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Unread 02-15-2020, 10:54 PM   #1
hotwls13
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Default LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

Iím in need of some lights on my 2008 DS 48v (4x12). I donít need brake lights, blinkers etc. doesnít need to be street legal, just some lights so we can be seen at night.

My thinking is I will need the following:

- voltage reducer
- front led light
- rear led light
- 12v toggle switch
- some 14/16ga wire
- in-line fuse

Am I missing anything?? Trying to keep this as cheap as possible, plan to mount a single led light for the front (mounted above the front bumper), the rear will be a single red strip mounted to the rear bumper.

I donít think I need to go full fuse box as this is the only thing I plan to run off of 12v. Possibly in the future I may change my mind. At that point Iím sure I could add the fuse box up front in a glove box etc.

Am I missing anything?

I think I can do all of the above for less than $50.

I have no plans to add other electronics
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Unread 02-16-2020, 06:26 AM   #2
Goober11
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

I would go with a 48 to 12 reducer the five wire type. Fifth wire goes to key switch. That is a signal wire to cut reducer on and off. Cheaper ones only have four wires and stay on all the time, and that will put a draw on your pack.
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Unread 02-16-2020, 08:40 AM   #3
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

You can use the cheaper reducers, just put a switch on the 48v side. I have a couple carts with the $20 reducers from the jungle. Have the 48v side fused and a switch on the dash. The lights are connected straight to the 12v side. There’s about a half second delay from flipping the switch until the lights turn on, but they’ve been that way for over 2 years now.
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Unread 02-16-2020, 09:29 AM   #4
hotwls13
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairtax4me View Post
You can use the cheaper reducers, just put a switch on the 48v side. I have a couple carts with the $20 reducers from the jungle. Have the 48v side fused and a switch on the dash. The lights are connected straight to the 12v side. Thereís about a half second delay from flipping the switch until the lights turn on, but theyíve been that way for over 2 years now.
I like that option. Iíve seen the reducer close to the batteries. Usually mounted under seat in battery compartment. By using the switch and fuse on the 48v side, where would u put the reducer? And if I put the light switch on the dash, how would I wire that?

Or with 48v switch do I put the reducer in the dash close to the switch?

Simpler option would be to mount the switch near f/r switch?
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Unread 02-16-2020, 03:17 PM   #5
yawood
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

To wire the sort of thing that FairTax is talking about:

Decide where you want to put the reducer, it is easier to put it at the front of the cart because the wiring will be easier. The +48V wire from the reducer goes to your switch then another wire goes from the other side of the switch to the positive of the pack (the +ve of the first battery). It is important to put an inline fuse in that wire as close to the battery as possible (see the picture). The -48V goes from the reducer to B- on the controller (the Precedent has a black wire with a yellow bullet connector just behind the batteries that connects to B-, I'm not sure whether the DS is the same). The reason for connecting there instead of just to the batteries is that the OBC will then see what is drawn by the reducer and control the charger accordingly to put that power back. If the -ve is just connected to the batteries that power will never be put back and the batteries will eventually become undercharged.

The lights at the front can be a cheap LED light bar and the ones at the rear can be cheap LED truck clearance lights. Both of these are available on eBay or elsewhere for very little money. I have added two additional lights (see picture 3) because I found that the little light bar wasn't very bright. The positive wires from each of the lights join together and connect to the +12V from the reducer and the negative wires from each of the lights join together and connect to the -12V from the reducer. It is safer to put a fuse in the positive wire.

That's all there is to it. The switch needs to be a heavy duty one that can handle the current without melting, the wires do not need to be huge. If you've got a 10A reducer then the 48V wires will carry 2.5 amps so the switch and the wires need to be able to handle about 5 amps. If your reducer is bigger then multiply it up (e.g. 20A reducer needs to handle about 10A and a 30A reducer about 15A). The wires to the lights can be very light because the LEDS draw very little.
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Unread 02-16-2020, 07:29 PM   #6
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

The two I did on our Precedents, I have 48+ coming from the pack+, to 10a weatherproof fuse holder, then to a switch on the dash, in the factory switch position. There was a little marker dot there already, so that's where I drilled the hole for my switch. Then 48 from the switch to the reducer which is mounted on the aluminum mounting plate in the battery compartment. You can either mount the reducer in the battery compartment, or there's a flat plate on the front suspension tower behind/above the steering box where the factory reducer mounts. I put mine in the battery box to hopefully avoid water/dirt intrusion. 48- and 12- are joined together and go to the Black negative wire with the Yellow Bullet Connector in the battery box. All wires run under the floor mat.
These already had a "light harness" installed and the 12v supply wiring for the kits was part of the bucket harness and went from the dash to the battery area. But even if those had not been there, I would have run new wires the exact same route, through the channels under the floor mat and then out behind the dash area to the lights in the front.
I don't have lights on the rear of either of these carts (just not necessary here).

Where you run them is up to you. Just remember that you have to run power AND ground wires for your lights, you can't ground to the frame on electric carts.


I did similar on a DS we have. Except on that one I "mounted" the reducer to the frame rail with a 4" stainless hose clamp. Ain't got time to do Everything perfect.

See that pic above with the pack positive wires... I connected my fuse holder to the Blue wire with the spade terminal because that's what it's there for.
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Unread 02-16-2020, 11:03 PM   #7
hotwls13
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairtax4me View Post
The two I did on our Precedents, I have 48+ coming from the pack+, to 10a weatherproof fuse holder, then to a switch on the dash, in the factory switch position. There was a little marker dot there already, so that's where I drilled the hole for my switch. Then 48 from the switch to the reducer which is mounted on the aluminum mounting plate in the battery compartment. You can either mount the reducer in the battery compartment, or there's a flat plate on the front suspension tower behind/above the steering box where the factory reducer mounts. I put mine in the battery box to hopefully avoid water/dirt intrusion. 48- and 12- are joined together and go to the Black negative wire with the Yellow Bullet Connector in the battery box. All wires run under the floor mat.
These already had a "light harness" installed and the 12v supply wiring for the kits was part of the bucket harness and went from the dash to the battery area. But even if those had not been there, I would have run new wires the exact same route, through the channels under the floor mat and then out behind the dash area to the lights in the front.
I don't have lights on the rear of either of these carts (just not necessary here).

Where you run them is up to you. Just remember that you have to run power AND ground wires for your lights, you can't ground to the frame on electric carts.


I did similar on a DS we have. Except on that one I "mounted" the reducer to the frame rail with a 4" stainless hose clamp. Ain't got time to do Everything perfect.

See that pic above with the pack positive wires... I connected my fuse holder to the Blue wire with the spade terminal because that's what it's there for.
Ok some questions and observations:

1. My 2008 DS doesnít have channels under the rubber mat. There is a solid aluminum plate covering the whole floor/footwell. I ran the wires for my 48v volt meter under the floor, zip tied it so it wouldnít sag. I imagine I will do the same for the other wires.

2. Iím not sure what/where the yellow bullet connector is for -48. Do u have pics?

3. I donít have that blue connector coming off my +48 pack. Iíll have to add my own connection there.

4. I ordered everything I need (I think). My thinking is to mount the reducer in battery box under seat. That way Iím not running more 48v runs to the front of the cart.

5. I ordered a relay and was thinking of wiring it in following a diagram I got off here.

6. If I was to put in a separate switch on the 48v side, I would want it near the battery box. Then only run 12v up to the dash/new 12v dash switch them out to the lights.

7. By wiring like this, if in the future I decide to add any more 12v accessories, I could just add a fuse box near the new dash switch.

8. Main thing Iím confused about is where to run my -48 to reducer from. Iíve read a yellow/black obc wire?? Bullet connection?? Evidently needs to connect to obc so charging is correct. Just not sure what/where to tap into.

9. Iíll write up my planned wiring diagram when I get a minute and post it.

Thoughts?
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Unread 02-17-2020, 01:56 PM   #8
hawgsalot
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

Wow so mine was a chepo recommended on here a few years ago. It's a four wire for radio, Positive to pack, Negative to pack and yellow to radio positive, and Negative to radio negative. The radio turns off to key but I guess that's separate? Based on this thread is my pack running down because the voltage reducer? Sounds like I need a different reducer with switch?
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Unread 02-17-2020, 03:09 PM   #9
hotwls13
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by hawgsalot View Post
Wow so mine was a chepo recommended on here a few years ago. It's a four wire for radio, Positive to pack, Negative to pack and yellow to radio positive, and Negative to radio negative. The radio turns off to key but I guess that's separate? Based on this thread is my pack running down because the voltage reducer? Sounds like I need a different reducer with switch?
Iím just figuring this all out. But I think u could move your pack negative connection to your obc negative. Add a fuse to your pack positive and you should be good.
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Unread 02-17-2020, 03:43 PM   #10
Goober11
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Default Re: LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by hawgsalot View Post
Wow so mine was a chepo recommended on here a few years ago. It's a four wire for radio, Positive to pack, Negative to pack and yellow to radio positive, and Negative to radio negative. The radio turns off to key but I guess that's separate? Based on this thread is my pack running down because the voltage reducer? Sounds like I need a different reducer with switch?
I should have worded my reply a little different. From what I was told the four wire reducer do draw some current how much I don’t know. I just did not want anything drawing on my pack.

I know guys here have wired the four wire up with a 48V relay. Some one with more knowledge can help you with that.
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