. Use a voltmeter to measure each battery- all voltages should be close (+\-.4v) This should take care of the biggest cost factors of the cart. Now, check the chassis.

Listen for any sounds as you drive the cart such as bearings. If the cart is not running, check by jacking up each wheel (chock the tires first with no brake on) and spinning the tire. Should be silent, not making a sound on every revolution that sounds like a frog croaking or any other noise. Also, if the owner will let you, drain a bit of the rear end fluid. Should be transparent, not muddy or opaque. On the test drive test the brakes. Should lock up if you put full pressure on. If you can, take the wheel and drum off to visually inspect the pads and overall condition of the brakes, springs, and linkages. Look for rust anywhere- even though club cars have aluminum frames, they do have metal suspension parts prone to rust, including the rear end and shock mounts. Check bushings for signs of failure- most have rubber bushings that crack with a lot of use or exposure to climates.

Check all electrical connections for corrosion and check for functionality of everything on the cart, including charger if there is one.

Look for cracks or seams like you mentioned on the body, especially evidence inside the upper inner front and rear fenders, indicating a prior collision.


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