New G16 build- Vtwin and long travel install

shawn.m

Ok some measurements on the motor. This is really cool. the stock footprint of the 18/20hp motor is really close to the stock footprint of the stock Yamaha motor.
picture of stock briggs footprint

pictures of the stock yamaha motor mount plate matched to the motor. you can see that we are only like 1/2 inch off. So we only need to file out the holes on one side on both plates. What is really cool is that we are already square on the motor mount plates. Then you can also see that the measurement from front plate to rear plate is about 7 5/8, ( the tape is a little off in the picture) about what the motor mount measurements are 7.67" or around 7 5/8 . Almost like it was designed to house a big block
So tomorrow I will file out the two holes about 3/8 and bolt the motor down to the mount plates. Then swing the whole thing into the cart and bolt it down to the motor frame. That will let me measure the bolt to bolt centerline for the clutches and order the belt. Hopefully the clutch will be here early next week

shawn.m

Now another thing when you are building a Big block golf cart on your own is the wiring harness.
the motor I bought came with the complete wiring harness from a garden tractor. However three wires were cut so i have to guess a little bit on the harness. Spent about 3 hours on the Internet looking for wiring harness info. Briggs and stratton doesn't have the wiring harness diagrams anymore. Only has the parts diagram. Did find a great Yahoo group
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/briggs...ttonengineclub
that had a wiring diagram for briggs motor switch keys switches. You need to join as a member and then you can see the briggs wiring book. My diagram was on page 11.
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/cMlvRxb...s%20Wiring.pdf
you can see from the diagram that wiring is really simple. Only 3 wires come off the motor that you need to care about. the Charging wire,kill wire and starter cable
For the starter you can use the stock Briggs starter solenoid or use the stock golf cart solenoid. You will have to switch the solenoid so that it is not always on like stock.

ElC

Sweet!!

shawn.m

I will post some progress photos tonight.

I have the motor mounts filed and bolted to the motor. will post a couple pictures of this.
plates - to show holes filed


in cart

I got my new starter and put that in. the top bolt is a real humdinger.

Next.
Since I had the motor out and UPS came with my Rev kit, clutch, pipe from Cart Parts Plus I went to put the Rev kit in.

Advance key was no problem. I already had the flywheel off to replace the broken starter. Slap in the advance key, rotate the flywheel clockwise to advance the timing, torque down the flywheel.
Exactly how the instruction say to do it.
- forgot to take pictures- trust me it is exactly like the instructions.

Then on to putting in the 2 Valve shims and new valve retainers.
pic of the stock pushrod on the right


Ran into a BIG problem here. The shims were about 1/16 inch too big in diameter. So had to file each of the 8 shims on the outside to fit in the valve bucket. I had space between the shims and the valve stands (sp) just not on the outside to the bucket.
I forgot to get a picture of the before and after for the shims.

I called Tom at CPP and he says never heard of this happening. The motor is a briggs 351447 so notice the motor number if your getting a motor out of something like a tractor. I got this motor out of a lawn and garden tractor so difference might be there.
Got all the shims filed and put the valve retainers back on.
I used a piece of rope stuck in the cylinder to hold the valves up. Worked great on 1 side lousy on the other side. Got everything back together. Silicone the valve cover gaskets and button everything back up.
wheww

now dropped the motor into the cart and onto to seeing what type of spacer I need to put in-between the clutch and motor. The local parts store had some 3/16 thick washers with a 1" id hole in them. Threw about 6 of them on to see what it looks like. Then test fit. looks pretty close right now. I have to get a longer belt than the stock one from CPP or local in the next week.

I think that I am going to also put some 1/4 spacers between the rubber motor mounts and the subframe to raise the motor a little bit. shouldn't make the belt any longer. I could just take the splash guard out from under the motor. However, I run through real muddy stuff in the winter and also drive a lot in brush. Anything is pretty than nothing at protecting the motor.

Have to also stop by local hardware store and get a big bolt to hold the clutch on. supposed to be 4" 3/8 fine thread. Try and guess at the spacing tonight and get that signed off.

Then it will be onto wiring. Have to decide if I want to rip out the stock wiring and use the tractor wiring harness. Or just adapt the stock wiring harness.

The Jakes long travel suspension is supposed to be here tomorrow. I already received the tires and wheels. Have to post a pic of those also.

TheNewGuy

Sounds good so far. I never heard of using rope. Waiting for pics!!!!

Ron

If you can't run with the BIG DOGS...stay on the porch

Please Visit Our Sponsors

TheBadBoyG9 * Frame Mod * New Exhaust
Marathon Project

groundpounder

cant wait to see pics keep us posted

shawn.m

rope in the cylinder is from my dad who was a hot rodder in the 50's.

He handed me a 5hp briggs motor when I was 9 and told me to take it apart. When I could put it back together AND it ran then we would build a go cart.

turnagainhardcore

lookin good!!! thnx for all the pics keep them coming

shawn.m

couple more pics.
Here I am cutting the stock throttle bracket to make the stock golf cart throttle hook up.
notice the area I have outlined in black on the throttle bracket

after cutting



also hooked up gas line reusing the stock filter location

time to go to bed.
next will be motor mounts, clutch bolt and clutch spacing. perhaps even bolt the air filter back on after modifying it for more airflow.

shawn.m

ok tonight brought home some washers for the motor mounts and the clutch. bolted motor down and then did a initial bolt up of the clutch. eye balled it to be straight, wont know more until my drive belt gets here. you can kinda see that the rear clutch doesn't look quite correct. it lost the snap ring on the inside so I will have to pull that off and put in the spacer from my torque kit. wont put in the white torque spring as every one says leave it. out. Hopefully the rear clutch sheaves come off with no issues.



Also a box arrived on my porch- Jakes long travel kit! woohoo
have to throw that on this weekend