Gas G2 starting problem

[TROUBADOUR]

I've been reading on starter problem threads and they've helped, but I hoping for a quick answer here:

I've been having starting problems off and on for a while. Always seem to have good voltage at the battery (12.4 and better). I've removed the battery cables and cleaned them up with wire brush and baking soda/water. I get a good "click" when trying to start, and sometimes the engine will make one revolution, and then nothing.
Voltage across battery drops to about 4.2 volts when I press the accelerator. Does that indicate weak battery or high resistance in the starting circuit? What is the next test I should try? So many different testing methods/procedures in the archives I get lost! :-(

Thanks.

[joe_avg]

How old is the battery? Living out here 4 years is about it for battery life and it's ability to crank effectively.

[TROUBADOUR]

Age is unknown -- it came with the cart when I bought it about 1.5 years ago. I have another battery on the charger right now --- battery hasn't been used in about 2 years but was only a couple months old when I parked the truck. I'll give it a try. If it doesn't hold a charge I'll pull one out of one of my old Subarus ... I know they start OK.

[joe_avg]

Let me know if it works, I've got no spares.

[TROUBADOUR]

New battery does the same thing. Voltage across battery terminals is 12.7. Push accelerator and it drops to 3.6 - 4.2 volts after turning about 1/2 spin (slowly). After the first attempt I get no spin until it sits for a while.
Need to do some more thinking on this one.

[TROUBADOUR]

Hooked up 2 fully charged batteries --- no change. Solenoid clicks (sometimes), starter motor will turn engine over once ... then nothing. Get 12.7 volts at solenoid so I know it isn't the battery or the switch (key). Bad accelerator pedal switch? Maybe it gets too hot? Maybe solenoid? maybe starter motor?
What is next to test? How should i do it? Can I pull the solenoid out and replace it with one from a car as a temporary test?

[Mike Mac]

Need to take both "charged batteries" to auto parts store and have them load tested. If they test good, (which I don't think they will) then you have other serious load problems. Or need to look at starter.

Buy new battery cables as well. If you need to clean cables, they are bad anyway. And don't put those bolt on battery ends, on ether.

If batteries test good, follow sticky; "so your yami won't turn over". Someone will walk you through it.

[TROUBADOUR]

Good advice! I took both batteries in and had them tested --- both showed 12 + volts. One that claimed 450 CCA showed 115 amps. The other claimed 575 CCA and it showed NOTHING! I'll try another battery as soon as I can get one I KNOW is good ... maybe pull one out of my trusty old '65 Ford dump truck!
Or could I use my marine deep cell battery just for a test? Would it hurt the battery?

[smallblock450sl]

Originally Posted by TROUBADOUR

Good advice! I took both batteries in and had them tested --- both showed 12 + volts. One that claimed 450 CCA showed 115 amps. The other claimed 575 CCA and it showed NOTHING! I'll try another battery as soon as I can get one I KNOW is good ... maybe pull one out of my trusty old '65 Ford dump truck!
Or could I use my marine deep cell battery just for a test? Would it hurt the battery?

You can test with the deep cycle battery, but I would not use a deep cycle battery, they take to long to recharge (I've seen 30 minutes before they recharge @14.5 volts and that's if your running the engine for that long). Buy a new Group 24 (size of battery) and at least 500 CCA, More CCA the better if you can afford it) when the engine stops on compression stroke, witch it will, you need all the CCA's you can get. No way a "good" battery would drop from 12.5 volts to 4.5 volts under a load. Good luck