98 gas EZGO runs then sputters out

[Styles]

Originally Posted by trig123

Well, plug one back on the spark plug and test it with your new tester and post the results.

Tested with one plug wire at a time with other wire connected to the plug. No spark.
I have no idea why it randomly fired up and ran last night. Around the block once then back to being dead. What are the red and white wires from the coil connected to? As in what is the component?
Did you see my comment up there about the voltage reading on those wires at 2.8?


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[trig123]

Most of the time there is a broken or loose Connection , or plate where ignitor is mounted being rusty and you don't get a good ground. I also always look at the pins where the pulser coil comes from under fan cover. Unplug it there a look to make sure the female pins have not spread open.
Here is the answer to your question in the diagram.
I didn't see the 2.8 volts you were referring to.
Put your spark tester back on one of the wires with the other plug wire left on. Wiggle the connection coming from fan cover. That is your pulser wires. See if it fires and then quits.
You say it is not firing now. Leave the red and white wires on the coil and stick the sharp end of a test light to terminal that white wire connects to. Does the test light flash ?

[Styles]

Originally Posted by trig123

Most of the time there is a broken or loose Connection , or plate where ignitor is mounted being rusty and you don't get a good ground. I also always look at the pins where the pulser coil comes from under fan cover. Unplug it there a look to make sure the female pins have not spread open.
Here is the answer to your question in the diagram.
I didn't see the 2.8 volts you were referring to.
Put your spark tester back on one of the wires with the other plug wire left on. Wiggle the connection coming from fan cover. That is your pulser wires. See if it fires and then quits.
You say it is not firing now. Leave the red and white wires on the coil and stick the sharp end of a test light to terminal that white wire connects to. Does the test light flash ?

WOW. Okay, when I wiggle the White wire on coil I can get it to run!!! So last night when I used the volt meter on the coil I moved the connector a little to get the test meter pin to make contact. That movement got it going.

So Trig, with what you wrote above and me finding the wiggle white wire. What would you recommend next? I’m thinking replace the spade connector on the white wire. Then take the air box off to access that harness and check the wires all the way back.

Also- thank you for the pic of the diagram!

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[trig123]

Yes, you are getting close. The wire on coil could very well be your problem but I would check all those connections and wires. That's all it takes to drive a sane man goofy

[Styles]

Canuc- any updates on yours yet?!


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[Styles]

After wiggling wires and testing continuity in the coil wires and pulser wires. I think the issue is the ignitor. I think this because it has issues running after it gets warm.

This first video is after getting it running perfectly and driving around for about 20 min. This is what it does when it doesn’t run.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WUSF26qyEE

This video is directly after the first video and just from wiggling some wires it fires but has to push through some hesitation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDWLbkkNk5M

What are your guys thoughts on the idea of the ignitor? Sometimes tapping on the ignitor will get it going. I had an old car that had a failing ignitor and it would run a little when you hit it [emoji1787].



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[trig123]

When it runs like this does it stop firing ? have you checked it with the spark tester ?
This is not a common issue with the ignitor. Normally when an ignitor is bad they usually spark one time when you first push pedal.

Not all the time especially if for some reason the ignitor was burned up by user like starting the engine with a 220 amp battery charger set to start instead of charge. I messed up once but only once doing that. I assume this why I trashed the ignitor but I just won't do that again. These things are $$$$$

Can you do a video with spark tester connected and let us see if fire is indeed the problem. Do a close up so we can see it.

Also you have the red wire connected to the plus side of the coil. Remove both of those wire, white and red from coil and stick a meter or test light to the white wire and you will see the white one is hot when you spin engine over. . Not the red one.

The coil should have a + and - stamped in top . See which one yours is connected to. They will run both ways but the right way is white wire to plus. Let me clarify. The wire connected to the solenoid should be connected to the + of the coil for optimum voltage.

I made a quick video of an engine I just got running after a total rebuild this PM. As you see the white wire is hot and if I connect it back to coil and push pedal it flashes, not a steady light. If it don't flash then its not firing. This video might not show the flash but its there when spinning the engine over. Got to be connected to coil when doing this test.

I cannot say enough on the bracket that holds the ignitor being rusty and cause a no fire condition. I know CP241 has had that to happen. Most people that don't work on these carts all the time ignore that part but it is very important the grounds are clean.

Show your video with spark tester connected so we can see exactly if fire is your problem. Hope this helps some. Tom

See video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvbxmxSMF28

[Canucgolfer]

Just got cart back to my place. I think I found the problem in a minute thanks to all the great info you all shared. Just to refresh. Would run for a while then sputter out and die. Then just continue to turn over till the plugs are soaked. Anyway I turned it over and it fired but was sputtering and never got to proper running rpm's. I start moving around the white (positive) wire on the coil and she picked up right away. I think I may have the culperate. Now is it just the connector on the end of the wire or the wire itself? Both red and white seem a little sloppy. I put my meter on the 200 ohm's setting and it shows 3.6 which is good according to another post I saw. I will run a ground wire from the batt neg to the grounding plate bolt as a precaution. Only thing now once I change the connectors is to try it out and see what the results are. Hoping this is it. Just to make a point about this forum is, I would have never thought to just move the white wire around on the coil if someone hand't mentioned it.
Well done gents and thanks

[Styles]

Good luck Canuc! I hope you get yours dialed in.

Here’s an update on mine. I’ll let the videos show what I have. This is after just a short 10 min drive home from the course.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vH4cXLm5Ts

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUrTAFxuSxM



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[Canucgolfer]

Real quick, as I mentioned earlier. I ran a new ground from the batt neg to the grounding plate as I just couldn't wait to do it tomorrow. Anyway. Fired it up after and straight to full rpm's. I even had a hard time getting to sputter when wiggling the white wire on the coil. I did eventually get it to sputter but seemed more responsive. Anyway the real test will be when I take it for a rip on the course.
Styles your symptoms from the vid are weird but I'm no mechanic. Hope we get you a solution