New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

Thanks in advance for any help and guidance. When i got My 1983 G1A3 it had a rusty orange cover coil that did not fit the original G1 location for coil. I got my G1 with lots of wiring issues. Cut wires, splices, etc etc. With help from AGELE55 i have my starter generator turning over in forward and reverse with ignition without fail. I'm now trying to get my plug to fire. i ordered a new coil as i knew the old one was bad. For the new one, I don't think i have my ground wire correct. It is not currently connected to the coil. I'm wondering if i'm supposed to run a jumper from the coil mounting bolt to the motor block ground bold with ring connector seen in picture.

Based upon searches i see some other test(s) i need to try to figure out how to do

some tests i did last night

Scale at 200 on meter
Ohms from orange wire at CDI to the orange wire tie in spot that goes to coil = 0.3
Ohms from orange wire to metal coil connector on coil = 0.4
ohms at Black ground at chassis on passenger fender behind battery to the bolt in picture that goes into motor block = 0.8

Last night i tried to see spark at plug visually and never saw a spark at plug. I called myself measuring voltage at orange wire going into coil and i got like negative volts????
Playing with jumper wire on ground at one point when i pushed pedal to turn it over i was shocked a few times when i pushed pedal in. I think that is a good thing. lol

Re: New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

Back again…lol.
I’m sure you know this, but the spark plug threads/ body has to be grounded to produce a spark. :thumbup:

I’ll attach a pic of my coil. Yes the orange wire is a straight shot to the CDI and the black wire is a ground. Not sure where the other end of the black is, but you can check it for ohms to ground to make sure it’s ok. It attaches by an eyelet lug to the coil.

Re: New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

for sure back again, lol. One step at a time for me. If i understood your directions on testing the switch wires here are my findings.
Ohm test from pedal switch output wires that goes to the CDI box connectors
Black = 0.3
black / white = 2.3

wires going straight to pedal

pedal not pushed
ohms did not register at any combination of touching wires (did not expect them too)

with pedal pushed
Red and red /w = 0.3
black and black / w stripe = nothing

Re: New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

did i test these right?

Re: New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

Ummm… not sure. Lol. I don’t quite understand where you had your meter leads.
In short, you’re just making sure the B/W wire is not shorted to ground while trying to start the cart.
Unplug the ignition, pedal, and CDI. Check the B/W wire ( 200 ohm scale) with one lead in the end of the wire and the other lead on the negative battery lead. You should get no reading. I highlighted the wire on a schematic for you.

Also - I attached a pic of my coil for reference.
Make sure your spark plug is well grounded when looking for spark.
I’m traveling to visit relatives today, so may be out of touch a while. Sorry.

Re: New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

Thanks and enjoy your visit.

The test listed aboive where i got 2.3 ohms is where I tested the black and white stripe wire with one lead in the end of the black / white stripe wire at the pedal switch and the other lead was in the end of it (the black white stripe wire ) that goes into the CDI box.

I will test the black white stripe wire to the negative battery as you indicate above asa possible.

For sure your picture helps. I need to run a ring connected grounding wire to the outside of my coil as your picture shows. I will connect it to the screw that is close that goes into the motor black. I think i see a ring connector on that bolt in your pic, but its sort of cut off at the bottom

Re: New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

The black wire connected to the coil screw with the ring eyelet goes to a single pin plug at the very edge of my pic. That single pin plug is to the black wire, which goes to ground…someplace.

G1’s are a weird beast, where the negative battery cable is not connected to the frame. So be sure to ring that black wire from the coil end back to the negative battery cable.

Re: New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

Thanks and new update below

I have unplugged the black white stripe wire from everything and i have tested ohms at the 200 range as you instructed. One probe on b/w wire and other probe at negative battery terminal. I got no readings. I think that is good since you said i should not.

I have also attached a ring connector with jumper to the frame of the coil and attached the other end of wire on ring connector and attached to the bolt that one black wire that is seen in the previous picture i posted. When testing ohms from the frame of coil back to the negative battery post i am getting 0.3 ohms. I put one probe on the frame and also both jumper wire connections and the other probe on the negative battery terminal. So this leads me to believe i have it grounded correctly now.

I had to get back to work so i will test for spark tonight.

Re: New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

As an update; I finally have fire and after squirting premix gas straight into plug hole, engine runs very strong. Not very funny then but very funny now is how the cart took off instantly like a rocket. I knew it was direct drive but it had not been moving while it was turning over so i figured the belt was wore or clutch needed hep.

The problem with the firing was the previous owner had it grounding to the screw going into the motor which was grounding frame. If i touched meter probe to to incoming positive at the ignition and touched the black lead to either pedal and or other things it registered 12 volts just like i had touched it to the negative battery terminal. Once i hooked ground from coil straight into the black harness lead, presto. Spark plug fired great.
Again, Thanks to AGELE55 for his great help and knowledge.

I was so eager last night i pulled carb and had it perfectly clean and ready to go back together and i lost the small internal jet that screws into top side of stem inside carb. Bummer, i really wanted to keep the original carb on there. I know the china ones are cheap but i wanted the Mikuni

Re: New G1 Ignition Coil Ground question
 

i think there was 2 things that made this 1983 G1 "140" compression machine get parked forever and left for dead. 1st was the improper grounding and 2nd and maybe more important was the 12 volts that registered at the ignition. It was 12 volts but when trying to activate anything, voltage dropped terrible. It was very misleading. AGELE55 taught me how to measure ohms and the original main hot hire was bad. Ran new hot hire to ignition and all "motor not turning over" issues went away.