Comet clutch help Yamaha g2

[Bbeads32]

Yes it had dust cover on it but it was mounted different then my friends Yamahas. Mine had Allen screws to where there’s have Phillips

[slonomo]

Use a Scotchbrite pad to remove the rust. You don't want to get aggressive. Also use the pad on the sheave face to get that clean. Soap and water first, get all the mud and grease off of it, then use the pad.

When you assemble it, make sure all the pucks face the same and correct direction. Do not remove any pucks, keep it all stock.

[Bbeads32]

What would cause it to be jerky when I try to go once the cart is running?

[Bbeads32]

What kind of grease should I put on it?

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by Bbeads32

What would cause it to be jerky when I try to go once the cart is running?

Poor clutch condition and/or belt. The clutches and belt control the "take off" of the cart. The engine runs/spins, the clutches transfer the power from the engine to the trans/axle. If the clutches/belt are in poor condition it will affect that transfer of power.

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by Bbeads32

What kind of grease should I put on it?

You don't just put grease on the clutch, be very careful where you put it. DO NOT put grease on the belt or the surfaces of the clutches that touch the belt. I've seen people do this. This will ruin your belt and will surely be a mess.

If you don't have a service manual, please get one. It will tell you how to maintain the clutches, as well as everything else. Each cart is different and it's difficult to teach someone how to maintain every aspect of the cart. Anyone who services their own vehicles really should own a service manual so they don't do the wrong services or do the services incorrectly. We can help you through it, but get the service manual so you know what you're working on.

The part of the clutch that needs lubrication is the shaft where the sheaves slide. Usually the clutch needs disassembled to do this. Sometimes there is a grease fitting. Part of maintaining the clutches is to clean the moving parts and lube what is required. Dirt and rust and lack of lube will cause the clutches to stick and not work properly.

[Bbeads32]

Thank you for the info. This duster clutch has no grease fitting and I cant find a service manual for it. Why I came to this form to try and get answers. The jerky start is why I’m taking this clutch apart. The rear clutch is band new everything. Both belts are brand new. Still had the jerky start. Which lead me to taking this duster clutch apart. To see what’s wrong. I’m getting mixed things on what to do? To me grease shouldn’t be apply anywhere there isn’t a grease fitting. As to the pucks being weighted and the clutch being tune is great. But I really don’t want to put this thing back together to just take it back a part again. If that’s what’s going to happen I’ll just throw it away and buy oem and be done with it. So is the very little surface rust inside the clutch. On the spring and shaft causeing the jerky start ? Or does it need tunned for a lower rpm?

[slonomo]

Originally Posted by Bbeads32

Thank you for the info. This duster clutch has no grease fitting and I cant find a service manual for it. Why I came to this form to try and get answers. The jerky start is why I’m taking this clutch apart. The rear clutch is band new everything. Both belts are brand new. Still had the jerky start. Which lead me to taking this duster clutch apart. To see what’s wrong. I’m getting mixed things on what to do? To me grease shouldn’t be apply anywhere there isn’t a grease fitting. As to the pucks being weighted and the clutch being tune is great. But I really don’t want to put this thing back together to just take it back a part again. If that’s what’s going to happen I’ll just throw it away and buy oem and be done with it. So is the very little surface rust inside the clutch. On the spring and shaft causeing the jerky start ? Or does it need tunned for a lower rpm?

Here you go

http://www.vintagesnow.com/Clutch_fi...0and%2094C.pdf

[slonomo]

It's hard to tell you what to do, but I never liked the 94c clutches. Some people like them. I had a couple and could never get them to do what I wanted them to do. They are tunable. Adding heavier weighted pucks will change the engagement rpm to be lower. Taking away weight in the pucks will make it rev up more before engagement. If you have a stock engine, those like to engage at around 1800 rpm or so. If it's engaging any higher you will feel it, almost like it's in neutral and you drop the clutch. I never liked that feeling on a cart.

The better clutches use rollers, very smooth engagement, and never need tuned if you buy the correct clutch. Spending $250 or more on a clutch may not be in your plans, but if you get a stock roller type clutch you'll not regret it.

No you can't grease those pucks. Some guys use dry lube graphite on them, but you're not supposed to. They are made of a plastic material that is supposed to slide in the grooves without lube.

The only place you can lube that clutch is on the shaft where the outer sheave slides, and use just a tiny bit of high temp wheel bearing grease. I stress "TINY BIT". The shaft should be clean, shiny, without any rust or blemishes.