98 gas EZGO runs then sputters out

[Canucgolfer]

Cart runs good for 5 holes then out of the blue sputters out and dies. Engine turns over but doesn't fire up. This may be a previous thread but I was unable to Find it. Checked for spark and seems ok. Could it be something that is causing the spark to periodically cut out? Can smell gas so am confident that is not the ussue. Carb cleaned in the spring, New fuel pump/gas lines and filter. Just confused at this point

[Styles]

I'm having the exact same issue on my 97. I drive from my house about 3 min to the clubhouse, play about 1 or 2 holes.... then go to leave, push gas, the starter motor is going but not firing.

After yours sits for the rest of the day does it run fine again for a few?

I hope someone can reply to this with some help for you (and I)!

[CP241]

You'll want to check spark when it is in a failed state. a failing ignition coil can do exactly what you describe, but after even just a few minutes of "cool down" time it will spark again fine. You'll want to carry a spare spark plug with you and when it dies, pull the boot, plug the extra plug in and touch the threads to metal and try to start it. should be a fat blue spark. if it's not big and blue, it may be sparking, but not strong enough for it to run.

Another common problem i've seen is next to the battery there is a vertical plate with some electronic gizmos on it. This is your solenoid, ignitor, etc. The ignitor gets its ground THROUGH where that vertical plate mounts to the metal body below it. They tend to rust/corrode underneath that plate so it doesn't make contact, and thus has no ground. Remove the plate (should just be 2 bolts, the nuts are down below you'll have to hold them with a wrench) and use a wire wheel to clean it down to bare metal on both the body and the plate. Then bolt it back in place. I always ran a ground wire from one of the mounting bolts direct to the negative battery terminal just for a little extra reassurance.

[Styles]

Originally Posted by CP241

You'll want to check spark when it is in a failed state. a failing ignition coil can do exactly what you describe, but after even just a few minutes of "cool down" time it will spark again fine. You'll want to carry a spare spark plug with you and when it dies, pull the boot, plug the extra plug in and touch the threads to metal and try to start it. should be a fat blue spark. if it's not big and blue, it may be sparking, but not strong enough for it to run.

Another common problem i've seen is next to the battery there is a vertical plate with some electronic gizmos on it. This is your solenoid, ignitor, etc. The ignitor gets its ground THROUGH where that vertical plate mounts to the metal body below it. They tend to rust/corrode underneath that plate so it doesn't make contact, and thus has no ground. Remove the plate (should just be 2 bolts, the nuts are down below you'll have to hold them with a wrench) and use a wire wheel to clean it down to bare metal on both the body and the plate. Then bolt it back in place. I always ran a ground wire from one of the mounting bolts direct to the negative battery terminal just for a little extra reassurance.

Interesting! Since last night I've been thinking it was a fuel issue as it will sometimes get going if I mess with the choke.

Also I want to say to CanucGolfer- I in no way want to highjack your thread, but want to add to it to help.
With that said can you share what you've done so far to troubleshoot on yours?
On my end I have only owned the cart for a few weeks. Picked it up from a shop it was sitting at as it had the steering box replaced and the carb cleaned. It ran fine for 1 round of golf then this issue started.
So far I've replaced the starter/generator and the battery both with new parts.

[CP241]

STyles,

Did you use an OEM starter/generator? If you got the aftermarket one, then make SURE you hold on to your OEM one. You will need it in the future when the aftermarket one eats itself (it will happen). Usually the only thing you need for the S/G is a new set of brushes once every 10-15 years and they keep going strong

[Styles]

Originally Posted by CP241

STyles,

Did you use an OEM starter/generator? If you got the aftermarket one, then make SURE you hold on to your OEM one. You will need it in the future when the aftermarket one eats itself (it will happen). Usually the only thing you need for the S/G is a new set of brushes once every 10-15 years and they keep going strong

Great tip there. I did get an aftermarket version (Amazon $100). I have my old one and will clean it up and put new brushes in it. Obviously I’m throwing parts at it here and the s/g wasn’t the issue[emoji53] as well as the battery.


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[Canucgolfer]

Here is what we did at the beginning of this year as this is a carry over from last. Pulled the engine right out of the cart. Pulled the carb and cleaned it. Changed the oil. Blew out the air filter. Changed all the fuel lines and filter. Changed the fuel pump as thought that may have been the issue. We were just fooling around with it and pulled the air filter. Just to see if the air box was pulling air may chum put his fingers in the area that is connected to the carb to check for suction. To our surprise the cart fired right up. We also pulled the plugs and checked for spark. Had mixed results with spark and without. Our thought was we just had the plugs on a bad area of the block.

So we check for air going into the carb as mentioned earlier and it fired. Problem solved, it's a dirty/clocked air filter. We take it out the next day for a round with the filter out. Runs deadly for 5 holes the sputters out and dies. Finish the round with a rental and still no fire when we went to load it back up. Cart turns over no problem and floods the plugs if you go too long. Also changed the brushes last year

Instead of punching my cart in the face I decided to post a thread. I did in my travels see another post with similar symptoms and the end result turned out to be the coil. That's what I'm thinking now. I know a guy that may have a spare to test against mine but that's where I'm leaning.
Thanks for all the replies, all the suggestions are very helpful. Hopefully I gave enough details to help facilitate a solution
Cheers

[CP241]

It may be a coil. And if so, make SURE to get an OEM coil. If you get an aftermarket coil you'll be not much better off than you are now.

However

I would first check as I described above. If the ignitor plate doeant have a great ground it will behave very much the same way. Cleaning a ground is free and only takes a half hour or so. As opposed to $125ish for a new ignition coil. I like free fixes much more than the ones in have to pay for

[Styles]

Originally Posted by CP241

It may be a coil. And if so, make SURE to get an OEM coil. If you get an aftermarket coil you'll be not much better off than you are now.

However

I would first check as I described above. If the ignitor plate doeant have a great ground it will behave very much the same way. Cleaning a ground is free and only takes a half hour or so. As opposed to $125ish for a new ignition coil. I like free fixes much more than the ones in have to pay for

It’s crazy to think of the ignitor plate. I can go out and jump in the cart and it fires right up. Drive it for 20 min or so. Then go to leave and “bup bup bup bup bup bup “ ( that’s my starter sound clip[emoji1787]) and no fire. Let it sit for longer and play with the choke and it will sputter and then go! I’m good with throwing some free parts at it like you said. It’s just so frustrating cause there’s not much to these carts! I was an R&D automotive engineer for 9 years [emoji1787] but I’m a fuel injection guy that like stand alone ECU’s.


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[Styles]

Here’s after the new coil. I got it running to take a trip around the block. But as soon as I stoped to test if it would go..... it didn’t and I had to push it back into the garage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcPMaVy4j0o


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