48 Volt Upgrade Steps

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by jakesnake27

Yep I think you're good. A DCS is a sepex drive system, so the directional switching should be done by the controller, if I'm not mistaken.

it is true, the controller does the switching.....however you do still have the handle by your knee.....and behind it are some microswitchs (the hockey puck - later model DCS) BUT either way......you can do an upgrade and use a switch similar to the one on the dash to get rid of all that. I just did that conversion on my build of my DCS. The switch replaces the handle by your knee. here are the two wiring diagrams for the switch, depending on whether you have a late or early DCS. and the housing/switch and with it installed.

DCS FNR using DPDT switch.jpg DCS with DPDT FNR switch.jpg F&R Mount.jpg F&R Switch.jpg PIC30.jpg

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by Jump141

Are these steps the same for a 2001 TXT conversion to 48v? Any recommendations on 8v batteries?

Jump, these guys will be better able to help you if you start your own thread. They'll need some details like which drive system you have and which controller. The above information will help you to a point, but those other things matter. To that point, on my series txt, I also had to have a new resistor.

[DestinBeachBuggy]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

it is true, the controller does the switching.....however you do still have the handle by your knee.....and behind it are some microswitchs (the hockey puck - later model DCS) BUT either way......you can do an upgrade and use a switch similar to the one on the dash to get rid of all that. I just did that conversion on my build of my DCS. The switch replaces the handle by your knee. here are the two wiring diagrams for the switch, depending on whether you have a late or early DCS. and the housing/switch and with it installed.

Attachment 156672 Attachment 156673 Attachment 156674 Attachment 156675 Attachment 156676

@Nuke, I like that idea of moving the switch. The stock one is a hassle, hard to move and I am going to do a body kit upgrade anyways. Thats a perfect time to cut new holes.

[yurtle]

It's just my personal preference, but I prefer the location of the FNR near my knee. I'd have to lean forward to change directions, which is one reason I installed my radio on an overhead console, rather than in the dash.

I think I remember seeing a toggle switch that could be installed in the same place as the FNR handle, but with three passengers in front, I'd be worried a leg might accidentally bump it.

[kernal]

yurtle has a point. Dogs also can step on the switch. Although, there are thousands of Club Cars in my area, most all with that or similar switch in that location and doesn't seem to be an issue. If you think it might be a problem, you could mount it upside down. You could even swap the wires so a left click is still forward.

If you are changing to 8v batteries, they have the posts on the same side instead of opposite sides like 6v batteries so your connecting wires might not reach. The original battery hold down will fit with some trimming.

I you use one of those segmented state of charge meters, they are usually voltage specific. If you have a digital meter it shouldn't be a problem.

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by DestinBeachBuggy

@Nuke, I like that idea of moving the switch. The stock one is a hassle, hard to move and I am going to do a body kit upgrade anyways. Thats a perfect time to cut new holes.

No need to cut any new holes. you screw the new mounting bracket (pictured above) in the stick location covering the hole for the levers shaft....and the wires feed thru it to the switch.....

Originally Posted by yurtle

It's just my personal preference, but I prefer the location of the FNR near my knee. I'd have to lean forward to change directions, which is one reason I installed my radio on an overhead console, rather than in the dash.

I think I remember seeing a toggle switch that could be installed in the same place as the FNR handle, but with three passengers in front, I'd be worried a leg might accidentally bump it.

I too like the switch by my knee for the same reason as yourself, which is why I installed it there, just like a CC. During my build I ran across a thread about the conversion and Johnnie posted up the above electrical drawings.

and as kernel mentioned, you can easily mount the switch upside down and turn the switch to make the F/R on the correct side....piece of cake!!

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by DestinBeachBuggy

Currently have a Medalist 36V DCS. Thinking of making the switch to 48V, but wondering what is needed. Besides the obvious battery change, anyone have a list of the needed changes? I have already done a motor upgrade with PlumQuick and have a 400 Amp XCT controller and upgraded solenoid. I am hoping the controller can run with both 36 and 48...

If your upgraded solenoid can operate on 48v you're fine, if not, it needs to be changed also.

[DestinBeachBuggy]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

No need to cut any new holes. you screw the new mounting bracket (pictured above) in the stick location covering the hole for the levers shaft....and the wires feed thru it to the switch.....




I too like the switch by my knee for the same reason as yourself, which is why I installed it there, just like a CC. During my build I ran across a thread about the conversion and Johnnie posted up the above electrical drawings.

and as kernel mentioned, you can easily mount the switch upside down and turn the switch to make the F/R on the correct side....piece of cake!!

@Nuke, what model switch is that off of to be able to track one down? I did searches today but didn't see the exact one. I like how clean and compact that one is.

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by DestinBeachBuggy

@Nuke, what model switch is that off of to be able to track one down? I did searches today but didn't see the exact one. I like how clean and compact that one is.

Its the "F&R Rocker Switch For Club Car Model Precedent & DS Electric 1996 & Up" there are two different ones ensure you don't mess up and get the "F & R Rocker Switch Club Car Electric Model Precedent 2004 & Up"....

The FIRST one (correct one) has 6 spade connections on the back of the switch....

the SECOND one only has 3 spade connections and won't work.

I KNOW......I messed up and bought the wrong one first. lol

AND you need to get the switch HOUSING as well....it works with either switch.....and they are only like $5

[DestinBeachBuggy]

@Nuke, thanks for all the help.