Atv steering set up

jdereu

Does anyone have any advice for me to adapt a atv center mount steering to a club cart steering box? I was thinking equal length ties rods to the center mount pivot then add a tab and another tie rid to the cart steering box

BGW

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slonomo

Can you post a pic?

You have to be careful here because if the tie rods are longer than the stock atv tie rods, you will get severe bump steer. The idea of going to an atv type suspension is to get better handling, so if you end up with bump steer you may have something that is unsafe and possibly worse than what you started with. I spent a ton of hours figuring this out first hand, believe me, you don't want that.

What I ended up with was a rack and pinion unit for a sand rail, zero bump steer, and perfect handling. But it required a steering column that has universal joints (from and EZGO) and a custom steering shaft.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/lifte...sion-done.html

jdereu

Well I widened the mounts for the atv suspension as you can see in the pictures. The blue tape is my proposed tie rod set up.

So you think this will work

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slonomo

What kind of atv is this from?

jdereu

Polaris trailboss 250

slonomo

I was trying to locate some of the articles that I have saved from my research on setting up tie rods and bump steer. But I'll try to just wing it here....

It looks like your setup is a McPherson type suspension, which is a very good and simple design. The idea behind this type is that the camber of the wheel/tire is pretty constant through the suspension travel. During max travel there will always be a little bit of positive or negative camber, but during the normal 70% of up and down movement, the steering will be predictable and stable.

The trick for you here is to design your steering system so that the camber stays constant during normal travel. What I see is the inner tie rod pivot point is near the center of the vehicle, but the a arm pivot point is farther toward the outside of the vehicle. Also, the angles of the tie rods are not the same, and they are not parallel to the a arm. This combo will create massive "bump steer".

What you want to create is a system where your inner tie rods connect at or near the same point as the lower a arm pivot point. Then make your tie rods run parallel to the a arm. This will create "near zero bump steer".

The diagrams below will give you an idea of what a proper setup should look like.

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slonomo

I found this in my files. You can play with the lengths of the a arms and tie rods etc. then move the wheels up and down and see how much the camber changes. It's just a fun little tool to help illustrate the concept of "near zero bumpsteer".

http://www.racingaspirations.com/app...try-calculator

jdereu

Any idea how I can move the mounting point for the tie rod out some?

jdereu

I think my best best is a 11" rack and pinion do it right the first time. Where is a place to pick up a cheap one at

slonomo

You won't regret it. It's going to handle like butter and you can steer it with one finger. It'll prob turn on a dime too.

Just do a search on "11 inch sand rail rack and pinion" you'll find lots. I think mine came from Latest Rage, but there are dozens of places that sell the same thing. Don't spend the big bucks on the HD ones, those are for the big sand rails with 4 seats and blown V8's....you just need the $100 one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/11-Rack-Pini...707efe&vxp=mtr

Tie rods, go to Speedway Motors. They have all the ends and spacers etc.

You'll need a steering column with a splined end, just like the EZGO Txt golf cart has (that's what I used). Try to find a whole column with the universal joint and the steering wheel. I got mine used for $100 on here, I just posted on the parts section.

Follow my thread it shows how I did it, really pretty easy. Still working like it did the day it was finished. Everyone comments on how well it handles and steers.

Here's a pic of the parts.

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