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Unread 11-20-2018, 03:08 AM   #1
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
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Default Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

Hi all,

Ok so i have a 2007 club car precedent 48 volt electric 6 seater was all original except after market wheels and tires and custom paint. So heres a list of the upgrades ive done so far

Jakes 6 inch lift kit ( im using this to lower)

Torque and speed upgrade bigger motor and solenoid and new Curtis controller

Custom interior including dash and head liner

I ordered air ride kit from dirty air for a harley bagger with 2 extra air shocks 8 valve set up so it will do front back and all up and dump

All new batteries

And a pretty banging stereo system that includes two component sets two 10s and and a 1100 watt jlhd amp

Single black bar bumper and 7 inch light bar

So far ive modified the front lift kit to work as tubular upper and lower a arms some problems i ran into for the kart to be lowered and to sit frame i couldnt use the stock shock mounts as there only a 3 inch gap between upper and lower shock mounts when the cart is sitting all the way down so i fabbed some let me rephrase im in the process of making them thats not the problem the problem im having is with the steering when the cart goes thru its cycle of travel from up all the way to being layed out im getting the worst bump steering ive ever seen so i cut the mounts off to try to relocate them to fix said steering problem but i cant seem to get the dang geometry right to get to 0 bump steer any pointers would help a bunch i will try to post some pics thanks to all

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Unread 11-20-2018, 07:53 AM   #2
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Denver, NC
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Default Re: Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

Really interested in this thread (I've had the same thoughts of using a lift kit flip/flopped for lowering/air).

This was posted in the rack thread and might be of some help to you.

http://www.longacreracing.com/techni...aspx?item=8162

Note the diagram at the bottom showing proper suspension/steering alignment with unequal a-arms. The tie rod can fall anywhere in between the imaginary lines between the inner pivot of the upper control arm and the inner pivot of the lower control arm. Once that is accomplished, you can then locate the outer tie rod joint in the spindle to align the tie rod angle with the instant center.

Here is a quick pshop estimation of your suspension angles. You can see the angle of the tie rod isn't anywhere close to intersecting with the IC and that's why you have massive bump steer. If I were me, I'd probably look at sectioning those lifted spindles so that the upper/lower arms are much closer to parallel (but not perfectly parallel). That should get the tie rod much closer to intersecting with the IC and then you can play with the steering arm position on the spindle to get the tie rod angle just right. That's at least where I'd start so I wouldn't need to mess with the inner pivot points of the arms, arm length(s) or the steering rack height.
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File Type: jpg BumpSteerIllustration.jpg (180.1 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 11-20-2018, 11:31 AM   #3
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Default Re: Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

Bremsen,

You sir are genius thsts exactly what i was looking for im new to the metal fab world my education is primarily audio and interior stuff but thanks a mill that helps tremendously if i cut down the spindles ill hsve to tap the threads in the ends for the hyme joints not to big a deal ive got it set right now to where its pretty minimal but its deff still there all i did is at ride hight i made the tierod sit as close to perpidicular to the upper control arm as possible theres a range of travel that it dosent bump steer at all but its only like 2 inches or so i would like to get 4 to 5 inches of travel out of it with as little bump as possible im working out the upper mounts for the airshicks now running into a little wall aswell as far as where to set them for best performance ill tell ya dirty air makes a set up i swear was made for exactly this ill take some pics the price wasnt real nice but the componants are perfect as far as size again thanks so much ill keep posting in the thread loads more work to be done i was thinking bout chopping the top what are you thoughts .

As you can see the tank is super small and comes with alm the valves and prewired realky cool shocks have rouphlu 5 inches of stroke pretty cool any pointers would be nice thanks

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Unread 11-20-2018, 03:32 PM   #4
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Default Re: Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

Definitely no genius and I'm still learning about suspension geometry so don't take my words as gospel.

Yeah, I looked at the harley bagger stuff and I even think the shocks might be better valved for a cart than the monroes, but, yeah, huge harley tax. It does look well built and I can appreciate that.

Looking at Pic#3 above, that upper inner arm mount is inboard of the tie rod pivot so even if you have the TR parallel to the upper arm its going to change steering angle as the suspension compresses. That's why you have 2" where it doesn't bump steer, its close. You'll probably need to move that inboard upper arm mount outward so that it lines up with the tie rod pivot and lower control arm pivot (and likely shorten the arm to compensate). I can't tell where that TR pivots on the inboard side with the boot in place but if you hold a straight edge between that lower control arm bolt and the tie rod pivot, that will tell you where that upper mount needs to be. At least, that' the way I understand it.

Once you get that upper arm inline, I think if you cut the spindle so that the upper arm is almost parallel to the bottom arm and then flip the tie rod to the top of the knuckle that should get rid of most of your bump steer.
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Unread 11-20-2018, 07:10 PM   #5
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Default Re: Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

Again man thanks a bunch im not quite grasping what you mean by holding a syraight edge up to determine mount location i guess i would need to see it done or maybe some sort of sketched example would help if you wouldn't mind and again man thanks a bunch

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Unread 11-20-2018, 08:14 PM   #6
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Default Re: Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

The inner tie rod end has to be in line with the inside suspension points. If you draw a line through the upper and lower inside suspension points the rack can not be longer then this imaginary line.

The easiest way to fix your problem would be narrow the rack unit and lengthen the tie rod bar.
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File Type: jpg Rack Set.jpg (8.9 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 11-20-2018, 08:18 PM   #7
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Default Re: Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

But i havent changed that its original in the original location the lift kit i purchased was for this cart the rack in theory should work right where its at other wise if i had installed the lift the way they intended it would do the same thing its doing now

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Unread 11-21-2018, 07:34 AM   #8
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Default Re: Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

Yeah, first rule of aftermarket parts is don't assume its actually engineered properly. Second rule is if you don't install it exactly as engineered, you're on your own to make it work, lol. Maybe when installed as a lift, they were able to keep the bump steer manageable within the desired suspension travel (2-3").


I honestly don't know how/if you can shorten that rack more than it is, but maybe Shepard can offer some advice there. Attached is an illustration of what I'm/we're talking about with a straight edge. The article states that the inner tie rod pivot point needs to land in the same plane as both upper and lower suspension pivots. The green line is the plane between the inner points as is, the red is where I'm estimating that inner pivot (with steering centered) of the tie rod. The blue line is my thought on correcting the issue (moving the upper inner point outward). It appears to me that you could redrill the upper control arm mount to move the upper pivot point outboard and get the tie rod in line. This would add a bunch of static positive camber on the front wheels though, so you would need to shorten the upper arm to compensate and get the static camber corrected.
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File Type: jpg BumpSteerIllustration2.jpg (181.6 KB, 0 views)

Last edited by Bremsen; 11-21-2018 at 07:40 AM.. Reason: changed picture
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Unread 11-21-2018, 01:45 PM   #9
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Default Re: Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bremsen View Post
Yeah, first rule of aftermarket parts is don't assume its actually engineered properly. Second rule is if you don't install it exactly as engineered, you're on your own to make it work, lol. Maybe when installed as a lift, they were able to keep the bump steer manageable within the desired suspension travel (2-3").


I honestly don't know how/if you can shorten that rack more than it is, but maybe Shepard can offer some advice there. Attached is an illustration of what I'm/we're talking about with a straight edge. The article states that the inner tie rod pivot point needs to land in the same plane as both upper and lower suspension pivots. The green line is the plane between the inner points as is, the red is where I'm estimating that inner pivot (with steering centered) of the tie rod. The blue line is my thought on correcting the issue (moving the upper inner point outward). It appears to me that you could redrill the upper control arm mount to move the upper pivot point outboard and get the tie rod in line. This would add a bunch of static positive camber on the front wheels though, so you would need to shorten the upper arm to compensate and get the static camber corrected.

In the picture -- do you have the cart setup in the riding position? The tie rod ends should be on the top and even a spacer to make the tie rod arm level in the operating position. In the picture I posted you can see that the rack would be level if the tires were on and sitting on the floor. There tilted downward just a little till there's weight on the suspension.
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Unread 11-21-2018, 01:53 PM   #10
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Default Re: Slammed and bagged 6 seater cc 48volt

Yes you can shorten or narrow a simple rack like the style we all use. Non-power steering. Disassemble and cut off each end of the rack the desired amount. Drill the ends and tap to desired size. Or have your local machine shop do it If you don't have the tools.
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