I need some feedback on an air compressor

[Kal]

Originally Posted by Dave Box

Both of those compressors look fine, possibly a little too big but that is no bad thing. You did pick up on the fact that they are 230 volts so if you have not already you will have to run a two phase supply. The CFM rating is cubic feet per minute and is an important number. My Kobalt tools require at least 7 cfm so unless you were splitting the line and running several tools I would say you were good to go.

Dave

I have to run 230v, my garage circuit can't handle a bigger compressor on 15A, I trip the breaker all the time. What I'm going to do is tap off the 230v line I use for my welder, not sure if it's 2 phase. Of course that brings up it's own headaches like where to put the dang thing but my choices are limited.... So on CFM rating is the higher the number better or worse? I've never understood that. For example if a paint gun says something like 10 SCFM and the compressor is rated for 15 SCFM is that good or bad? I wasn't planning on splitting the line, didn't even think about it until you guys mentioned it. It's not a bad idea actually....

Originally Posted by pachanga90

A lot depends on what tools,and how much you use them.If you are doing body-work,you want a 2-stage(not just 2-cylinder,but 2-stage,they have 1-large primary-cylinder,and a smaller secondary that increases pressure).For high-demand/high volume(D/A sanders,sand-blasting,etc...)you want a minimum of 60gal,2-stage with 150-175psi,then regulate it down for your tools that need certain requirements.For once in a while,short-duration work,smaller compressors will work,but it will be slower-going for sanding or blastingStay away from direct-drive oil-free units if you are looking for long run-cycles like sanding,they get very hot,and don't last long.I had a 30gal,single-stage Craftsman for a few years,it worked decent for normal stuff like impacts,etc...but sanding killed it.I bought a 1962 Kellogg 2-stage,60-gal.that was like new,and when I'm running a D/A,it will come on,build to 150psi,and shut-down,while sanding.Granted,its' a very large unit compared to what most would use at home,but its' comparable to larger shop-style compressors.I ran a 30gal.Direct-Drive Sanborn in my service-truck,it worked fine for doing tires on big-trucks,just had to wait for it to catch up every few lug-nuts,but it ran a 1" tire-gun.I tried it for sanding once and it wasn't doing well.Line-size matters too,as do couplers.I run 3/8 hoses for normal stuff,1/2" for big-stuff,but I use a larger than normal 3/8"-coupler at the tank,it makes quite a difference(standard couplers are 1/4",and are restrictive).You can run an impact and see the difference with the fittings.At least use the larger fitting at the inlet-end of the hose,then your only restriction is at the tool,which is 1/4" anyway.If the compressor has a Regulated-Manifold,remove the line that feeds it,and "T" it there or use another plugged,spot on the tank to tap in for your supply,alot of those manifolds are ultra-restrictive.My Sanborn couldn't run a die-grinder very well as shipped,I connected direct to the tank and it was great after that.Hope this helps.

The one I got now will overheat bad if I start using it heavy, to the point it doesn't shut down. It's a CH, probably a 20-30 gallon. What I'm going to be doing a lot of is using the cut-off wheels, die grinder with the sanding attachment, and sander. And of course it would be the things that suck a lot of air. I don't use the impact a whole heck of a lot ironically, probably because I can get it done faster with a breaker bar vs letting the compressor build up.

[Kal]

Originally Posted by simple man

Just to add to the others posts, check on the noise level (it should be listed in DB's) on the ID plate. I've had bigger compressors that worked great, but sounded like a train going by! If noise is no concern, great, but if this unit is going to be in your shop I would look into the noise level it will produce.

I never thought about that. I just assumed since it was an oiled unit it would be quieter then my direct unit I got now. Where I have to put this thing is right next to where I'm going to be working.

[pachanga90]

Your welder-circuit will be fine.It should be 220v,1-phase,somewhere from 30-50 amps(normally 40-50).When we wired Dads
shop,we ran a 50amp circuit for the compressor,with a disconnect-lever for the compressor,and a 50amp receptacle for welder.Its' been there since 95'.

[RobCons]

Splicing into the welder circuit is fine. That is how my large CH unit is done. Since I am a one man shop I can't run the compressor and welder both at the same time so it works out. The SCFM number on a tool is the volume of air that tool requires to run, the SCFM number on a compressor is how much air (volume) the compressor will deliver at a certain pressure. Your compressor needs to deliver more than your tool requires. Your air needs to be dry for most applications also. When picking up the compressor the store should have accessories like dryer/filters you can purchase. The compressor will have a typical plumbing diagram with it. Just follow the instructions.

[Kal]

Originally Posted by pachanga90

Your welder-circuit will be fine.It should be 220v,1-phase,somewhere from 30-50 amps(normally 40-50).When we wired Dads
shop,we ran a 50amp circuit for the compressor,with a disconnect-lever for the compressor,and a 50amp receptacle for welder.Its' been there since 95'.

Originally Posted by RobCons

Splicing into the welder circuit is fine. That is how my large CH unit is done. Since I am a one man shop I can't run the compressor and welder both at the same time so it works out. The SCFM number on a tool is the volume of air that tool requires to run, the SCFM number on a compressor is how much air (volume) the compressor will deliver at a certain pressure. Your compressor needs to deliver more than your tool requires. Your air needs to be dry for most applications also. When picking up the compressor the store should have accessories like dryer/filters you can purchase. The compressor will have a typical plumbing diagram with it. Just follow the instructions.

Well, this is good to know. I'm going to have to check to see what my amperage is. And thanks for the info on the SCFM.

[Thatsme?]

A 50 amp breaker is way to big for a compressor purchased at Lowes, Home Depot, or Tractor supply. A double pole 20 is probably enough or 30 amp double pole.
Info only worth what you paid for it.

[Streetbu]

Both of the compressors you listed are rated for 11.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI. Thats fairly typical of your 60 gallon single stage compressor. No matter what you chose, go with the highest CFM, PSI, and tank you can afford. Possibly even an 80 gallon 2 stage. You'll find within a few years you've outgrown a compressor that size and wish you had bought a bigger one. Do it once & do it right!
these are nice for the money. http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...pressor-80-gal
Also search Craigslist, the ones like you are looking at turn up pretty often fro $250-300. Here's the one I bought, wish I had gone bigger :(

[Kal]

That's a nice compressor you got there. Thats also a nice compressor you linked too, and it makes sense to go big, but I just don't have $1k to dop on a compressor right now. :( I think a 60 gallon will suit me for now, the only big stuff I do with it is run the die grinder and stuff. I haven't bought one yet but I'll check craigslist. Things on craigslist in my area tend to be higher then they are worth though. Carts are a perfect example. Carts that are beat to hell and with dead batteries are about $600 on average when they should be around $100-$200.

[Streetbu]

I searched Craigslist for months looking for one, all I could find were too big or too small. Bought the one shown at Tractor supply for $589 under my buddies farm account so I didn't have to pay tax :) Next week there were several for sale just like I wanted for $250-300

[Streetbu]

Oh and if you plan on plumbing your shop, pretty much double the price of the compressor for all the parts you'll need to do it and you'll be about right. I did it right with 3/4" pipe, pipe stands, drops, ball valves, hose recoil etc. Even used tee's were it ended so if I ever want to add on all I have to do is unscrew a pipe plug and keep going!