[yawood]

To wire the sort of thing that FairTax is talking about:

Decide where you want to put the reducer, it is easier to put it at the front of the cart because the wiring will be easier. The +48V wire from the reducer goes to your switch then another wire goes from the other side of the switch to the positive of the pack (the +ve of the first battery). It is important to put an inline fuse in that wire as close to the battery as possible (see the picture). The -48V goes from the reducer to B- on the controller (the Precedent has a black wire with a yellow bullet connector just behind the batteries that connects to B-, I'm not sure whether the DS is the same). The reason for connecting there instead of just to the batteries is that the OBC will then see what is drawn by the reducer and control the charger accordingly to put that power back. If the -ve is just connected to the batteries that power will never be put back and the batteries will eventually become undercharged.

The lights at the front can be a cheap LED light bar and the ones at the rear can be cheap LED truck clearance lights. Both of these are available on eBay or elsewhere for very little money. I have added two additional lights (see picture 3) because I found that the little light bar wasn't very bright. The positive wires from each of the lights join together and connect to the +12V from the reducer and the negative wires from each of the lights join together and connect to the -12V from the reducer. It is safer to put a fuse in the positive wire.

That's all there is to it. The switch needs to be a heavy duty one that can handle the current without melting, the wires do not need to be huge. If you've got a 10A reducer then the 48V wires will carry 2.5 amps so the switch and the wires need to be able to handle about 5 amps. If your reducer is bigger then multiply it up (e.g. 20A reducer needs to handle about 10A and a 30A reducer about 15A). The wires to the lights can be very light because the LEDS draw very little.