09-26-2013, 04:49 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
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Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
Hello everyone. I am new to the golf cart world but my wife says I am ruined already... and I happily did not disagree. I just purchased my first cart, '98 EZGO txt w/ a series motor and 20x11x8 wheels/tires. I have verified this through my many hours of plundering though BGW. So, of course I would like to start personalizing it. My first want is a 6" spindle lift but I noticed it advises larger rim sizes, other than 8". Is this a suggestion or will there be a function flaw? Thanks in advance for the info.
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09-26-2013, 05:02 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Port Wentworth, GA
Posts: 247
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Re: Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
Welcome to BGW and the world of spending all your money on a cart.
You will need to check with the manufacturer of any lift you buy about wheel and tire size. What are you going to use the cart for, on-road or off-road? You need 10" or larger wheels with most kits, esp if you add disc brakes. |
09-26-2013, 08:05 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
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Re: Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
Thanks for the quick reply and the welcome. I understand larger wheels if disc brakes are added but what if I keep the same brakes? Do 8" wheels not function mechanically w/ a spindle lift and why? Am I missing something?
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09-26-2013, 09:24 PM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Port Wentworth, GA
Posts: 247
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Re: Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
Not sure about the reason for larger wheels with a spindle lift, I've never used a spindle lift. I'm not a fan of spindle lifts because they are not suitable for off-roading durability. Also, many people on here have complained about a reduced turning radius. Most lifts require larger wheel sizes because of clearance issues with the front suspension parts.
If you switch to 10" or 12" wheels you will have many more options with tires. Be careful about 14" or larger wheels because they require a low profile tire that will compromise ride quality. I have 10" wheels which give me tall sidewalls on my tires, and this provides a very good ride. When I replace my tires, eventually, I will be limited to tires because the trend seems to be shifting to 12" wheel diameters. Disc brakes might not be a desire or necessity right now for you. However, if you get to drive a cart with disc brakes you will want to install them on your cart. Disc brakes are necessary if you set up your cart for higher speeds, install a big block, or significantly larger than original tires. This is something to think about for down the road as you modify your cart. My recommendation is to go with at least 10" wheels. You can buy steel wheels that are inexpensive if you are concerned with cost. Whatever route you take be sure to shop around for the best deal on a kit. I would stick with site sponsors because they are reputable and stand behind their products. eBay can offer good deals, but most people end up getting skunked or end up with low quality Chinese junk for lift kits. Take plenty of pics of your cart before you do anything, and then pics as you make mods. Several years later you will be amazed at the difference from what you started with and the final cart. |
09-26-2013, 10:55 PM | #5 |
I Refuse To Get Stuck!!!
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Hilton,NY
Posts: 5,427
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Re: Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
A lot of the spindle-lifts won't clear an 8" rim.The way they are made,they will contact the wheel.A "Drop-Axle" lift will work fine,and is very durable as well.You can run 8" wheels,but you will need spacers or offset wheels with larger-tires to prevent rubbing(which it appears you already have).Hope this helps.
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09-27-2013, 06:47 AM | #6 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Brooklyn, Michigan "Home of M.I.S."
Posts: 3,667
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Re: Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
It looks like your cart all ready has some lift, springs mounted above the front axle??
If you're looking to save money and use the tires/wheels you have, add a couple 1.5 or 2" blocks btwn the rear of the front springs and body. Then in the back flip your brackets over and move the rear springs to above the axle with blocks, easy to do and cheap. (blocks made from square steel tubing) In the front drill a hole in the blocks to accept the one bolt that goes through the springs. In the back drill holes in the middle of the blocks for the spring alignment pins. |
09-27-2013, 04:28 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
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Re: Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
This site is great, everyone is a tremendous help and I am learning, "Thanks." So it is suggested by StoveBolt that I may already have some lift and I too considered that but after inspection could find no evidence other than what seems to the untrained eye as stock. I have taken some pics, can anyone help me identify if I have "some lift" and how to improve that. FYI... I measured the rear shackles and they are 5" from bolt center to bolt center. Again, it is a '98 EZGO txt w/ series motor and 20" tires on 8" wheels. What do you think?
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09-27-2013, 04:46 PM | #8 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Plant City, FL
Posts: 2,212
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Re: Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
Looks like someone put longer hangers on the rear leaf springs and flipped the the front leaf springs so that they arched up for more lift. I would do as SB suggested, put the blocks on the front leaf springs and flip the rear leaf springs above the axle.
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09-27-2013, 05:49 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Brooklyn, Michigan "Home of M.I.S."
Posts: 3,667
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Re: Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
Hmmm electric, I think what they did was flipped the front axle over from side to side and mounted the springs on top the axle. (stock are mounted under the axle) and put longer shackles on the back for the added lift.
In the front you could do what I said, you would have to pull the floor mat up to get to the bolts and use longer bolts to use with the blocks. The back is a different story (electric is different than gas) never lifted or owned an electric but you need to get the springs on top the axle. One way would be with 4 short pieces of plumber pipe to get to the top of the axle then a square plate with four holes and one in the middle for the spring alignment pin (like the stock plate without the shock mounting hole) to set the springs on, then the stock plate on top the springs, bolted together down through the pipe and the plate thats welded on the bottom of the axle. Just an idea and bet others here have some too.. Good luck... SB |
09-27-2013, 06:15 PM | #10 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
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Re: Lift Question/ Wheel Replacement
Right, right... I'm getting it. Would I have to move the rear shocks above the axle also? I am thinking a shock mount hole in the fabbed top plate but you made no mention. Is this necessary?
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Tags |
lift, rims, wheels |
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