Yamaha G2 (Yamster)

toxicwaste29

Hello all; here is my build thread for my 1989 Yamaha G2 I named Yamster.

I picked it up for $40. It was so cheap because the motor was over flowing with water and seized. The condtion of it running was unknown. Also the air box was filled to the top with water. The guy I got it off of had it sitting in his farm for who knows how long before I received it.

Here it is the day I got it:


Within the night I drained all the water out of the case, there was no oil in it at all. I pulled the spark plug and filled the head with pb blaster so it can sit and un seize the motor. Sure enough after it sitting two hours I put a cresent wrench on the starter nut and pulled hard and it busted free. I should have paid attention because it hit the compression stroke and shot the pb out of the spark plug hole all over me. I also cleaned the carb out however when I was putting it back on the carb insulator snapped a stud so I had to order another one. Also in this night I drained all the gas and put in a new fuel filter.

BGW

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toxicwaste29

I started painting the body panels as I was waiting for parts to arrive. I needed a solenoid since mine was bad. I started in the rear and worked my way forward. I pulled everything off including the rear seat support and rocker panels. I used Kryplon cherry red paint for everything; it seems to flake easily so I am assuming the plastic must not fall into the most plastics category that the paint sticks to.



At this point in time I got my parts. A air filter, pre filter, spark plug, key switch (previous owner snapped a key inside it), and a solenoid. I put all the parts on and has to re splice a wire going to the solenoid since it was snapped in two. I also filled the case with some cheap oil for the time being to draw out any water in the soon to come multiple oil changes. It grew dark out and it was late so I had to wait till another day to try starting it.

The next day I tried starting the cart and the solenoid would click however the cart wouldnt turn over. I pulled the dust boot off the starter and sure enough it was sparking and trying to spin however it couldnt. I pulled the starter and it was full of water and the brushes and windings were seized. I cleaned the brushes and windings thoroughly and made sure it would spin on its own. I put the starter back together and installed it. Sure enough the cart started right up and blew tons of water vapor out of the exhaust. After running about two minutes the cart shut off and would keep clicking on and off with the pedal down like there was a loose connection. I would shake the wire harness and it would click on so I went through the harness shaking and squeezing factory splices. Sure enough I found the wire; it was a ground wire going to the starter that had a bad factory splice. I cut the end of the wire and put on a loop connector and attached it direct to the starter stud. Problem solved.

toxicwaste29

Now I finished painting the rest of the cart. I stripped down the nose section and saved the middle section for last. Here is the painted nose section.



I also had to replace the front metal bumper since it was mangled from what looks like someone hitting a tree. I found a used one on ebay for 15$ including shipping. At this time I also installed a 30$ ebay light bar on the front above the bumper. Before it just had one headlight dangling from the cowl. I have an led bar on my atv and they do wonders big time. I also wired on two tailights; I made my own harness for the lights and all in all it took only 30 minutes in the dark since its fall daylight hours now.

Now after about of owning it a week I started stripping the mid section for paint and I found this.



The battery acid rusted through the frame and split the frame in half at this section. Also the battery tray supports were completely gone. I got a section of pipe from a welding buddy; cut it in half and then feed it over the split section of frame. I then made sure the frame was square and welding the pipe over top of the existing section also taking care to weld in new battery tray supports. I also forgot to mention I needed a new battery before I was able to start it.

toxicwaste29

After driving it around some after painting the mid section it became apparent something was wrong with the clutches. I had no torque at all and pretty much had to push it up my driveway. After some help from forum members I found out my secondary clutch helix and sliding sheave were toast.



I ordered the performance kit from cpp along with a new helix. I got it instilled about a week later when I had some time. I had tons of torque making it up hills now.



After driving it down the street some it suddenly started back firing and I realized it was hitting the rev limiter and had a new top speed of 10 mph. I decided to replace the white torque spring since I heard stories of it cracking the machined sleeve. I replaced it with a umax spring in the b-4 spots. I also started hearing a rattle when starting and stopping. I knew what this sound was however didnt want to believe it.



A weight in my primary clutch came loose and broke however my cover was still in tack with no cracks in it. This would explain why my belt would travel more than half way on my primary clutch in full speed neutral.



I also have an issue with my tires being cambered out. I replaced my king pins which took nearly two hours since I had to heat, oil, and hit the king pins with a bfh to remove the old pins. Some forum members are currently trying to help me solve this problem. Currently the cart stands as being completely painted however I still need to figure out the clutch issues.

smokindawg

Looks good for the price and no more than you now have in it.

I'm surprised it ran after setting full of water. I'm even more surprised the engine innards are holding up.

toxicwaste29

^ The pb blaster in the engine is an old hot rodder trick. It almost always works for car engines to un seize them and usually all is good unless the motor was parked because of issues and those issues then reappear.

I had a g1 before that I got for free about two years ago. It was repainted blue and silver by a body shop from the previous owner ( probably original owner). He just said he no longer wanted it so gave it to me. It was in perfect condition. I made a terrible mistake selling it.

For the primary I am most likely just going to buy a whole new clutch. By the time I have the clutch parts and my own labor into it, I would be better just buying a new one. Im waiting until my next paycheck for that.

kogieblack

Looks like a G2 to me.

sho305

The weights are $80 or something, but if the sheave is about worn through they have become really expensive. I rebuilt one years back it was not bad, run like new and still running, new weights and new sheave. But now you can just about buy a new clutch for what the parts are on a G2/9 original clutch like that. It will go better with that clutch fixed. IIRC they will do near 20mph with the governor all in. I gpsed one at 27 with 22 tires with a governor still on it, my G9 would do 31 gps on pavement with no rev limit on 22s.