MCI's Yamaha G1

mci · 02-20-2013, 01:36 AM

I recently brought home a running 1982 Yamaha G1 that should be a fun project over the next (hopefully) 3 months or so. My goal is to accomplish the following over this time frame: Plowman's top end kit and performance kit (to bring this choked down motor back to life), new crank seals, Jake's 6-inch A-arm lift kit with 400ex shocks, bigger tires and wheels, a new top and a new paint job (likely plastidip). With this in mind here are a few questions that I have for the veterans:

Since it's a 1982 with the J17 motor, I haven't been able to find the year specific service manual for it. I'd like to get a digital version like the ones found on ebay for ~$10. Would the 1983-1989 manual be applicable enough to still be useful?
I talked with the Yamaha mechanic at Plowman's (can't remember his name, but he was great) and he said the top end kit to liven up the J17 will require a different and larger carb that doesn't have the throttle shaft worn out. Does anyone know a specific part number and where I might be able to source one? Used would be cool if somebody has one lying around that they want to sell for a reasonable price.
He (Plowman's) also said that I would need a new larger reed cage assembly (I don't think this is the correct terminology, sorry, I'm reverting to my SuperJet pwc mind). I thought from the J10, but can't remember for sure. Again, if anybody knows part numbers, where I can buy the correct and complete unit, or has the parts in good used condition they want to sell...it would be greatly appreciated.
What size tires can I run using the Jake's 6-inch lift kit and 400ex shocks without modification? 22 or 23?
It seems that with added power, the lift, oversized tires and a back seat it would be prudent to improve braking ability as well. I was reading about the Ausco disc brake kit and one website says they work on the G1. Is this accurate? Are there any other options that aren't as costly? (Understand that I don't want to chintz on safety equipment like brakes, but I don't want to spend excessively if there are more reasonably priced and equally performing products available.)
Finally, based on the list above, if there's anything I'm missing that will slow progress please let me know so I can make sure to include it, thanks.

That should do it for now. This board has already been a wealth of information to me. Hopefully I'll be able to document the progress here and it will be helpful for somebody else down the road.

danman · 02-20-2013, 02:59 PM

Cart looks good

I've got the Jakes 6" on my 83 G1, and I've got 22" tires with plenty of room up front. There is a little bit of trimming in the back that does not effect the structure of the cart. Just the "Rocker panels." 23"s should be able to fit.

I also added drop plates in the front with the Jakes lift, to get a more level lift, that also widened the front 4."

With the Jakes kit, you can use all factory shocks. If you were to go with the 400ex shocks on top of the jakes top shock bracket, you will probably have too much positive camber going on. (tires will lean out at the top like this \ /....)

You should be able to just throw some new shoes in the rear drums, if the drums are in good shape, and still have sufficient enough brakes for the lift and larger tires. I can stomp on my breaks at full speed and lock up the back tires on gravel.

Wish I could help you with the engine questions, but mine wasn't running when I bought it and I just dropped a clone in it

Take a look at my photos if you want to see the lift!

rkuchmak · 02-20-2013, 03:51 PM

I to have the Jake's 6" lift and 22 tires and stock brakes.I do not have any problems stopping with mine.We do a lot of trail riding with steep hills and they work fine

smallblock450sl · 02-20-2013, 08:21 PM

Welcome MCI to BGW! Nothing wrong with the J17 (other then a 1 year low compression engine/reeds/carb/muffler) , It will still do all you want in that form. If you want, you could over bore, new piston and rings, possibly shave the head to get higher compression, but at what cost for gain? If the engine is sound and you "turn up the govenor setting", barbeque the muffler, I think you'll have a great running G1. I recommend sticking with 22" tires even with the Jakes 6" lift, no clearance issues then. I see your in Washington state, If I can ever help, call me at the shop, NW Yamaha Golf Cars in Puyallup. Ask for Dave Good luck on your new toy

mci · 03-06-2013, 08:04 PM

I've made some progress lately (these tiny carts go way quicker than my car projects!), here's some photos of the tear down. I ordered a Jake's 6-inch lift kit, top end kit and performance kit from Don at Plowman's. He's such a great resource and shipping was super fast.

So far I have the lift kit mostly installed but forgot to take photos before putting it away

I'm waiting on the kingpins, bushings and tie rod ends to come so I can finalize the lift kit install and get some decent photos.

I also need to purchase the wheels and tires. Does anybody know where I can buy the Douglas Rockstars (see attached photo)? I've looked all over the place but have only been able to find one site (a non-site sponsor) and they're a little more than I want to spend. I may just end up getting the RHOX Indy's (or similar) in machined aluminum, as they're about $170 cheaper and through a site sponsor.

One other question I had was about upgrading the air filter. I remember reading on some other people's builds that they used k&n (or similar) air filters to help the cart breath better. I didn't have any luck finding a part number through the search function (I don't think it likes the term "k&n"). Is my best bet just to take the stock filter in to the local autoparts store and match up the size? Should I retain the original mesh screen or toss it? Finally, should I keep it in the original plastic canister or is that unnecessary? I don't plan on driving it through big puddles or anything like that, but don't want to risk sucking water into the engine either if I end up driving in the rain.

Thanks

mci · 04-17-2013, 01:16 AM

Finally some more progress. What started as being just a lift kit and some paint kind of grew. I ended up removing the swing arm and stripping 90% of the frame and painting it matte black. Started reassembly now that I have the wheels and the rest of the suspension bits I was waiting for. Got it back to "rolling chassis" status tonight and put the rear end back in as well as started the torque kit installation. Guess I should have read the torque kit installation sticky on here because I got stuck on the new washer/spacer - but I'll get it all in tomorrow afternoon. Threw the body on to test fit to see if any trimming was necessary prior to bodywork. It looks like it all clears so I should be able to start bodywork and painting this weekend and maybe even get the top-end kit installed.

mci · 05-29-2013, 12:41 PM

I'm in the process of getting the motor ready but have gotten stuck. I can't figure out how to access and replace the crank seals. I have the top end removed to install a plowman's top end kit. I've removed as much as I can on the primary sheave side, but can't get any further than in the second attached photo. I have a puller bolt, but it doesn't seem to make a difference in removing the final plate (see green arrow). I've also removed the flywheel, magneto, etc. and the 7 or so screws that appear to hold the cases together, but haven't yet utilized a 3-way puller. I'm assuming I need to separate the cases to remove the existing and install the new crank seals? I've been using the Yamaha repair manual, but the excess of special tools is making this more difficult than I anticipated (despite how simple these little engines are, it's almost more difficult than the old BMW's I'm used to working on).

I've been reading 85.G3's G1 rebuild thread that looks like he's doing the same as me, just a few steps ahead. If I eliminate the oil pump (I'll be running premix), I'll need to fabricate some form of block-off plate, correct?

danman · 05-29-2013, 12:58 PM

You're going to have to order a clutch puller bolt either from Yamaha or online. I got mine for about $40, which is steep if you only need it once.

The bolt slide through the shaft on the clutch and pushes against the crank to back the clutch off. Here's a link to one:

http://blockbustergolfcarts.com/driv...FSRk7AodIVUAXg

mci · 05-29-2013, 11:10 PM

Thanks for the response.

I already have the clutch puller bolt. I threaded it in and torqued it down but nothing happened. I was worried I might be doing something wrong and didn't want to damage anything internally, so I stopped and did a little searching on here. It looked like all was OK, so I went at it again with no luck. I even tried to use an impact wrench but still no progress. Is there a simple way to deliver more torque to the puller bolt without turning the shaft it threads into?

danman · 05-29-2013, 11:32 PM

Hmmm. That is a new one for me. I just used a wrench and mine popped right off, and hadn't been of in 30 years.

Do you have the flywheel chocked so that it won't turn while you are hitting the puller bolt with the impact? Hopefully someone who has had a similar problem will chime in shortly

02-20-2013, 02:59 PM	#2
danman Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Tennessee Posts: 441	Re: MCI's Yamaha G1 Cart looks good I've got the Jakes 6" on my 83 G1, and I've got 22" tires with plenty of room up front. There is a little bit of trimming in the back that does not effect the structure of the cart. Just the "Rocker panels." 23"s should be able to fit. I also added drop plates in the front with the Jakes lift, to get a more level lift, that also widened the front 4." With the Jakes kit, you can use all factory shocks. If you were to go with the 400ex shocks on top of the jakes top shock bracket, you will probably have too much positive camber going on. (tires will lean out at the top like this \ /....) You should be able to just throw some new shoes in the rear drums, if the drums are in good shape, and still have sufficient enough brakes for the lift and larger tires. I can stomp on my breaks at full speed and lock up the back tires on gravel. Wish I could help you with the engine questions, but mine wasn't running when I bought it and I just dropped a clone in it Take a look at my photos if you want to see the lift!

02-20-2013, 03:51 PM	#3
rkuchmak Gone Wild Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Andover,ohio Posts: 209	Re: MCI's Yamaha G1 I to have the Jake's 6" lift and 22 tires and stock brakes.I do not have any problems stopping with mine.We do a lot of trail riding with steep hills and they work fine

02-20-2013, 08:21 PM	#4
smallblock450sl Sometime's............ Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Tacoma Washington Posts: 11,875	Re: MCI's Yamaha G1 Welcome MCI to BGW! Nothing wrong with the J17 (other then a 1 year low compression engine/reeds/carb/muffler) , It will still do all you want in that form. If you want, you could over bore, new piston and rings, possibly shave the head to get higher compression, but at what cost for gain? If the engine is sound and you "turn up the govenor setting", barbeque the muffler, I think you'll have a great running G1. I recommend sticking with 22" tires even with the Jakes 6" lift, no clearance issues then. I see your in Washington state, If I can ever help, call me at the shop, NW Yamaha Golf Cars in Puyallup. Ask for Dave Good luck on your new toy

05-29-2013, 12:58 PM	#8
danman Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Tennessee Posts: 441	Re: MCI's Yamaha G1 You're going to have to order a clutch puller bolt either from Yamaha or online. I got mine for about $40, which is steep if you only need it once. The bolt slide through the shaft on the clutch and pushes against the crank to back the clutch off. Here's a link to one: http://blockbustergolfcarts.com/driv...FSRk7AodIVUAXg

05-29-2013, 11:10 PM	#9
mci Not Yet Wild Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Woodinville, WA Posts: 8	Re: MCI's Yamaha G1 Thanks for the response. I already have the clutch puller bolt. I threaded it in and torqued it down but nothing happened. I was worried I might be doing something wrong and didn't want to damage anything internally, so I stopped and did a little searching on here. It looked like all was OK, so I went at it again with no luck. I even tried to use an impact wrench but still no progress. Is there a simple way to deliver more torque to the puller bolt without turning the shaft it threads into?

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05-29-2013, 11:32 PM	#10
danman Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Tennessee Posts: 441	Re: MCI's Yamaha G1 Hmmm. That is a new one for me. I just used a wrench and mine popped right off, and hadn't been of in 30 years. Do you have the flywheel chocked so that it won't turn while you are hitting the puller bolt with the impact? Hopefully someone who has had a similar problem will chime in shortly

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