Live axle question

joejoeguns

I recently picked up a G1 with a 340 exciter motor in it. The gentleman that tried to set it up was out of his element.It's all there with a good start,but lets just say the set up leaves a lot to be desired.
It has a live axle in it now but the previous owner tried to run the belt directly to the axle with no secondary.I have the secondary and am planning on setting up a proper jack-shaft and chain drive.
I've already ordered all the parts but I may have messed up,I ordered #60 sprockets and chain.Man #60 is some big old chain.Should I buy smaller chain and sprocket or does any one see a problem with just using the #60. If 60 is felt to be way to big whats a good size to use? I'm going for a mix of power and speed,I'm setting it up at 6.5:1.Thanks for any help.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

1989Marathon

Negligible power loss with bigger chain. A smaller chain that wears will have much greater power loss. A worn chain really robs power.

dylan schumacher

60! In my r1 build I use a 530 size chain

dylan schumacher

I think it's fine

opsled

You said Exciter 340. Are you sure? Yamaha also made the Enticer 340 back in the day. They were different engines and the Exciter 340 is harder to find parts for.

Easiest way to tell is the air shrouds. Exciter 340's were metal. Exciter 340's were plastic. 1976 was the last year of the Exciter 340. and e-start was never an option. The Enticer 340 was made up and into the 90's and e-start was quite common.

opsled

joejoeguns

I would have to say It's a ENticer then,It has factory E-start. I bought new gears in 50 series chain and all my parts came in now I just need to get out into the garage and get to work. The holidays,little kids and cold are slowing me down right now though.I'll make sure I post up pics when I get going on it.

opsled

Good. It's a better engine for your application. A litte less hp than the Exciter 340 but more than enough for a cart. You should be in the 35 to 40hp range with the Enticer. You said you have the secondary. Do you have a pic?

Reason I ask is that a couple of different styles were used with that engine over the years. First style didn't have a jackshaft. The secondary was part of the chaincase reduction drive for the track. They were good and durable but didn't offer much in the way of adjustment other than a spring change. The second style did have a jackshaft and was more tunable but an odd design.

Yamaha sled secondaries are splined to their shafts and those shafts are metric so you can run into issues converting to American dimensioned shafts. There are other compatable options out there that might be easier to build off of.

I could give some direction if you have doubts.

opsled

joejoeguns

I see you've been down this road Opsled. The secondary I have is of the non-adjustable type with the left side chain-case. My first plan was to mount the secondary straight to a jack-shaft, but because of the fixed shaft I felt that would be a bad plan,It would render the secondary non-serviceable.

The new plan is to use the chain-case,but I'm worried about clearance issues(I'll have to see how it lines up). I bored the bottom sprocket to fit the jack-shaft.

There is only about an inch between the swing arm and frame on a G1,also the chain-case is 18 inches tall and I only have 16 to work with under the seat,I'll have to kick it way back to work.

Option 3 is to find a new secondary with a jack-shaft and use a bigger sprocket on the live axle to make up for the gear reduction I'm losing from the chain-case.

I'm open to any other opinions.THANKS.

opsled

OK, That ET (enticer) style chaincase/secondary is what I thought you probably had. They are good and work great in the original application but are limited on what can be done with them in an application such as yours. That same engine was used in an Ovation which had a jackshaft style secondary but the secondary clutch was odd and fit on a tapered spline shaft. This also limits it in a build such as yours.

One that would work great with your engine and is easy to modify for your app is one out of a Phazer. It is of jackshaft style and has a floating fully adjustable, cast aluminum secondary that would match your primary and has the same belt width. The nice thing about it is that the jackshaft mount on the clutch side is a 4 bolt aluminum pillow block with bearing and easy to make frame mounts for. The shaft itself could be turned for a standard sprocket system if you wanted to eliminate the original chaincase and parts are available. There are others that are similar but don't mount with the pillow.

I have a complete setup out. Here are some pics of it.

It could be yours.

opsled

PS, My cell is 262-716-3368

Attached Images

	Phazer drive 001.jpg (163.7 KB, 0 views)
	Phazer drive 002.jpg (146.1 KB, 0 views)
	Phazer drive 003.jpg (129.9 KB, 0 views)
	Phazer drive 004.jpg (148.6 KB, 0 views)

bigkid

Phil, rember the drive wheels on the PZ are a lot smaller (8") than his rubber tires so he may need gear down unless he wants to go 100 mph