2 link rear suspension on EZGO??

ronncat

My 84V AC project is on hold while I order up the motor. As I am itching to practice my newly acquired welding and fab skills, I am considering ditching the rear leafs for a 2 link rear suspension.

Monkey and MazDawg have done this conversion and I am strongly considering following suit. Your opinions????

BGW

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ronncat

No comments/suggestions???

I've decided to forge ahead and build the 2-link rear as others have done. Bought the materials yesterday. Funny thing is, I only needed 3-1/2" of 1.5" round tubing for the bushing holders. No scrap at my supplier, so I had to buy a whole 24' stick. Guess I'll have to think of something to do with the other
23'8"

While I am on the subject, is it possible to build a true 2 link for the front?? My collective suspension knowledge is a big ZERO! I was thinking that arms with bushings on either end that attach on one side to the body and the other at the axle would eliminate my air shocks working against the leaf. The go pedal and brake linkage might have to be modified to work. Also, how would you keep the axle from pivoting forward on the bushing and possibly disconnecting the steering??? Any advice is appreciated....?

1sikcart

in for opinions and results. looking to do the same as you just been to busy at work to get started. other than tearing the cart apart.

p.s. this section has been super dead.

did you cut off the bushings on the rear leafs and use them or did you buy new bushings and weld them to the tubing?

ronncat

I'm fabricating all new trailing arms with new polyurethane bushings. Using 1.5 inch 0.12 tubing to hold the bushings and 1.5" 0.12 square tube for the arms.

sportcoupe

I don't know how your are planning a 2-link because you need a way to keep the rear axle from rotating on takeoff. You can make a 2 lower link and a single upper link (triangulated) which is a true 3 link (no panhard bar).

My custom rear 4 link is here on 1st page. It is lifted but similar principles apply for on-road.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...txt-build.html

ronncat

Actually, as I'm told this isn't really a 2-link...

My friend who fabricates jeep suspensions called it something else because the motor end of the trailing arm is hard mounted to the axle as opposed to using a bushing. He may have called it a ladder or something??? Anyhow, he also was concerned when I told him I wanted to build a 2 link and told me I would need a panhard bar to keep the axle centered. However, when I sketched my proposal for him, he told me that it would probably work without one... but if it doesn't, I'm hoping he will help me design something that will.

Doesn't appear that Monkey's or MazDawg's suspensions have a panhard. I'll probably make it, try it and if it doesn't work, then modify it.

sportcoupe

If you triangulate the lower control arms then you won't need a panhard bar. You will have to have at least 1 upper control arm of some sort even if it's just connected to the lower arms. That type is called radius arm. Post a sketch of your plan if you can.

I too have built jeep suspensions, it's an older hobby of mine.

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sportcoupe

Radius arm links. This one has a panhard because the lower arms are straight, not triangulated.

ronncat

I think I understand what you are describing.
Looking at your picture of the radius arm, it looks as that is designed to keep the pinion angle from changing as the suspension droops and extends

However, since our motor is directly attached to the axle via the tranny, is this even a factor???

I need to pop the rear body off the cart and stare at it and brainstorm where I might add a center link or a panhard bar.

After doing a little more homework on suspension systems, would this be considered a trailing arm setup as opposed to a 2-link since the axle is hard mounted?? Also because this is a golf cart ( hopefully with lots of power though) and the trailing arms are so short, how much lateral deflection on the axle could there be?? Is a pan hard bar absolutely necessary

sportcoupe

The radius arm (or upper control arm) does keep the pinion angle in check but most importantly it keeps the axle from wanting to rotate in the opposite direction as the tires are going. Even though the motor is mounted on the axle itself in a golf cart the rotational forces are still there.

Even with upper control arms the motor will still rotate the axle some in a golf cart. The upper control arm(s) doesn't have to be at the axle housing, it can be a brace from motor to frame but it has to allow suspension up and down movement still.

With no panhard bar the control arms MUST be triangulated or you will get lots of axle side to side movement, un-drivable movement. Short control arms just make for a rougher ride unless they are level installation, longer is better usually.

Just things to think about in suspension design and layout.