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Unread 08-01-2019, 12:10 PM   #1701
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Default Re: RXV vs TXT

RXV


RXV vs TXT





Quote:
Originally Posted by ADSFR075 View Post
I saw a thread on here a couple of months ago describing the differences between the RXV and the TXT. Have a friend trying to decide and wanted to share with them, but I can't find the thread. Can someone tell me the differences between the two models? I have an RXV, so that's the model I'm familiar with. Thanks!!
The older TXTs used a series DC drive system, and the up to 2009s used a SepEx drive. The 2010 to current TXT48 uses a more modern SepEx DC Drive that has better programmability. The RXV uses an AC drive that greatly improves the torque, and the Curtis version from mid-2012 on has the ability to be reprogrammed to perform so much better without spending hundreds for an aftermarket motor or controller.

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Unread 08-07-2019, 06:13 AM   #1702
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Default Re: FANS (for me - not the electronics)

For a couple bucks more I think I'd go with something like this, that not only moves around the already hot air but cools it too. Theres a bunch of different ones out there, you basizally.fill them with ice or water (depending on the unit) and plug them into a cigarette lighter. They work quite well.

I've used a similar model in a tent camping before. Very impressive. If you got an enclosure for your cart (I've seen them for around $50 for a universal one... not a fancy perfect form fitting but gets the job done nicely) it would cool it down pretty well like an air conditioned cabin/tent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...5e9027f0894675
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Unread 08-08-2019, 01:42 PM   #1703
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Default Re: 1999 ezgo dcs motor test

Quote:
Originally Posted by rib33024 View Post
The motor in a dcs cart is marked A1 A2 S1 S2. I have always wondered why.
A = Armature
S = Stator
F = Field

Stator and Field both identify the stationary windings and can be used interchangeably, but the stationary winding in a series motor is typically called Stator and labeled S, while the stationary winding in a sepex (SEParately EXcited) motor is typically called Field and labeled F.

The DCS motor is probably the best known exception. It was EZGO's first sepex drive and I suspect nobody gave much thought to how the motor terminals were labeled and continued to use the same labeling they had always used until it became apparent you cannot tell the difference between a mounted series motor and a DCS (sepex) motor if the label is missing or unreadable.

Starting with the sepex motor used in the PDS, the DCS's replacement, the terminals for the stationary winding terminals are labeled "F" and the studs are smaller diameter then the armature terminal studs, so even if the label is missing you can visually identify a mounted sepex motor by it having two larger studs and two smaller studs while all 4 studs on a series motor are the same size.

As mentioned, this is speculation, but it the best answer I've been able to come up with.
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Unread 08-09-2019, 03:20 PM   #1704
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Default Re: 1998 EZGO Gas TXT Wiring Diagram

I think this is the same as your 1998. I used it for my 2003. (Credit to member Trig.)
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File Type: jpg Gas TXT wiring.jpg (175.7 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 08-12-2019, 05:26 PM   #1705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitaker View Post
Hey gang. I have a 2013 ezgo txt 48v cart. I'm replacing the F&R switch(rocker on the dash) with an F&R switch from a newer cart (F&R rocker that mounts behind the knee). I'm looking at this diagram and was wondering if someone can sorta break it down and walk me through exactly what I need to do. I'm leaving the stock rocker switch and wiring in the dash for now so I'll basically be cutting the wire to the stock switch and running new wire from the new rocker (behind the knee) to where ever it goes. Thanks so much for the help.

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Unread 08-16-2019, 11:31 AM   #1706
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Default Re: A Battery Question

A Battery Question


Quote:
Originally Posted by skyriver View Post
So far I'm not very happy with them, at least compared to Trojans. They've been in the Ellis battery service shop where I purchased them for the last couple of days, but they say they can't find anything wrong with them.

Hydrometer readings are good and they charge up well, but when the surface charge is gone they're down to 50.45 on the volt meter. 50.45 divided by 8 is 6.3062 so when compared the Trojan charge scale of 6.37 they're only holding a 90% charge, after paying $1300 for them I expected better.

They're telling me that they are at 100% charge and I'm not happy. A good strong 48 volt pack would settle at 51 volts. I also purchased 8 CR-235's from them for my other cart about the same time and they're good holding at 51 volts.
At-rest voltage for 100% SoC depends on the manufacturer of the battery and the SoC voltages are composite averages of the models within each brand, so they are approximate rather than specific.
Crown = 50.40V
Trojan = 50.93V
US Battery = 51.29V

Attached are SoC charts I've put together for Crown, Trojan and US Battery from the data I've been able to find for them.

Also attached is the source documents the Crown SoC chart is based on. As you can see, some interpolation had to be used.
The source documents for Trojan and US Battery were already delineated in 10% increments.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Crown SoC chart.jpg (208.1 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg SoC vs Voltage - Trojan Battery.JPG (56.9 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg USB SoC 36-42-48V.jpg (176.8 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Crown SoC.jpg (110.5 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Crown SG.jpg (40.4 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 08-24-2019, 12:40 PM   #1707
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Default Re: EZGOersion TXT DCS F&R Conv

EZGOersion TXT DCS F&R Conv




These may be helpful.
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Unread 08-25-2019, 06:13 PM   #1708
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Unread 08-25-2019, 09:43 PM   #1709
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Unread 08-27-2019, 01:00 AM   #1710
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Default Re: 6A charger - sufficient?

6A charger - sufficient?



Not at all, terrible for battery life. The real charger causes mixing in the battery. The electrolyte is part water & part acid. Water's specific gravity (referred to as SG here forward) is loosely 1.0, battery acid is higher. The "whole mix" evens out about at 1.22 SG. Without proper mixing, the heavier acid will end up at the bottom, while the lighter water will end up at the top. (Referred to as stratification). You might think "well, it should get mixed up during use", but the plates in the battery can't wait, nor expect that. To do their job, they have to see a homologous mix whenever they are charged or discharged. A little baby charger can't make that mix happen. Then there is the factor of the cheapo charger crapping out every 6 months. If you buy a cheapo charger every year or less, it won't take long before the good charger was the better deal. Maybe if your planning on death during the next year or 2, it's the better deal? And the poor china quality with its garage fire risks. Those crappers are the hallmark of shady golf cart flippers who don't care what happens as soon as it's out of their sight.
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