Look at this lowered cart - Yamaha Project

garydee · 09-27-2012, 07:36 AM

I have finally moved back to working on my Yamaha electric cart with the plan of keeping it simple; Clean it, Paint it, Lower it, accessorize it.

You experts out there, look at this picture - This is the stance I'm looking for; Standard off-set on the rims, a bit of tall rubber for a smoother ride; wide and under the body - what size rims and tires do you think this thing has or what has worked good for your carts?

Also, any recommendations for fabbing or buying a front lowering kit that will keep the Camber correct.

smallblock450sl · 09-28-2012, 06:23 PM

Lowereing Yamaha's is alot harder due to the coil over shock suspension desighn. But, the rear is cake, just get shorter shocks or relocate the upper shock mount to fit the wheel and tire you want to run. On the front, since the lower control arms/shocks/king pins and bushings control camber, here's what I did. Get the wheels and tires you want, mount them with the front cowel on, remove the upper shock bolt and lower/raise the frame till you get the look you want and take any measurements you can for referance. Remove the front body, move the shock around to see if changing the upper shock mount will get you to "positive or zero" camber. Positive would be better, when you sit in it and drive it, you will lose positive camber. I found that I could "releif cut" the lower control arm (where the spindle attatchment is welded to the boxed lower control arm) and move it up or down to create the camber needed. Then just weld it up. I also highly recommend "packing" the steering box with as much grease as you can. Adjust the pitman set screw till you feel a "bind" when turning the steering wheel lock to lock, then back off the screw 1/4 turn at a time till no binding is felt. Hope that helped some.

garydee · 09-29-2012, 11:31 PM

Thanks for the insights “SB450sl” – I figured the rear would be simple and straight forward. On the front, it sounds like a “Relief cut” may workout. If you have any pictures or links to that it would be great.

I got most of the bodywork off today and you can tell by the pictures we have some rusty areas to deal with around the battery area so some work needed there. I’ll roll it out for a good cleanup tomorrow.

A couple of things to deal with – if you look at the position of the rear axle, it sets pretty far back in the wheel well. With the stock tires on, there is only about a inch or so before it will hit the rear bumper mount. Even with the body on, it appears farther to the rear of the body opening (I have seen other pictures of some stock Yamaha’s that look the same). Looks like I will have to move the rear axle forward just a bit and possibly deal with the bumper mount.

I found a set of 12” on CL for a smoking deal, but they don’t look like they will work for what’s in my mind. They are a 3-4 offset, this makes me realize I will need to source a “centered” or “positive” offset rim. Sources anyone?

smallblock450sl · 09-30-2012, 10:20 AM

Can't help with the wheels, but I can give you some insight on the clearnce issue. That frame has been hit so hard from the back, it bent the frame in. I've seen more then I care to. With a stock 8 inch rim and tire you should have at least "4 fingers" between the tire and the inner fender/frame. I've tried a "porta power", but there just doent seem to be a good place to base the end. So, we chain it up to or forklift and "nail it"!!! Don't like to do that anymore...it can reak havock on your neck

On a side note, here's a picture of a car I built with an old fashion hot rod look, had do do some massaging on the rear frame tube and inner fender, but thougt it turned out cool. Good luck on your build

smallblock450sl · 09-30-2012, 10:56 AM

Do a search in this section, "lowered g16a". Seemed to have lost the build pictures (to many computer crashes), but you'll get the idea of how I did the front lower control arms. I also used some G8a front shocks to lower the rear, super easy.

garydee · 10-02-2012, 07:20 AM

Those carts do look awesome – after inspection of the front arm, I can see how that will work.

Knowing that these carts get the life beaten out of them, I see how easily that rear could be slammed, and slammed, and slammed – Personelly, I would never do that to a cart on the golf coarse

I have some ideas on how to get that pulled out. Being a “budget” cart, we work with what we got!

Back to wheel fitment – finding “zero” or “positive” offset rims without getting new 14” rims will be an expensive task. I’m not too opposed to 14”, but I want a bit more “rubber” sidewall for a smoother ride.

I’m contemplating actually narrowing the rear axle; from what I can find out, Yamaha has a driver’s axle shaft at 18.5” – Pass side at 23.25”. I can take 4.75” out of the passenger side axle tube and use another drivers side axle shaft. Once centered, this will take off about 2 3/8” off of each side. Of course there will be some repositioning of the shocks and mounts.

I then can use a rim with a more negative offset (deeper dish look) or possibly a wider tire on the 3-4 offset rim I have now (like a 255/50-12).

Got the frame PSI washed this weekend and got what was left of the old battery tray out. More measuring this week, building a battery tray and fixing some rust. Let’s see what happens!

smallblock450sl · 10-12-2012, 07:13 PM

Any updates on your lowered Yamaha build?

garydee · 10-13-2012, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smallblock450sl

Any updates on your lowered Yamaha build?

Thanks for asking - here's the issue when your working with "junk" - the hours spent just to get things back to "kinda where it needs to be" before can do the neat stuff!

Got the rusty areas patched up and cut out more rust on the supports and made some new ones (go from the frame to the "kick" side rails). These will also help hold the battery tray.

The battery tray worked out better than I thought it would. Using 2x2 "L" I was able to bend it....at it actual fit! I had only a .5 inch to work with between the battery layout (42.5"+-) and the outside frame rail on the cart (43"). Pictures show it mocked up. Also made a hold-down I'll be finishing today. I'm not to thrilled about using metal for the top hold-down because of being so close to acid and vents, but I could not think of a better solid solution. May coat it with bed-liner or rubberized undercoating.

Have one more battery tray to make for the ACC battery that will mount on the rear swing arm - kinda like it would be in a regular Yamaha setup.

Also planning on making a cover for the bag well, making it more like a trunk. This is were the on-board battery chargers will be. Any suggestions on this would be great. Metal? Plastic? I'll search the forums a bit more - SmallBlock450sl - what did you use on your projects?

I did get some things ordered - The new dash arrived; ordered some digital volt gauges and remote control box (you hill hit a key fob instead of using a key to turn the cart on). Looking and evaluating what marine speakers and amp to use for my bluetooth setup. The control relay and bracket will have to be re-located and the elimination of the charge port will make for the speaker room.

Still debating on the wheel / tire choice - I found out that the cart in the first pictures (the black one) has center-offset 12" rims with 205/40-12 tires. That would be the simple way to go if I could find that size rims (no luck so far) or go 14". The other option (that would be neat) is the narrow axle setup I'm contemplating using a 8" wide rear rim with a 2-6 offset for a "deep dish" effect and still have it within the body.

Sometimes I get carried away with these projects

smallblock450sl · 10-13-2012, 09:24 AM

Glad to hear your building

I personally wouldn't use an extra battery for accessories, I'd just use a high quailty voltage reducer (48 volt to 12 volts). Jakes makes fiberglass trunk lids, the G8 style (like on Wilson) has a spoiler, the G16 style (like Essness old blue car and my Yamahahauler build) does not.

garydee · 12-01-2012, 10:51 AM

Small update - still grabbing parts for the project - just about got them all. SM450 - I went with your suggestion on the reducer - with the stuff we will be running (Bluetooth & amp, under-glows, HID headlights, etc) it only makes sense. I picked up a 30-AMP unit with a internal "on-off" that should work fine. I still needed a dedicated 12-volt source for the key-less "on" switch (key fob) and possible digital amp gauge.

I decided to attempt "wrapping" the cart instead of painting it. After much research, it it looks like these cart body's are made of a plastic much like a car bumper (polypropylene or such). I picked up some "bumper repair kits" to close the unwanted holes. Lets see what happens! Got my wrap, 3M-94 primer and a positive attitude - I hope it turns out ok.

Different thoughts on the trunk - thinking of bending a aluminum or steel panel to cover that area and installing with Duzs fasteners. It does not need to easly open, but just cover the chargers and other things there is no room for elsewhere.

Still searching for the perfect rim - very limited on zero-offset or centered rims at 12" or 14" that aren't just stupidly expensive.

09-27-2012, 07:36 AM	#1
garydee Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 133	Look at this lowered cart - Yamaha Project I have finally moved back to working on my Yamaha electric cart with the plan of keeping it simple; Clean it, Paint it, Lower it, accessorize it. You experts out there, look at this picture - This is the stance I'm looking for; Standard off-set on the rims, a bit of tall rubber for a smoother ride; wide and under the body - what size rims and tires do you think this thing has or what has worked good for your carts? Also, any recommendations for fabbing or buying a front lowering kit that will keep the Camber correct.
garydee Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 133

09-28-2012, 06:23 PM	#2
smallblock450sl Sometime's............ Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Tacoma Washington Posts: 11,874	Re: Look at this lowered cart - Yamaha Project Lowereing Yamaha's is alot harder due to the coil over shock suspension desighn. But, the rear is cake, just get shorter shocks or relocate the upper shock mount to fit the wheel and tire you want to run. On the front, since the lower control arms/shocks/king pins and bushings control camber, here's what I did. Get the wheels and tires you want, mount them with the front cowel on, remove the upper shock bolt and lower/raise the frame till you get the look you want and take any measurements you can for referance. Remove the front body, move the shock around to see if changing the upper shock mount will get you to "positive or zero" camber. Positive would be better, when you sit in it and drive it, you will lose positive camber. I found that I could "releif cut" the lower control arm (where the spindle attatchment is welded to the boxed lower control arm) and move it up or down to create the camber needed. Then just weld it up. I also highly recommend "packing" the steering box with as much grease as you can. Adjust the pitman set screw till you feel a "bind" when turning the steering wheel lock to lock, then back off the screw 1/4 turn at a time till no binding is felt. Hope that helped some.

09-29-2012, 11:31 PM	#3
garydee Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 133	Re: Look at this lowered cart - Yamaha Project Thanks for the insights “SB450sl” – I figured the rear would be simple and straight forward. On the front, it sounds like a “Relief cut” may workout. If you have any pictures or links to that it would be great. I got most of the bodywork off today and you can tell by the pictures we have some rusty areas to deal with around the battery area so some work needed there. I’ll roll it out for a good cleanup tomorrow. A couple of things to deal with – if you look at the position of the rear axle, it sets pretty far back in the wheel well. With the stock tires on, there is only about a inch or so before it will hit the rear bumper mount. Even with the body on, it appears farther to the rear of the body opening (I have seen other pictures of some stock Yamaha’s that look the same). Looks like I will have to move the rear axle forward just a bit and possibly deal with the bumper mount. I found a set of 12” on CL for a smoking deal, but they don’t look like they will work for what’s in my mind. They are a 3-4 offset, this makes me realize I will need to source a “centered” or “positive” offset rim. Sources anyone?
garydee Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 133

10-02-2012, 07:20 AM	#6
garydee Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 133	Re: Look at this lowered cart - Yamaha Project Those carts do look awesome – after inspection of the front arm, I can see how that will work. Knowing that these carts get the life beaten out of them, I see how easily that rear could be slammed, and slammed, and slammed – Personelly, I would never do that to a cart on the golf coarse I have some ideas on how to get that pulled out. Being a “budget” cart, we work with what we got! Back to wheel fitment – finding “zero” or “positive” offset rims without getting new 14” rims will be an expensive task. I’m not too opposed to 14”, but I want a bit more “rubber” sidewall for a smoother ride. I’m contemplating actually narrowing the rear axle; from what I can find out, Yamaha has a driver’s axle shaft at 18.5” – Pass side at 23.25”. I can take 4.75” out of the passenger side axle tube and use another drivers side axle shaft. Once centered, this will take off about 2 3/8” off of each side. Of course there will be some repositioning of the shocks and mounts. I then can use a rim with a more negative offset (deeper dish look) or possibly a wider tire on the 3-4 offset rim I have now (like a 255/50-12). Got the frame PSI washed this weekend and got what was left of the old battery tray out. More measuring this week, building a battery tray and fixing some rust. Let’s see what happens!
garydee Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 133

10-12-2012, 07:13 PM	#7
smallblock450sl Sometime's............ Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Tacoma Washington Posts: 11,874	Re: Look at this lowered cart - Yamaha Project Any updates on your lowered Yamaha build?

Today
BGW	Sponsored Links __________________ This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

10-13-2012, 09:24 AM	#9
smallblock450sl Sometime's............ Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Tacoma Washington Posts: 11,874	Re: Look at this lowered cart - Yamaha Project Glad to hear your building I personally wouldn't use an extra battery for accessories, I'd just use a high quailty voltage reducer (48 volt to 12 volts). Jakes makes fiberglass trunk lids, the G8 style (like on Wilson) has a spoiler, the G16 style (like Essness old blue car and my Yamahahauler build) does not.

Similar Threads
Thread	Forum
ST lowered cart	On Road Golf Carts!
F.s. G16 yamaha gas 1000 obo project cart	Golf Carts and Parts
Here we go! Lowered Cart Build	On Road Golf Carts!
limo lowered cart	On Road Golf Carts!
1984 Yamaha G1 - Project Cart	Members Rides